Couldn't find a guide for rear door window replacement on wagon. maybe it is obvious, but figured i would add a how-to, cuz it wasn't for me.

tools needed: drill, t25 torx, small-flat screwdriver, tape, rivet gun OR two small bolts with nuts

Remove:

1. roll window down 2/5ths of the way
2. remove door panel (one 1 cm square flush plastic clip by inside door handle and one t25 bolt, multiple push pins around outside of panel) pull panel and disconnect 2 wire connectors as well as handle-cable (< wiggle inside handle while just pulling clip away from panel)
3. remove all rubber seals, careful not to bend the ones on the bottom. pull them all straight up little by little
4. tear or cut the foam sound barrier near handle. it is glued to door frame, but in my case the glue was easy to pull away. you will have to cut it in half vertically near the metal support.
5. remove the plastic molding from inside the window frame towards rear of wagon. (one push pin near top of panel on inside and one t25 torx on door frame below latch)
6. drill out the two rivets from where metal base attaches to regulator. (these rivets are probably part steel and take some time)
7. try to make sure there is no glass in the regulator where it winds the cable. there was some waxy grease on the cable which probably should have been supplemented while you have it off, but not sure what it is, graphite might work too, but didn't have any.

replace:

1. with door open from the inside, turn new glass 90 degrees towards front of car, so that metal base is towards rear of car.
2. slowly lower window down so that metal base is outside and below regulator
3. rotate window to correct orientation making sure to slide the corners into the grooves of the door (if you try doing this without moving the small plastic molding it is impossible, but actually quite easy with that extra 2 inches of clearance)
4. pull it up and set metal base on ledge of regulator trying to center it in frame.
5. attach with rivet gun or 2 small bolts. (for rivet gun i put handle straight up and just pressed against the door, as there was no room to get fingers around entire handle while maintaining straight rivet through holes.
6. reverse steps in remove. (as sanity/alignment-check, before replacing sound foam and door panel, you can set door panel next to door and plug in the connector and give it a test run, up and down). some of the glue was still tacky for the sound foam and i used tape to patch the tear down the middle. Can't even hear the broken glass (that escaped the vacuum) bouncing around in bottom of door LOL



from inside door frame this is the bottom of the molding that has single bolt at bottom, below latch. bolt goes in from door jam side of frame.





top part of plastic molding with push pin removed.

direction glass slides down into door. this is as far as i removed the foam, then i just folded it back to remove and reinstall the rivets. you can see how far the window was rolled down to access regulator, which worked perfectly

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no shame in using tape here, no one will know