1. The broken internal tab doesn't always fall out of the way on every car. I had to further disassemble the ignition lock assembly before I could get the key to turn the tumblers.
2. You use the telescopic steering column feature, unlock the lever on the left/
hand side to allow the column to pull forward for greater access with the dremel tool, impact wrench if necessary, power screw driller/driver, etc.
3. You disconnect the negative terminal to avoid electrical shortages/spikes to the system before starting this project.
4. I disconnected both the left & right hand side components; l/side had 2 pot metal screws (you save for the new unit) & 1 or 2 plug connectors. The r/side has the gear shift lock cable that must be detached via method explained. Then you can move the gear shift lever from Park to Neutral or Drive positions.
5. I made the mistake, having on my other 03(Not 05) instrumentation cluster removal, of driving the car w. the cluster out to go to a physical therapy appt.
The car can't be driven, otherwise it sends error signals to all instrument gauges & I had to have a Midas friend (highly mechanical experienced) use his Snap-On Diagnostic Code center used to reset them all. i screwed up.
6. I recommend NOT using the supplied new break-away torn bolts. As mentioned, I used the hex head replacement bolts. I never want to have to go through this nightmare of repairing it again. If I need to re-access this component, I can just unscrew them normally & remove/adjust the parts accordingly.
7. I believe you will need to pay an independent repair shop (Not Dealer) that has the diagnostic Code software for the XC70. My midas shop does in Naples, FL. I didn't have that issue you're referenced. This cost S/Be +/_ $60-$75 at the Independent repair shop. You may also need a firmware update that is usually Volvo supplied. There should be a way to reset your instrumentation cluster back to default settings. Make some phone calls to I/shops & Dealer service Center first. Phil

 

I was looking around the forum and found a post that talked about a programming "thing"; turning the ignition on 5 times. Well, needless to say I tried that before calling on the phone to my local independent mechanic and it worked. On the fifth time I went a head and started the car and everything worked. The alarm door locks and all the messages. Pretty cool. Slim

 

Slim, I'm glad everything worked out correctly. Your issue & solution will help other XC70 owners who need to replace their ignition switch assembly in the future. The 2 major issues I encountered were the ignition switch & the instrumentation cluster circuit board failure. I suspect that will be your next major challenged faced. I have 135K on mine. The circuit board has bad soldering connections & eventually fails, triggering all gages to turn on & off repeatedly. The 3rd major fault is the most expensive, the AW automatic transmission solenoid; causing hard shifting between some to all gears. I replaced all the engine/transmission mounts at 125K; they were worn out due to the vehicle's inherent weight. I outsourced the solenoid work & spent $1450. Ironically, the transmission had been rebuilt, but not the electronic solenoid body/components. This required another, solenoid housing that was fabricated at a specialty shop. Apparently, the oem AW housing is too small & impedes it from operating correctly. I've researched & noticed this fault is most common on the 2001-04 years. Our 2005 model doesn't exhibit this symptom. Perhaps it was corrected by that year's release. For long distance trips/vacations, I believe its one of the best vehicles to own. The comfort, handling, console controls, safety, rear deck luggage space & roof, 5p seating & gas mileage, combined make this a dream to use. Utilizing the cruise control +/- buttons only, on the highway I get 28.5mph which is excellent for a 4,500 lb vehicle. Also, its designed to use regular gas, not high test. However, all gas sold (except marine & aviation) has 10% ethanol (corn) which, over time will create sediment in the fuel injection system, engine & gas tank. Once per year, I use SeaFoam additive (16 oz), which burns out the buildup. Divided equally into 5.3 oz to the engine crankcase, the intake manifold & gas tank. The intake is not poured into, rather sucked in or siphoned by the vacuum hose while the car is idling. Read the instructions on the can & it'll be easily understood. Best regards, Phil

 

hello

 

Hi, my first post here, thanks to everyone for their advice and experiences. Having just spent the best part of a Sunday sorting my ignition lock problem I thought I would share mine.
My lock intermittently refused to move from position O, so I used an aeorsol lock lube spray to "free things up". This turned my intermittent fault into a permanent one!
I was not prepared to wait/pay for a replacement part, so tackled the job myself.
Once the lock was removed (you know how tough this is), I stripped it down as per the youtube clip posted previously. Further inspection revealed two of the guide tabs broken from the steering lock actuator "cage" (as described by jamesg).
Aha! says I, problem found, so set about a repair. One tab was replaced with a 2mm steel dowel pin, bonded in place with Loctite 648. I could not use a dowel for straight replacement of the second tab, so drilled the "cage" and the broken tab for another 2mm pin and bonded the assembly with 648. This made a nice repair. The cage tracked smooth and square, so I reassembled the lock (without the snapring) to test. FAIL!
The key would still not move from O. The broken tabs had not indeed been the cause.
I shifted my focus to the lock barrel itself, and found that the key would not rotate the barrel even when removed from the lock assembly.
Disassembly of the lock barrel showed that the first two tumblers were not retracting sufficiently to allow the barrel to turn. On inspection I found that the tumbler slides were worn by the key to such an extent that they would not retract fully.
I removed the offending slides, and "relieved" the top edge until they were flush with the barrel OD with the key inserted, effectively "recoding" the lock.
Once reassembled the lock worked perfectly, and I now know my lock "code", having recorded the numbers on the slides, so I could order new to return the lock to original condition.
It sounds straight forward writing it here, but this job used every trick and piece of experience I have (former dealer tech, now licensed aircraft engineer), and took the best part of 8 hours. I would say that it is probably not cost effective, but if you have a spare Sunday and a good shop at home you can fix it.
Good luck!

 

I have wondered how the lock could work with the aligning tabs broken off. Do you have any insight into this?

 

As far as I could see, the broken guide tabs could only jam the lock if they are trapped in the bottom of the assembly. I found two of the three tabs broken. The lock will still function with broken guide tabs removed, but will run misaligned. This could lead to further jamming, or higher effort required to actuate the mechanism, meaning more wear, leading to a greater likelyhood of a jam..... On the other hand it could go on for years.

I came up with a good repair for my actuator cage, which I suspect will last longer than the original pot-metal part. The key tumbler was a "fix" or a field repair, which got me out of a "jam" , but not something you would sell to a customer.

Still, all good info for guys who like to keep their own machine on the road without paying dealer money, or a good way to get home if you are stuck in Hicksville

 

My wife has a 2005 Volvo XC90, the key would not move past the 1 spot. Research showed the key cylinder was bad. I purchased one off EBAY and when it came in, I installed it with the Antenna Section and the Ignition Switch. I then split the key and put the original key on the new key insert and installed the original antenna and key switch. Everything works but it will not start. Tried disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it with no luck. Is there a protective mechanism that is blocking me from starting the car and can I do anything to reset it? Can I try a hard reset where I disconnect the battery and touch the leads together to clear this???

Thanks and I need HELP!!!!

 

It is not totally clear to me what you replaced. Did you replace the antenna unit as well as the lock cylinder? If you replaced the antenna unit, I think the vehicle electronics will have to be reprogrammed by the dealer to accept the new key and antenna.


If you replaced the lock cylinder, then the old keys would not work in the new cylinder, and you are using the new key(s). So you will need to use the old key to open the mechanical lock on the driver side door and to lock/unlock the glove box.


I assume you replaced the entire ignition lock assembly, not just the lock cylinder, right?


How many keys came with the new ignition lock assembly?


It's time to have it towed to the dealer. I think they can straighten it out. In the car place all the original parts that you removed so they can see exactly what was replaced.

 

From the sounds of it you swapped the metal key but not the green RFID chip. Its about 1/4 inch long and about 3/16th wide cylinder shaped green glass object inside the head of your original key. You need that RFID chip in the head of the new key plastic to get it to read and start the car.

 

A used key won't work. So whatever money you saved putting in a used column lock, which is a gamble because they fail all the time anyway, will be needed to have that key programmed to the car. And now you'll have a different ignition key and door key.

 

He may be able to start the car by holding the old key with original RFID chip next to the key used to turn the lock. I don't know if the engine will continue to run if the key is not held there. This could be a means of operating the vehicle, at least well enough to use it for a while or to get it to the dealer. He could tape an old key to the plastic near the key lock, but then this would make the car easier to steal. And if it is necessary for the proper RFID chip to be continually held close to the antenna, then if it would become detached, the engine would immediately stop. This would be a serious safety hazzard.

 

As far as the keys go, I installed the new Key Tumbler Cylinder with the Original Antenna System over Key Insert and the Original Ignition Switch. I used the new Key portion of the key tumbler and the Original rear part of the key. That should have had all the electrical changed to the original with only the key tumbler system changed. Is there a security portion in the key insert section of the keyed remote or in the cylinder tumbler section on a 2005 Volvo XC90?

 

As I said, you cannot use a used key. The key is programmed to another car. If you use a used column lock and a used key, you can take the money you saved to tow it to the dealer for programming.

Or return it, if possible, and buy a new one that works with your existing keys.

 

I think (but do not know for sure) that the RFID chip is emplaced in the mechanical key part. So if I understand what you did, then the original RFID chip is not in the part of the remote opening assembly you attached the new key to.


Have you tried holding an old key near the lock assembly while you attempt to start it?

 

I would also get a spare key made. If you lose that one, there is no way to get a new one made because the key code associated with your VIN will be for the doors only.

 

What's going on with this? Have you tried starting with an old key held next to the antenna? I suppose it could be the case that the antenna requires the chip in the key to be close to the center of the antenna, but it ought to be possible to get nearly to that state by holding a key next to the antenna.

 

Ok. Im going to break this down.
You HAVE TO HAVE THE ORIGINAL KEY RFID CHIP. It is in the head of the KIR (key integrated remote). You cannot have two RFID chips from two different cars near the Antenna because it will not read the correct RFID chip,the two will conflict with each other and the antenna cannot read two different codes.

Inside the head of the KIR where the metal key rotates is a spot where the RFID chip is glued in. It is not where the remote PCB is. That is only for the remote portion,such as the door lock and unlock function. You have to seperate the head of the key,inside of it is the RFID chip. Its in a green glass tube that is easy to break. I had a couple here at work,but they grew legs.

It is a pain in the *** to seperate the two halfs. It requires alot of heat without melting the plastic. A heat gun (not a hair dryer) and some welding gloves are required.

Any questions,let me know. I have this process down to about 20 minutes when I fix broken keys that no longer have spring to them.

 

Thanks for the information on the problem of interference when two different RFID chips are close to the antenna.

 

Ordered the correct key cylinder for my car as I have been hard headed and spent more in rental cars and tools and just should have had it done at Volvo. A quick question, if the stop pin falls out of the ignition key system, what is the negative affect of that?

Todd