I have a 2005 Volvo XC70 and the key won't turn in the ignition to start the car.
The key slips in/out of the switch, but won't turn in any direction.
This situation happened only once before 2 months ago.
The keys are original which came w. the car, plus 2 remotes.
I'd appreciate any suggestions from the volvo community.
I was able to wiggle the steering column left & right while trying to engage the key & after 3-5 minutes was eventually successful.
I tried tonight & wasn't lucky. This scenario is infrequent, but critical to operate
The key is being blocked somehow by the internal tumblers.
I read on another forum about using WD-40 lubricant, but don't believe that's the (permanent) solution.
Please reply with any suggestions. The car's in my daughter's driveway in town.
Thanks, Phil C:239-431-6660 EST

 

I don't know about the newer Volvo's but the 90 models have an ignition lock cable on them that goes down to the shifter. When the switch at the shifter fails, it locks up the ignition. Try bumping the shifter handle to see if that helps, if so, you may have to get that switch fixed. I never had mine fixed, just rigged to work. All if my defective ones have a small wooden shim in them.

 

Thanks for the advice. I contacted a sr. volvo technician & he said its probably the steering column lock. He's done several repairs w. this symptom. Column Lock unit cost: $381/2 Hours Labor @ $135/Hour (Dealer rate) = $651 Total.
The column bolt heads are designed to shear off upon removal. The bolt shafts have to be extracted, battery disconnected 1st to disarm steering wheel airbag,
etc. If I wasn't recuperating from multiple orthopedic surgeries sustained, I'd repair this issue myself. I also asked if this was a Volvo service recall & he said
no. I recently purchased this car & gave it a solid tune-up w. all fluids changed/
flushed. Besides replacing the front rotors/pads & front resonator/intermediate
pipe/muffler, this is the only serious issue encountered & hope it's the last.

 

My wife's 2007 XC90 had this problem that the key would not turn past Position I. I seem to have fixed it. I loosened the steel plate on the bottom of the lock and this freed a metal fragment which breaks in the bottom of the lock cylinder assembly. I did remove the chip with a wire, but it may be sufficient only to loosen the plate and let the chip fall

First remove the plastic shroud covering the steering column and then look below the steering column at the bottom of the lock assembly. I will add some more details from with links.

 

Go to the post "autopsy of a lock" in the thread http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...ic.php?t=13514 and you will see the part that breaks. I used this info to get some understanding of how the lock works, and I used this to formulate a plan which did produce a working lock.

I did this with the lock in place on the steering column. First I removed the so called relocker pin (spring loaded) behind the small metal cap, but this did not free the lock and I later decided this was not the problem. So I don't recommend this.

I drilled into the soft pot metal just off the rearward end of the steel plate and pried it loose. It will not come free so just pry until it gets loose. When I did this the lock became free to turn and the car would start and run. I did pry until I got enough of a gap (maybe 1/4") so I could look into the space and I saw the chip lying on the underside of the steel plate and I hooked it out with a wire.

More later.

 

I wrote all this up with links in volvoforums.org.uk/ in the XC90 section. It's on page 13 "ignition switch won't go past position I. Go the end of this thread and work back.

View the video on how to change the lock cylinder. You will not be doing this but it will familiarize you with the details of the lock.

In the case of my wife's XC90 the key would turn to Position I, but no further. So it would release the column lock which is designed to prevent theft. If yours will not turn to Position I, you might have a failure in the mechanism which locks the steering column. In my case the steering wheel was unlocked but the key would not advance to the run position (II) or the start position (III). I believe this was due to this metal chip jamming the works.

If all you want to do is to make the vehicle driveable to get it to the dealer, you can remove the electrical portion of the ignition switch from the left end by removing the two torx screws. The ignition switch assembly will come off and you can insert a screw driver in the end and turn it to the start position. The key with its coded RFID chip must be in the ignition lock but it can even be in position I and the imobilizer will be satisfied.

Addition in editing: The ignition switch must be in position I or higher for the steering column lock to be released.

 

Here is the video of the professional locksmith taking apart the Volvo ignition lock.


The locksmith states that the fault in the original part was the failure of a "clutch" in the lock mechanism, but at the risk of disputing a professional opinion I think this may be incorrect. I think these locks are being jammed by the broken tab identified by poster "mom" on the Mathew's Volvo site discussion referred to above.

 

At one point I decided to just get my wife's 2007 XC90 started to drive over to the dealer and have them replace the ignition lock. I removed the electrical part of the ignition switch (actually this is the switch and is on the left side) from the ignition lock by removal of two torx screws. Then I put the key in the lock on the right side and turned it to position I, which was as far as it would go. Then I used a screwdriver in the ignition switch and turned it to position III which started the car. It springs back to position II, the run position.

But then I found the gear shift would not move out of Park. To allow this I unplugged the cable from the shifter at the ignition lock and with my thumb or a finger I pushed the cable into the flex tubing which allowed shifting out of Park. This is normally accomplished by turning the key into Position II, but as stated Position I was as far as the key would go.

At this point I could have just driven the car to the dealer, but I decided to see if I could get the lock to work and as I said above did so by loosening the steel plate on the bottom of the lock. This freed the mechanism inside and allowed the key to turn the full range.

I removed the broken tab, put the ignition switch back on the lock, and tapped the plate to secure it. The XC90 has worked properly since.

However, the case of the original poster here is that the key will not advance from position 0. This may be the same fault as I had or may be a fault in the mechanism which locks the steering wheel when the key is in position 0 or is removed.

 

Update:
As a precaution to repairing the existing unit, I bought a new ignition switch assembly/lock housing kit from Tasca.com in Warwick, RI. Price $209 & mailing $221. I was quoted 8 days to SW FL (5 days-RI/3 days-FL). This is the identical oem part that ALL Volvo dealers order from Europe. I was quoted $381. part only from my local dealer ($160 savings). I tried working the gear shift, trying to turn the steering wheel left & right, while attempting to turn the ignition key. No success. My locked in position 0 key issue appears to be different than the other common ones. However, I've been working with & tried James G's advice; using a dremel tool & grinding the crimps on the rectangular plate on the underside, loosing the metal plate (shown in the U-Tube video), prying it slightly outward, taking a firm wire, bent at narrow 90 degree wire & attempting to clear a possible broken tab (Anatomy of a lock description). At first, the plate lifting alone allowed the ignition key to turn freely. I turned the key back & forth, plus removing & reinserting the key multiple times. Then, I tapped the plate inward slightly & the key wouldn't turn again. So, I pried the plate downward slightly again & the key worked.
I did notice that the plate movement also has an inverse relationship with the key turning resistance. The lower the plate is positioned, the harder it becomes to turn the key forward to any I,II,III position. By tapping or loosing the plate I can free the ignition key, if it freezes up again. I reassembled the upper & lower steering column shrouds & reset the gear shift cable lock back to its original position in the lock assembly housing. I believe my issue is two-fold; sticking tumblers AND an unknown, direct interaction with the lower plate. Until the new part arrives, I will leave the old part in place & can drive the car in the meantime. I will slot the (2) shear-head bolts with a dremel grinding wheel bit, for screwdriver access removal for the new component.
I'll be spraying some WD-40 lubricant directly into ignition switch key slot & use the key back & forth to spread the oil throughout the mechanism. If anyone will be replacing their ignition switch assembly, DO NOT attempt to remove the securing bolts with a wrench. They are intentionally designed to break-off & will require a easy-out extractor for removing the now recessed threaded studs. Dealer service technicians grind & slot the bolt heads for easy removal & reinsertion. I'll post again, once I've removed the old & installed the new. Also, as a precaution, ALWAYS disconnect the battery terminals BEFORE unplugging any wire connectors & part removal. Although only the negative terminal is required, I disconnect both. Plus, while they're off, I use a terminal post cleaner, change out the red (pos) & green (neg) pole terminals, add red anti-oxidizing gel & check the (6) wet cells & add distilled water to each, to the required level, if necessary. Thanks, Phil

 

I don't recommend using WD40 in the key hole because WD40 can damage some kinds of plastic parts. You risk damage to the immobilizer antenna unit on the right side and the ignition switch on the left side.

If you decide to use it, use it very sparingly.

 

Update:

I was able to remove the (2) shear-head bolts securing the ignition assembly/lock housing.
I used a dremel tool with a grinder wheel tip to slot the dome-shaped bolt heads. The right side came out relatively easy. The left side wouldn’t. I also realized that I had to re-insert the right side bolt hand-tight, so the ignition assembly would be level be level again. I had to ask a neighbor with far greater strength to free the left side. When removing, it’s also best to tap the side of the bolts with a nail punch or medium/large flat tip screwdriver. This helps break the bond & looses the threads held by the factory applied, lock-tight adhesive.

I bought replacement hexagonal-head, metric bolts at a specialty automotive parts store in town. The specs are (Diameter/Thread Pitch/Length/Hardness): 8 / 1.25 / 16 / 10.9
If I ever have to remove the bolts again, they will remove freely. There will be lock-tight residue remaining on the inside threads. Most of the residue can be removed by inserting & removing the bolt. Then, carefully brushing off the bolt threads.

The new lock arrived within (5) days from Tasca.com, Cranston, RI. The lock tumblers were cut correctly & all my original keys worked. However, when reinstalling the plastic, electric module on the left side (opposite the ignition key), the (2) screw holes had been drilled at the factory, but neither were threaded! I called Tasca. They’re overnight mailing the replacement part on Monday.

 

Seems I might have the same problem with my 2004 XC70. How did they know which way to key the lock? I am thinking about buying one from them myself. Slim

 

Slim, when you talk to Tasca, they need the car's Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) which identifies all the key components & is specific to your car only. Then, they request the lock cut from Belgium/Sweden or elsewhere in Europe to cut the ignition lock to your particular car. Remember, the key has a computer chip inside which corresponds to the ignition assembly unit. The turn around was so fast, i believe they cut the key in RI. I had multiple orthopedic surgeries & had to remove/install the assembly with only 1 arm, the other was in a flex cast for rotator cup/tendon/socket surgery. It's worth spending the $221 w/mailing cost. Just don't make the mistake I did. The assembly arrives w. the 2 left side screw holes unthreaded. Their sales staff don't understand mechanics & I thought it was an error. Its not-its intentional. You reuse the same old lock screws & they are SELF-THREADING. But don't use the new supplied Shear-Headed bolts. Buy 2 metric bolts from a European/Quality American specialty hardware supply store. Use the specifications I supplied in the previous email. When installing these, tighten them equally-back & forth to both bolts, so it seats level. This was a poor design by Volvo & should've been a factory recall. If anyone is going to steal this model car, they'll do it w/out removing these shear-head bolts. Remember the gear shift cable lock on the right side, must be removed & be in a certain key lock position to disengage the cable. I can't remember which position, probably "0", not "1" or "2". After repairing, I've never had a problem since. An internal tumbler/lock tab breaks off & blocks the key from turning in any position. I didn't rebuild my old one, but saved it in case the new one ever fails as a back-up system piece. Good Luck, Phil

 

I really appreciate the come back Phil. This is the first time that I have had to work on the Volvo so trying to start finding my way around can be a little daunting. Called Tasca this morning and they sounded knowledgeable and helpful. Did you buy self tapping screws or just run the new ones in to cut the threads? I can't believe that the pot metal that the assembly is made of can be the tough. Again thanks so much for the help. Slim

 

Phil, I just re-read your reply and it appears like your talking about the thread for the screws to hold the actual ignition switch on. Anyways it will be here next week and I will check it out. Slim

 

The shear screws should be a recall? Why is that? Recalls are for safety related defects. The sheer screws have nothing to do with safety. The are for vehicle security and designed that way intentionally. Good luck stealing the car without taking the column lock out (good luck stealing it anyway).

 

Just to clarify. Nothing in the lock cylinder has to deal with the RF-ID chip inside the key. That is the antenna ring what recieves that info,not the column lock.

Shear screws are made that way. They break the heads off when you tighten them down.

 

1. You reuse the self-threaded smaller screws on the left dash side when the new ignition lock assembly arrives. It doesn't arrive w. any. It's soft pot-metal & re-threads easily.
2. The top mounted shear-head bolts are not the recall item mentioned. I was referring to the inanition lock assembly itself. A tab breaks off inside & impedes the tumblers & key. I believe its a poor design as it will eventually happen to every XC70, regardless of year manufactured & its not a fun project to fix in 30 minutes. You have to slot the bolts w. a dremel tool to make access for a large straight edge screwdriver. Remember to adjust the steering wheel telescopics to bring the wheel (shaft) outward for more room to work with.
3. I knew the key has a micro chip in it, but wasn't certain where the corresponding receiver chip was located. Others have corrected my error.
The point is its a safety feature, but expensive to replace, only through a Volvo dealer as they use the VIN & specific software module to match you model/year
4. Hopefully, you'll be able to install the unit in less time than It took me. It was a trial & error approach, as these are typically repaired at the dealer for $750+.
5. I replaced my shear-head bolts w. quality european matched specs as listed below. If I ever have to take the ignition switch assembly out again, I'll never have the headaches of removing those lock-tite threaded bolts again.
That's your choice. I always look at the smartest, not hardest way to accomplish a mechanical repair or re-repair.
6. You will need to disconnect the gear shift cable lock on the right steering wheel side. I disengages easily, once you have the key in the correct position, I believe its the "0" position (as you slip the key into the lock).
Reattaching is just as simple. This cable immobilizes the gears when off & in park position.
You'll do fine when the part arrives. Just refer to all of the forum's notes.
PC

 

Me I am not going to use hex head; I don't think. I got both, hex and socket head. That might slow the crooks down if they got to all the trouble to remove the plastic and try to steal the ignition unit. Again thanks everyone for the help. I will let you know when it is all done. Slim

 

Got the assy in and it was perfect. Of course now that I have the old one out and jiggled it around, the broken piece is out of the way and it works fine. I think I will probably do a minor dissection to remove the piece and save it for a spare. Just in case it breaks some where a lot less closer to home.

A couple of notes: On the turn signal side on my 2004 the connector is attached to a small bracket. You disconnect the plug and it was still in the way for the dremel. If you lift up on the front, away from the steering wheel the little tab will pop out and it will slide off. Also the antenna that takes the info from the key on the washer/wiper side can be a little hard to take off. It only has the one tab and it is fragile so be careful.

What I wasn't warned about was that when I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery that I would loose a bunch of my functions . My alarm doesn't work, doors won't lock from the driver's side, and remote won't unlock it. Probably some other things. Any suggestions?
Slim