Koni/H&R's
Hello all,
So I think I'm going to do the H&R/Koni because I don't want to deal with adjusting etc. I like the idea of a set ride height...if anyone has any input on decision or offer up ides all for it. I think my 06 S40 2.4i will look good with Pegasus wheels just not sure on size.
Thanks in advance
So I think I'm going to do the H&R/Koni because I don't want to deal with adjusting etc. I like the idea of a set ride height...if anyone has any input on decision or offer up ides all for it. I think my 06 S40 2.4i will look good with Pegasus wheels just not sure on size.
Thanks in advance
Keep in mind you need to pair the shocks with the springs - particularly when using an after market lowering spring. Personally I've done Bilsteins so by example, their B4 is an OEM replacement, B6 is their heavy duty for stock springs and the B8 is designed for lowering springs. I'd bet Koni has a similar catalog. Good news is Tire Rack is running a Koni promo so you can call them up and ask what they'd pair with the H&Rs (ie Koni Reds or Koni Yellows etc). For your rims, check out wheel-size.com to see the factory recommendations for 17 and 18s. I wouldn't go much bigger - I have 235/45-17s on my VW CC (similar to what newer S60s use) and those are pretty wide but not super low. For your car, the biggest you'd want to go is a 7.5x18 ET50 which can run 225/40-18s or a 7x17ET52.5 running 205/50-17s...
I'll check that sight out and email tire rack.com...i was thinking 17 or 18 due to which will look best with a lowered car but not too low. I want to put the order in soon...I had bilsteins on my mk3 Supra and they were stiff. So not sure about those B8's, but I did see the Koni's were on sale so that's good
I did the Koni Reds on my S60 with the H&R lowering springs. I liked it a lot, but I took off the lowering springs after 3 years and put the factory springs back in because the roads around here are getting so horrible and I kept cracking rims. I drive super fast though which is part of the problem and if I lived in one of the newer suburbs the streets would be a lot nicer and I wouldn't have this problem.
Things I learned when I did it though, you will need shorter sway bar end links. The factory ones are 13 inches I think, You want 11.5 inches long. Moog makes some that have grease fittings that were perfect even though they aren't made for a Volvo. Way better then adjustable ones that cost 3 times as much and suck.
Things I learned when I did it though, you will need shorter sway bar end links. The factory ones are 13 inches I think, You want 11.5 inches long. Moog makes some that have grease fittings that were perfect even though they aren't made for a Volvo. Way better then adjustable ones that cost 3 times as much and suck.
MOOG K750385
Those are the ones I used.but not sure on your model car what the length difference will be. But if you don't get shorter endlinks your suspension will be preloaded and it will cause the car to dart in the direction you steer in a way that makes it difficult to keep the car in your lane. It also makes the tires wear unevenly. The only other thing I can give as advice is to buy OE spring seats, these things support the weight of the car, on the spring and twist with the spring when you hit any bump like a bearing and they can become obnoxiously loud. Aftermarket just aren't the same as the factory ones. If I was doing it all today I'd have replaced all the frame bushings at the same time with a poly kit too. Just because the harshness of the shorter springs destroyed the older rubber ones after a couple years. And I'd opt for the slightly smaller wheel size with larger sidewall to help with the bumps too, Unless you like buying new wheels and tires. I think I have a whole extra set of cracked rims at this point. Not trying to scare you from doing it. The roads here really are garbage. You shouldn't rip a wheel off on a pothole.Thread
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