Hi everyone, first post here. I own an '06 S40 T5 and considered posting this in the S40 category, but I think this issue overlaps for most every Volvo (and just about every vehicle ever serviced). It's been a wonderful vehicle with very few issues; typically the service (under warranty) has been excellent with only minor complaints.

Recently a friend of mine, who works on his own vehicles as a hobby, decided to check the torque on my wheels. Each wheel's lugnuts were over-torqued. Waaaay over-torqued.

Intuitively we came to the conclusion that it isn't something that's going to be checked and set to specification by the mechanics working on the vehicles (for reference the recommendation for the S40 T5 is ~68 ft-lbs I believe). Why? That's an extra opinion I'm trying to get from anyone here with similar experience.

Our theory is: 1. Wheels aren't hand tightened (duh) since it takes too much time per vehicle. 2. The mechanics' biggest concern is making sure the wheel doesn't "fall off" on the road.

The problem with over-torquing would be warping the rotors. Not the biggest issue in the world, but that's an expensive replacement (which would be a clever tactic for future sales of rotors).

So is this really an "issue" or "problem" or simply a careless nuisance? Am I being overly cautious or paranoid? Thanks!

 

Every time I remove and install a wheel I torque then to 105 FTLB.
On alot of the cars it is to much but I have been doing that for years and never had problems with warped rotors from doing it.

IMO 65 is not enough. I can use my 3/8 battery impact and remove the lugs very easy when set to 65.

Yes alot of tech's IMO do it so the wheels will not come loose.

 

It's REALLY hard to warp rotors by overtorquing wheel nuts. Drums yes, but not discs. The flange and the general shape of discs makes it harder.
I had a Nissan which was only a 4 stud wheel and had big studs, torque was something like 100 ft/lbs on that.
I have never had any issues with torquing my wheels to "reasonably firm" with a wheel brace and all the wheels I put on at work, I only ever use the lowest setting on the rattle gun. I would guess that is around 70 ft/lbs.
I also spin the nuts on till they just bottom and diagonally tighten.
One idiot I work with cranks it up to max and sits there for 5 mins letting the gun bash away at the nuts...... I've actually seen him partially strip axle U bolts with the rattle gun.

Regards, Andrew.

 

Wow.

These replies are much appreciated. Disc versus drums makes sense. About the only other thing I would have to clarify is why would the recommended specs be "only" 68 ft lbs?

I'm sure part of that is a conservative enough number and somewhat of a liability for the company.

However, I did once get a flat on this vehicle and used the included lugnut wrench/crowbar in an attempt to put on the spare. No go. Those lugnuts wouldn't budge at all, even with all of my weight. Granted, the wrench wasn't the best tool ever created.

I ended up calling AAA (much easier). Still, it shouldn't have been locked on so darn tightly in my opinion.

 

Most stock lugnut wrenches are an emergency tool, I've had to kick them downwards when standing over them to get nuts to break free more times than I can remember....then there was that wrench that I bent...
The studs can self tighten over time and they can also pick up or seize when put on. Sometimes corrosion sneaks in too. I always give wheel studs a drop or two of oil or grease, whatever is within easy reach. I know the pain of trying to remove a wheel when you NEED to, and having the lug nuts stuck.
Every vehicle I've ever owned gets a good quality wheel nut spider wrench tossed into the spare as soon as I buy it. You can achieve sooooo much more leverage with them and they don't break. They all store well right on top of the spare wheel, just tape a bit of foam on teh ends to stop rattling.

Regards, Andrew.

 

Very annoying when trying to change a tire, especially a flat on the road, only to find that some junior gorilla has used all the torque he can get from an impact gun to overtighten a wheel! When the manufacturer specifies a certain torque, that's what's needed. No offense but I drive Volvos because I trust their cars, and their enginnering and therefore their recommendations. I figure they know more than the "specialists" here.

 

Do you carry a $200 torque wrench in your car for when you get a flat?

Regards, Andrew.

 

That's exactly my point: if the wheel is tightened substantially OVER the recommended torque, the factory wheel nut removal tool may not be adequate in undoing the wheel nuts in an emergency situation... If I did carry the $200 Torque Wrench, then I would be able to undo the nuts in spite of them being too tight...

 

When I got my new rims I too put a drop of 3-in-one oil on the studs and torqued to recommended spec. I took a look at my wheels the other day and I was actually missing a stud on the rear. I had extras so I put another one on and checked the torque on all of the rest of the studs.

Results: Rear studs all loose, some finger wiggle loose. Front studs were perfect, none loose at all.

Anyway, I posted a question about this on s40concepts and I was told NEVER ever put oil on studs.

 

Everyone can do as they wish I posted in this post because I have seen many 850's set to 65FTLB(Recommended by Volvo) come loose.

Also the S40's are common to have the lug nuts come loose when set to the Factory specs.
Have seen many of the wheels come off them as well and have to be towed back to us at the Dealer because they fell off.

 

Great. Just great.

 

Interesting responses. I did end up re-torquing everything to a couple of clicks past 70.

I went ahead and tried the factory wrench (that comes with the spare) both before and after re-torquing. All of my body weight wouldn't budge anything loose before, but I was able to after re-torquing to just above specification.

For me I feel more at ease, but I will periodically check the tightness every so often. I would imagine Volvo would set this model ('06 S40 T5) at 68 without the chances of the lug nuts coming loose in between the 7500 mile tune ups. Though, one can never be too sure.

Thanks again for the advice.

 

I just bought a '11 T5 C70 convertible. I tried to take one of the mag wheels off,,,,. There is chrome caps on the lug nuts,,,,humm. Finally got the the caps off, someone had used an impact wrench and overtightened them,,,but finally got them off,,,book says to torque to 86lbs. I set my wrench to 100lbs,,,,,I would presume thats ok,,? NOTE,,,I hand torqued them,,,