Oil Leak on 2004 XC90
 

Hi I am one of the original 2 owners of a 2004 Volvo XC90 (2.5L engine). It has 120K original miles. My ex- transferred the title exclusively to me a few years ago. I know the car well, drove the car 99% of the time (now 100% of the time) and have always paid to maintain the car and been committed to taking care of any mechanical issue, which includes preventative maintenance. While I have had apparent servicing problems, I am facing a mechanical issue and am seeking some guidance. I do not work on my car, I just am looking for some guidance from someone who has dealt with this and knows Volvos.

The car started leaking oil sometime after April of this year. It appears as if the oil leak is getting slightly worse, but still not bad. I do not bring it in to my local dealer(s) because I caught them scamming me when I brought it to a dealer in another state. So I had some neighborhood mechanics look at it. The first three mechanics said I needed a new turbo but the first two not want to put a refurbished one in there. The third mechanic said he didn’t know if he could find a refurbished turbo for a Volvo XC90. So when I started calling recommended mechanics (of a company who rebuilds turbos), I had their recommended mechanic look at the car. He said that I did not have a turbo leak because if I did I would have smoke or oil coming out and performance issues, none of which I have. He said that I had a leak coming from the PCV system. He explained that the vacuum line on top was getting old (it is not brittle but rather softer and a little kinked) and this is a functioning part of the PCV system and the whole box underneath needs to be changed. That, he said can take a whole day of labor. I do not have a price yet. When we took off the oil filler cap we did find some carbon in the oil and also there is no pressure coming in or out of the oil fill spout that it seals. I have no engine codes. The car is performing well. I understand that the box may need to be changed and the carbon could be built up in there and it probably should be replaced. It has never been replaced. So my question is: since I have been told so many different things, how can I be sure where the leak is coming from the PCV system before spending the money I think I will need to spend? And what is the success ratio of this being able to fix the problem? He said his success ratio is 9 in 10. Should I take it to someone who can guarantee their work or is this about right? Additionally, I was told by the second mechanic (only him) that I had a cam seal leak but my timing belt was changed in 06/2012 at 76,000 miles. Btw, I do not recall being told I needed the new timing belt at that time, I recall making the request to do it preventatively and I was not turned away by my local dealer like I was when I requested more frequent oil changes than what the manufacturer recommends (why the dealer refused to make more frequent oil changes than what Volvo recommends makes no sense to me other than they only wanted to do things that would be more profitable for them). Also, assuming that the 2nd mechanic is even telling the truth about this(no other mechanic commented that I had a cam seal leak), can a cam seal leak come from the PCV system? Should I continue to drive the car until it is fixed or park it? Any other helpful tidbits welcome. I am very upset about this because of the attention and money I have spent over the years taking care of this car mechanically and did not expect to run into this problem.

First of all, its a bit concerning regarding your local mechanics not knowing how to find a replacement turbo for a Volvo - which all use the Mitsubishi TD04 turbo with various sizes of impellers (from a 12T for my Gen 1 S40) to a 14T for low pressure turbo to a 15G for the 850Ts and then onward to the 16Ts for most of the early 2000s T5 models. My guess is your XC90 uses a TD04-16T. Turbos can easily be rebuilt providing the wheel shafts are not worn too much with a seal kit easily found on eBay. A rebuild unit should run about $400 or so. Turbos are fed oil from the block and have an oil return line which has its own seal that can go - usually when that goes it makes the biggest mess a $.10 part can make. If you can remove the heat shield and look at the top of the turbo you can see the line going from the turbo back into the block. That doesn't sound like your problem. Usually turbos have issues with the inner seals which lets oil get into the exhaust or the intake air path and don't drip out from there so that leaves the the oil cooler lines the oil pan gasket and the PCV system as the possible sources for drips and driveway staining or it can be the rear cam seals. The PCV system has an oil separator which takes the oil from the PCV and returns it back into the block. Sounds feasible to me that if that hose is damaged, oil can leak out.

Best thing to do would be to totally clean the underside of the engine as best you can then wait and check for the source of the drips.

PS - time to get over the dealer hate thing. Its one thing to be upset about a repair that was more costly than expected or a repair that was done incorrectly and didn't get done right the first time and its another to suggest there's some criminal fraud going on.

Hi I did not say they (the local mechanics) did not know how to find a replacement turbo. I said they did not quote or want to quote me on a refurbished one, which I know is sold out there. Assuming that I knew how to work on the car, why would I purchase a rebuild kit for $400 when I can purchase the whole refurbished turbo for $500-$700 and it includes a warranty? You are correct, the turbo may not be the problem. And yes I understand that the problem may be a gaskets (you say seals) but my understanding is it takes a whole day of labor to take a turbo out and put it back in and this is not a quick fix. Keep in mind I don't work on the car, many of you folks do. As far as the PCV system, it could be that. The hose or "vacuum line" on top does not look damaged to me (it is not brittle) but I am not a mechanic. I think there is a carbon build up in the box, but again i have no experience working on these cars. My understanding is it takes almost a whole day of labor to take that out and replace that.

It is really not possible for me to totally clean the underside of the engine. Wouldn't it be best (definitely easier and more possible) to have a mechanic put it up on the lift and do it? I have also read that dyes can be put in the oil to determine where the leak is coming from.

And as far as the dealer is concerned, no wrong, there was criminal fraud going on. Whether or not it has anything to do with this problem, I don't know, but my reason for explaining that, is I can't just drive it in to my local dealer and get a diagnoses, they can't be trusted. I can't drive it to the one 70 miles away, they can't be trusted, either. If you want to know all of the details and issues, we can certainly get into it, but I prefer not to unless it is tied into this problem. So I would have to have my car towed or drive it to the next dealer, which is 2 1/2 hours away and I prefer not to do that if I can find someone who can fix the problem here. I KNOW from experience that there are trustworthy Volvo dealers in other areas, but getting to them is the issue. Volvo dealers work on Volvos day in and day out and they have additional equipment to fix or perhaps diagnose issues that local neighborhood mechanics do not have access to. So my reason for explaining that I can't bring it to the local dealer so that someone would not come back and say "bring it to your local dealer".

My engine has no performance issues and I have no warning lights. That seems a little strange to me, seems a light should come on if i have a leak and it would not just be a low oil warning light but i have no warning lights. Maybe Volvo does not manufacture a warning light to register for this issue. Maybe the dealer tampered with it, that's hard to say. Don't know.

Given your done with your local dealer and the next closest is in Baton Rouge, you can use Yelp and similar rating services to look for a Euro car specialist in your area. For example, Briskers in Kenner lists Volvo certifications and has likely done quite a few PCV systems. Most I5 turbos get the PCV system done at least once in their lifetime so getting the PCV serviced now is a pay now vs pay later decision - its about a 3 hour job (requires lifting the intake manifold off) and parts run about 300 for all the hoses/oil separator/clamps etc. so budget about $600-700 or so for that job. Just make sure to ask the shop to "rod out" the ports in the block so they get rid of any built up gunk that can clog the PCV later on. In terms of cleaning the engine and putting a dye to find a leak, yes the shop can do that - The DIY would entail removing the lower engine cover then use some product like Gunk to spray around and wash off (taking care to cover and not wet electrical components). A detailing shop may also do this if you want to ask around for quotes. Personally I think to a trained eye and with a few covers removed a tech should be able to inspect the usual places without totally degreasing the engine (ie inspect turbo seals/gaskets on the back side, inspect cam seals on the #5 side, inspecting breather tubes and oil lines to/from the cooler on the front. I'd also suggest having them pop off the timing belt cover just to make sure its all dry in there too. Good luck and post up how you make out.

Ok I need some more guidance, please.

I took it in to Briskers in Kenner. I was very impressed. He inspected it, with me present. While the oil did travel that way, he did not see a turbo leak issue. Nor did I, based on what he showed me I should be seeing, if it was leaking. Again, I have no performance issues and no oil or smoke symptoms so that checks. He did not think it was the PCV system and said that was not carbon in the oil under the oil filler cap but what I was looking at was normal for a car my age, and not causing the leak. So we got to the cam seals. Yes, the second mechanic was partly right, there is some kind of cam seal leak. (He was wrong about the turbo.) Why no one did not simply pop off the timing belt cover, which takes all but 3 minutes or so, is a mystery. I have been told by mechanics it was too labor intensive, which is BS. So he did that. The belt IS wet. It apparently was not done right by the New Orleans dealer in 2012.

Additionally, I was told I could drive the car but keep a close eye on the oil level. So when I went to do research on what kind of oil that I needed to purchase (and checked to see what was last put in) and also looked on p. 127 of my owners manual, it recommends the heavier 10W/30 for this climate in New Orleans metro. However, just off of curiosity, when I went to go back through my invoices, the New Orleans dealer and the Baton Rouge dealer and one rapid oil change place and the first mechanic (who told me I needed to pay $2600 for a new turbo) ALL put the lighter 5W/30 in my engine when they did their oil changes. In my opinion, this other issue is also criminal sabotage. It is not my responsibility to tell my local Volvo dealers what kind of oil my car needs!!! I will never be convinced by anyone that this was just a simple oversight.

As far as I can see, the lighter weight oil has been mostly put in my car going back in the last few years. This could be a contributing factor to why I have an oil leak. Or maybe the dealer did the timing belt change wrong in 2012, or maybe it is a combination of both.

So my question is...in your BEST opinion, if Briskers goes in and replaces the timing belt system, water pump, etc (that was incorrectly done by the local dealer in 2012) and cleans up the oil mess, should this fix my problem (and that includes staying on top of whoever changes my oil afterward and make sure they are putting the right weight oil in the engine!)?

And yes buyer beware!!!! Anyone reading this (especially you non-diy's), read your owners manual and check your invoices if you live in this hot climate and be sure your dealer or your mechanic is putting the right weight oil in your engine (meaning the oil the manufacturer recommends)!

I need more guidance! Thanks!

I have been done with my local dealer for 2 years.

When I went to the first mechanic, as discussed in this thread (their name is Guy Automotive and they are in Metairie), I went in and inquired about what it would cost to do a 120,000 mile check up as per Volvo's recommendations. I did not know yet that I had an oil leak, I just wanted a price. Volvo gives recommendations of what needs to be done at 120K miles, so I just wanted a price to know what it would cost. Last major one I had done, I paid the Volvo dealer in Baton Rouge to do everything at 90k miles and got invoiced for it and i have it. So the person working the desk at Guy Automotive, told me he would not quote me on a 120k mile service, as per the manufacturer's recommendations, which included a timing belt change and service. He told me to bring it in for an oil change and they would tell me what I needed. I told him I would be back in October when due. So then i found an oil leak. I brought it in 2 weeks early. A mechanic greeted me and I explained what I was there for and seem to be confused about why I wasn't getting a price for my 120k mile service when i was there earlier, and I told him i was turned away and told to bring it in for an oil change and they would tell me what I needed. He gave me a blank stare. So they put my car on the lift and the OWNER HIMSELF looked at it. HE (THE OWNER) told the guy working the desk I needed a new turbo after calling me out to show me the oil on the turbo (that didn't mean it was coming from the turbo because there is oil all underneath the car). I even questioned the owner because I had no symptoms of a bad turbo and he told me "don't believe everything you read online, you are paying me to fix your car" So then I asked the guy working the desk what about the other work and did I need a new timing belt and what about my other services needed for 120k mile check up. He told me "we don't know because we didn't look" and that it would be too labor intensive to open the timing belt cover and check things out in there, which isn't what he told me when I went in to get a price on it. Then they quoted me $2600 for a new turbo. Their name is Guy Automotive. All they had to do was pop open the timing belt cover to the box and look and they would have found a leak. Mind you that is what I asked for in the beginning - to give me a price on a timing belt maintenance for 120k miles. So they then lied to me and told me it was too labor intensive to open the timing belt cover and check things in there. So don't tell me not to accuse my local dealer and some local mechanics of fraud and malicious intent to scam me. And if you are buying a Volvo XC90 (I can't speak for other models, don't know), if a mechanic tells you its too labor intensive to pop open that timing belt cover like Guys Automotive did when I went back, THEY ARE LYING, They also put the wrong weight oil in my car (5W/30) and that is NOT what Volvo recommends in their manual and I was not asked to approve a switch by ANYONE.

So thank you for the referral. But I have a concern about the wrong oil being used in my car without a consultation or my consent or approval and I am not so sure that this is not part of the cause of my car's problems. VOLVO'S OWNER'S MANUAL says it can certainly be. Many sites online say it can be. Even some oil manufacturers have online what type of oil they recommend for this climate as well as for the age of my car and it's not what's been put in there.

My 2004 XC90 is a great car. I have driven the car since it is new, and it's only been stranded once because of a mechanical problem. But it's been extremely expensive to maintain and that has been because of bad advice, unecessary advice, or no advice from my Volvo Dealer, or just sabotage to create more work. I really do vouch that, based on my experience of owning and driving it, the car is well made and extremely reliable. Dealer and mechanic service has been the BIG ISSUE. I am not a diy'er. I will never buy another Volvo so long as I live in this area, and it hopefully won't be too much longer, EVER AGAIN!

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My wet timing belt found by Raz at Briskers because he took 3 minutes of the inspection to open the timing belt cover and see.
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The sticker put next to my timing belt cover by my local dealer saying when it was last changed.

Sorry if you can't open pics, it should be opening, they are not opening on my computer in this thread.

good deal that you found a shop that is thorough. Timing belts on your car are due at 105K or 10 years but value is model specific. A handy link for the service bulletin: https://www.volvotechinfo.com/index....ltInterval.pdf

Side note to other readers - I've also posted previously the link to Volvo's document site which includes owners manuals and the maintenance manual which is very useful for making usre your shop keeps to the factory guidance.

As to the discovery of a wet timing belt - for the models with the VVT gear (aka VVT hub), there's a couple of possible causes of the leaks a) the cam seals b) the water pump or main seal or c) the VVT hub assembly - which is driven by oil pressure and they can develop leaks over time. You'll need to replace the belt, tensioner and probably want to do the idlers and serepentine belt all at once as they will have to come off to access the cam seals. The VVT hub also comes off so it should be inspected closely as well to make sure its not the cause of the wetness. (need to check if your model has VVT on both intake and exhaust...some earlier years only did the exhaust).

Good luck it sounds like you're getting things sorted out.

Regarding timing belts, mine was last changed at 76,921 in June 2012 by the Metairie, La Volvo dealer, so I did not need to change it at 105k miles or in 2014 (it is a 2004). I have a XC90 My owner's manual is not exactly clear to me about the 105k/10 year recommendation. See attachment. I did call Volvo Corporate to try to get clarification and they could not help. I called Giles in Lafayette, La a few weeks ago and they gave a recommendation but they have not seen my car or the situation. I was not advised change the cam seals in 2012 (maybe they were changed, I don't recall that they were, and I don't have the invoice). If they were changed, I was not asked they just did it and I paid for it. The Metairie, La Volvo dealership never emailed me their written quotes or recommendations which is bad business! Shady! Also, I was never told to be sure to bring the car back in at 105k miles or in 2014 to get the cam seals replaced. But it's been 7 years and it's due for other 120k mile things so that is why I went in to Guy's Automotive to make an inquiry and get a price. While I realize that, generally speaking, I am not due now for a timing belt, had they popped open the cover they would have found the oil leak and perhaps had a different recommendation instead of a new turbo and a refusal to service my car and change the belt again, along with the cam seals.

Also when I asked the local dealership to start stamping my owner's manual for services rendered, I was told I didn't need it and everything would be in their computer. The few times I have called in years past, to find out what work was actually done, I have been told by the service advisor that the computer can't pull up that information. Shady! Readers - I recommend keeping ALL of your invoices organized in a file. Also, readers, regarding the Metairie dealer, since they don't email out recommendations or estimates, check your invoices carefully before you pay them, they sometimes put things in there that aren't true about what they have done with your car or what you said or what you were told. Make them correct their lies before paying, because believe it or not, somebody is reading the invoices and making false assumptions, if you don't.
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Volvo Service Recommendations re: higher mileage in my 2004 Owners Manual.
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Volvo Oil Service Recommendations in my 2004 Owners Manual.


Not sure if the wrong oil being used is also causing this leak, also, but attached is Volvo's oil recommendations in my 2004 Owner's manual. I was never asked or consulted about a substitution.

yes the 10-30 is the correct weight for your climate. I have heard of older cars leaking when the owner switches from traditional to synthetic - but thats due to the seals hardening. If you have been running synthetic for a while it shouldn't be a problem but there are "high mileage" synthetic oils available which have seal softeners, which is what I use in my son's 2000 S40 (synthetic oil tend to make the VVT last longer too). You could make that switch with your next oil change (a good reason to do your own) to see if it help the leak.

Thank you so much for your guidance.

There is no question in my mind that the local Volvo dealer put 5W/30 in my car - i do have invoices going back the last few years and they did put 5W/30 in my car. And, I was never consulted.

They lied about other things on the invoices - such as they did car washes - or that I asked for something I never asked for (when I was advised to do it and ok'd the advice). That is why I was saying they didn't email their recommendations for a reason. Or that the service advisor REFUSED to document my complaints about the engine vibrating harder after HE advised me to change my front engine mount. (I later found out by another Volvo dealer, when I got to another city, that engine mount did not even belong in a XC90 but rather an older and different model Volvo (I think they said V70). And, I never complained of any symptoms that warranted the change. I trusted them (big mistake). So that is why i was saying in the beginning that I did not know if this also had anything to do with my problems. When I got to Baton Rouge to have the Volvo dealer there service my car, i continued to complain of the engine vibrating harder, and they did document it, and instead of putting the correct one in there, they charged me for the wrong one again. (They may have just left what was in there, in there). So when Northpoint Volvo in Atlanta serviced my car, is when I found all this out. I saw what was in there and I saw what was put in there by them and they were not BS'ing me.

So readers I am accusing them of fraud and of worse but I am also saying - if you are a non-diy'er - read your invoices and if your Volvo dealer does not document your complaints in writing or you don't agree with what they wrote on your invoice (like they did car washes they don't even do at that dealership), make them fix it or don't pay them.

I will also take my invoice back to Guy's Automotive and request a refund of my most recent oil change. The best way to handle this would be to get a lawyer and sue them all, but my experience with them in this corrupt sewer city is that they are just as bad as everyone else who has been involved.

Again, thanks for your guidance and let me know what you think about the front engine mount situation and if it has had any possible affect on this problem.

Ok maybe we can get to the last post later.

Guy's Automotive did give me a refund on my oil change, which was smart. The guy working the desk justified why he used what he used, but problem there is i was never asked to make a switch from what was recommended in my owner's manual, and i was turned away when I asked to follow my manual regarding my 120k mile check up. Interesting because there was also a stupid nasty woman sitting in the lobby waiting who falsely accused me of being nasty to them when I went in to get assistance for my 120k mile check up and then with my oil leak, and that I got what I deserved. She is just that...stupid and nasty because that did NOT happen. And if you have a nasty customer (which I was not), or a customer that you don't like (have no idea why), then you turn them away, you don't sabotage their car!!!! That's what terrorists do, and she was no doubt one of many around here.

Anyway, i got the right oil. Any brands of filters you like? That's not in my owner's manual (except for the recommended intervals for oil changes). There are so many of them. They have 2 different types in stock and many different brands that you can order. I know Volvo recommends oil changes every 7500k miles or 12 months and even though I get mine more frequently than that, I would still get a 7500k mile filter, but any other specification, brand, etc you and some others use or like?

I do my own oil changes so I buy Mann filters (OEM supplier) from FCP Euro in bulk - winds up about $4 a filter. When it comes to buying oil, I stick with name brand synthetics - Castrol/Mobil/Penzoil/Valvoline etc, all of which are carried at Walmart. On my 2012 VW I use Castrol Edge on my son's 2000 S40 I use Penzoil or Valvoline high mileage full synthetic (has seal softener additives which is good for 15 year old cars.)

Yes, definitely, I have a name brand oil. We have identified that the wrong viscosity of oil has been put in my car for this climate, so I got 10W/30 and I did get a high mileage oil. I did not get synthetic, however, because I don't really see how, according what it says in my owner's manual, that my vehicle qualifies for it.

Also, I do not know what your son's 2000 S40 Volvo's Owner's manual says, but in my 2004 XC90 owners manual, it says "Volvo does not recommend the use of oil additives". It appears as though it is purchased separately. ??? Do you add the additives or do the additives already come in the high mileage full synthetic that you are referring to?

Going back through my invoices in the last few years, the 2 local dealers put 5w/30 no synthetic, and after I was done with them for a multitude of reasons, mechanics were putting in 5w/30 synthetic. Only 1 mechanic gave me the time to look in my owners manual, so he put the right viscosity oil in it (10w/30). The rest said they knew what I needed and they were wrong because they were looking at THEIR online computer sources. Whether it had seal softener additives, i do not know. Do you anticipate there to be a problem to go back to non-synthetic?

keep in mind that when your car was new in 2004, synthetic oil was a rather new and expensive option so very few cars actually recommended its use. fast forward to today, and production costs have come way down so the cost differential is minor. The main difference between synthetic oils and dino is synthetic oil is manufactured from natural gas - where the process links the gas molecules to make the longer molecules in the oil product. What you don't get are the impurities that refining from crude can't totally eliminate (stuff like sulfer which turns into sulfuric acid over time ) which is why synthetic oils don't break down like traditional products. New cars typically have oil change intervals now in the 7500 to 10,000 mile range - which is almost 2x what a 2000ish car would specify.

As to oil additives, Volvo was referring to stuff people add to their oil - which are typically detergents that may loosen deposits but actually also contribute to breaking down the oil and losing the protection the oil provides. All oils sold have additives - you can read some interesting stuff on bobistheoilguy.com on whether there's a different but what Volvo says is you should use an oil that meets their tested standards. The products will show standards met (ie API standards etc) and then the name brands contain additives to provide performance advantages (like better retention on cylinder walls at low RPMs, resistance to break down under heat and so on). Most people are away of the numbering like 5/30 or 10/40 - which refer to the oil "weight" at temperature (small being the viscosity and other metrics at a cold temp and the higher number when warm). Going back to the topic of traditional vs synthetics - synthetics are known to hold their viscosity way better at extreme temps - effectively extending that temp range charge you see in the owners manual. That's why Volvo does recommend synthetic for extreme driving conditions (like pulling a trailer, extreme climate changes, driving in mountains etc) so there's no downside to the synthetic upgrade.

Thank you for answering my questions as I am trying to determine what is the cause or causes of the oil leak before I decide what i will do, and then consider the other possible issue.

You have been clear, we know they put the wrong viscosity (except 1 mechanic), I guess the ambiguity is I don't know if the synthetics put in my car by the mechanics in the last few years, had seal softener additives... I am trying to figure out CAUSE. I know my local Volvo Dealer lied to me and told me that my car was just getting older when it was vibrating hard after they put the wrong engine mount in it (after I had no complaints about the car), so while "old age" is possible, it is just not something I immediately buy, anymore. The car is well made, drives great, and has been extremely reliable despite those with other agendas who have wanted to sabotage the car.

Also as far as extreme temperatures, fall is here and our winters are mild so that is why I was thinking i would be ok without synthetic for now.

Changing the oil to the correct one hopefully will help me to come up with a conclusion. Not sure if damage to cam seals, which has been driven by the wrong oil, is irreversible at this point, but i will see and let you know. Any insight?

no damage would happen from using the 5-30 vs a 10-30 since they effectively overlap temp ranges with the 5-30 being better in freezing temps. I should caveot that I have seen cases where going to synthetic can cause some weeping from old seals, but that's where the "high mileage" oils help. You can also get high mileage in synthetic blend or traditional.

As to causes for oil leaks - the first thing to look for is positive PCV pressure - this can happen when the positive crankcase ventilation system clogs up. Normally the blow by gasses are pushed out of of the engine block through the PCV hoses, into an oil separator to return the oil to the engine and then the gas vents back into the intake. When that clogs up, the pressure builds up in the crank case and can push oil through normally healthy seals or even push the seals out of place. There's two quick tests for positive crankcase pressure - 1) with the engine running, pull the dip stick - did any whistling stop? is there any smoke coming out of the dip stick port? 2) with the engine running at idle, pop off the oil fill cap and place a latex glove over the top (ie a surgeon's glove). If the glove inflates, you have positive pressure in the crank case and need to service the PCV system. If the glove sucks in or puffs in and out, your system is normal.

After that, I'd look at the age of the car and maintenance history. With the oil filter cap off, do you see any sludge build up? staining on the aluminum head is normal but signs of a thick build up is not. Seals can go from time to time - so the thing to do is determine where the oil is leaking from to have a plan to remediate. Most common are the cam seals. There are two front seals that will leak inside the timing belt cover. Leaks in the front of the engine by the cam gears can be either the seals or the variable valve timing (VVT) hub assembly. There are also rear cam seals on the opposite side of the engine. R+R of the front cam seals is best done with a timing belt replacement ($700 job), R+R of the rear cam seals requires moving some intake components out of the way but only about $25 worth of parts. there's also the front main seal on the crank case - which again needs the timing belt removed. the rear main seal sits between the engine and transmission so to replace that requires removal of the trans. There's an oil return line that runs from the turbo back into the block - not uncommon for the $.10 seal to go - easy fix for a shop. There's oil lines from the block to the oil cooler - not very common for those to leak, finally there's the oil pan seal which again is not very common for leaks unless some work was done. If you have a leaky oil pan, its not a bad idea to have the shop remove the oil pan, replace the o-rings in the oil pump, clean out the gunk that may work its way into the PCV system (even consider doing the PCV at the same time). Big job for all of the bottom end work but will really add life to the engine. It is also possible for a head gasket to leak oil - normally there'd be other symptoms but this would be the worst case scenario as it would require removal of the cylinder head, possibly some machine shop work (ie $2000+ cost potential here). So to find the leak, the shop may simply do a visual inspection, clean the engine to get a better sense of a leak source, or even add a dye. Most shops will charge a one hour diagnostics fee for this kind of look see.

Maybe no damage would come from using 5w30 vs 10w30 in your part of the country, but if Volvo says use 10w30 in climates with temps as high as we have here in New Orleans during the summer, and we have have long hot summers, then it seems to me that could be the cause of some problems. Using synthetic without seal softeners could be a part of the problem, too. If the cam seals have to be accessed by lifting the timing belt cover (idk?), then i find it hard to believe Volvo dealers are doing all of that work when they change oil, but maybe they are.

As discussed earlier in this thread, the PCV system was glanced at and it looks ok for a car this age. There is some carbon type particles in the oil but according to Raz at Briskers that is normal for a car this age. I saw the oil leak and i saw the wet timing belt and I do not believe that is coming from the PCV system, maybe in the mind of another scammer mechanic in this corrupt sewer city, who never bothered to pop open the timing belt cover, and who wanted to scam me and charge me for a whole day of labor to change out my PCV system (when it does not take a whole day of labor). We discussed that mechanic in this thread.

There is no sludge build up under the oil filler cap - there is some particles in there, but no sludge build up. I read another thread on here where a buyer of a used Volvo had an oil leak and called the previous owner and he/she said the PCV system had been changed. I guess some mechanic was trying to sell them on a new PCV system, too?

Early engine wear from what I believe was the wrong oil being used, is my other concern.

I don't want to go paying someone $2300 to fix a problem when I don't know the cause of the problem, and I believe nothing that Bergeron Volvo here tells me, so I don't buy the "old age" story, anymore. Yes I know sometimes things go bad due to old age, but I just don't buy that, anymore.

oil under the timing belt cover on the upper area comes from one of two places - the cam seals or the VVT pulley. The VVT (variable valve timing) is driven by oil pressure and the components can clog up (resulting in a check engine light due to valve timing being off) or develop leaks and the pulley will need to be replaced. The discussion point about the PCV system is that should it clog, the engine will build up enough crankcase pressure to either push oil out through a seal or it can literally push the seal out of place creating a leak. Either way, if you have a wet timing belt, it needs to be replaced and that is always done with a new tensioner. Once the timing belt is off, the tech will be able to also replace the front cam seals and inspect the the VVT system for leaks. Reason for checking the PCV system is that if its clogged it would likely push out your new seals or find another place to leak (like the rear cam seals or the main seals).