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-   -   Left low Beam not working on start (https://volvoforums.com/forum/general-volvo-chat-5/left-low-beam-not-working-start-100288/)

Nate Harris 06-28-2019 10:47 PM

Left low Beam not working on start
 
Hello,

I have an '86 240 wagon that has many electrical gremlins.
One being that the left low beam is always out when I start the car. I have to raise the hood, and wiggle the connection every time to get it back on, then it stays on until i turn the car off.
Any ideas?

Thank you!

donf 06-29-2019 02:33 PM

Nate,
Don't know what exactly is wrong, but my experience with Volvo headlights is that the sockets go bad eventually. Somewhere past 100,000 miles that heat seems to cook them. Any and all plastic for several inches back becomes brittles. Repeated fiddling with it and the wiring starts going. If they look wonky I'd just replace them now, maybe that's your problem b8t if not, you at least averted one down the road.

Nate Harris 07-07-2019 11:06 AM

Update - Now both low beams are not working, even with fiddling. I have checked both the under the hood relay, and dash relay, both appear to be in good condition, but I haven't checked them with a voltmeter yet. Haven't checked the condition of the knob. High beams still work.

Donf - the sockets seem to be okay. Possible it would cause both headlights to cut if it were a socket problem?

Also, the headlamp warning light remains on, even when both beams worked. I was told that this is because there are two different brand bulbs installed.

mt6127 07-07-2019 11:30 AM

regarding the headlight warning staying, if your two bulbs are the standard size (ie H7, 9004 etc whatever your car takes) and the correct wattage the brand should not matter. the sensor is reading voltage drop so if there's too much resistance in the circuit (a blown bulb will double the resistance/voltage drop of the normal circuit) the light goes on. This can also be caused by worn relays, corroded wire terminals etc which is what donf is talking about. best to start measuring voltage, resistance to ground etc starting at the connectors at the bulb then work your way to the relay. the switch only actuates the relay so you can test for that voltage there as well


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