113 and 213 codes
 

Hi all, new here and need some advice. Have a 90' 240 DL with 230,000 miles that has sat for 4 full years after blowing the rear main seal. Need it on the road again so off we go gettin' greasy. The seal blew thanks to a clogged crankcase ventilation line (warning these get plugged up on old cars and can cause the rear main to blow). Would start but wouldn't stay running more than 30 seconds. Replaced the ECU with a used one and she fired up and stayed running. After the typical stuff like tires, brakes, new fuel sender, 02 sensor, plugs, wires, cap, rotor etc.. I went into the more detailed stuff. Removed throttle body and cleaned thoroughly. Replaced any old or dry rotted vacuum lines. Finally she's running extremely well (strong motor previous owner was little old lady from pasadena lol) purrin' like a kitten, but still have a stubborn check engine light. Getting 2 different sets of codes. 213 and then 113 on second check in that order. I know 113 is fuel injectors but have read that it can be a number of different things. 213 is throttle switch I believe. My question is could this be the AMM? I disconnected the AMM while the engine was running (read afterwards that this is not good idea duh) and the car cuts out instantly. Battling a bit with the adjustment for the throttle cables. Couldn't get a temp reading and played around with the connector on the cluster. Found that when I plugged it in the idle went up slightly. Unplug it and it went right back down. Sprayed the pins and connector with some cleaner spray and it seemed to work as I now got temp reading and idle seems normal. I'm lost here. I can pull the ground off the battery and put it back on and it clears the last code and shuts off the check engine light when I start it again. Seems to run smoother too. Take off down the street and within a block or so the light comes back on. Do I need a throttle position switch and a new AMM? Can't smog it until I can get that darn light to stay off. Any help is appreciated I got about $1500 into this $500 car. Thanks in advance. Jim

RE: 113 and 213 codes
 

Decided to pull the AMM and have a look at it. Other than being a bit dirty it looked OK. Although I have no clue what it would look like if it wasn't OK lol. Cleaned it inside and out with some brake parts cleaner and re-installed it. Cleared the codes again by pulling the ground and same thing. Down the block aways and the light comes back on. Only now I'm only getting a 213 code. No more 113. Can I adjust the throttle switch? I noticed it can be adjusted with 2 allen screws. I've read about a click you hear when adjusting it but didn't hear any click.

RE: 113 and 213 codes
 

I would try adjusting the throttle switch. It might be keeping it in the idle off circuit.
Yes it should click just above idle.

RE: 113 and 213 codes
 

Thanks so much for your help. I adjusted the TB switch all the way counterclockwise which made the idle go up noticeably. Backed it off until it sounded normal (no click). Pushed the button for 5 seconds and let go and lo and behold it lit up solid again and then the check engine light went out. Took off down the block and circled the block twice and no light. Let it sit and idle for a few mintues and the light came back on again darn it. The adjustment for both the throttle cable and the TB switch seem very tempermental. It's gotta be what's causing this check engine light. Got everything else pretty dialed with the exception of the speedometer (which I think I fried due to connecting the red and white wire (doh)) and a slightly high temp (thinking fan clutch) just need to get rid of this darn light. Of course trying to avoid replacing the AMM especially if it's not what's causing the prob for one, and two, turning it into an artificial reef (got a pretty good sized bluff to drive it off of if it keeps pissing me off) lol. Thanks again.

Work so far completed*

Checked all fuses
Mechanic installed used ECU
Installed temp compensating bypass wire
Mechanic cleaned TB thoroughly and adjusted linkages initially but I've mucked with it a bit
Checked for vacuum leaks and don't find any (could be a minor one maybe but doubt it)
Cleaned AMM
New battery
Flushed cooling system
Replaced fuel sender in tank
Front wheel bearings
Brake pads
Plugs
Wires
Cap
Rotor
Replaced crankcase ventilation line (it was 90% plugged up)
Tires
$300 back fees at DMV

Currently at $1300 (car is worth about $700)


****HELP****

RE: 113 and 213 codes
 

Also wanted to add that it can go from a 113 code to a 213 code with just a slight adjustment af the TB switch. Sometimes it'll give me 113 on the first check and 213 on the next one. But mostly it's back to 113. Also noticed last night that the cluster lights (bulbs) are flickering slightly as well as that F@#^*&($@ing check engine light. Headlights seem steady unless using the electric windows. Not sure if it's related probably not, but I'm gonna go have the whole charging system checked in about 5 minutes.

RE: 113 and 213 codes
 

Did anyone spray carb or brke clean around intake gasket to check for leaks?

RE: 113 and 213 codes
 

OK battery guy across the street just did a full system check and says everything is really good. Said the voltage regulator was at about 95% proper operation but was most likely causing the headlights to dim while using the windows. Guess it could also be some loose wiring or ground somewhere contributing. Either way he said not to worry about anything for at least a year and he'll check it again for me. The more I get into this thing the more I want to start calling it the Fonzie mobile. You can literally fix certain things by whacking them just the right way lol. Last nite on a 60 mile highway loop to blow everything outI had the temp gauge go out on me twice and a closed fist thump on the dash got it going again lol (beware all you trigger happy parts replacers out there). But today my bypass wire from IDE showed upso I installed it and it seems to be working. We'll see..

RE: 113 and 213 codes
 

Thanks tech..just tried that but not really sure what I'm looking at. Engine is kind of hot right now so not sure if I'm seeing the brake parts cleaner just boiling off real quick or a leak. This is a fine time to be throwing an intake manifold gasket at me BTW ha ha.

Can you be more specific about what a leak would look like when sprayed? Thanks Jim

RE: 113 and 213 codes
 

Ok once again was able to reset the C/E light by holding the button for 5 seconds, then light comes on solid push again for 5 seconds and C/E light is now off and I'm reading a 111 code. Woohoo!! My money says light will be back on in 5 minutes...

RE: 113 and 213 codes
 

Seems the adjustable linkage was keeping the throttle slightly open. I've adjustaded everything so it idles back down and is just running real good. 111 code now but seems if I drive the C/E light comes on again and then it's 113 again..

RE: 113 and 213 codes
 

If the intake gasket was leaking when you spray around it the idle will change all by itself.

RE: 113 and 213 codes
 

Thanks tech didn't get any of that I don't think. Today on a short 50 mile loop she ran a bit hot around 2/3rds maybe and when I stopped the idle was slightly high and surging every few seconds downward. Haven't seen that yet. Is there a chance my new 02 sensor is batty? Reading a 213 code now and light is still on. Guess I'll get the volvo guy out here again when I get another bundle of cash that I ain't doing anything with (yeah right).

RE: 113 and 213 codes
 

You can read the O2 sensor if you have a digital meter.

RE: 113 and 213 codes
 

No change in idle when spraying around the intake manifold gasket. Still have the 213 code and light on. Have tried the throttle control switch in every position possible. Maybe it's bad. While adjusting things the other day I actually got a 121 code indicating the mass airflow sensor but it was only temporary and have'nt seen that code again. If I shut it off then unplug the MAF it runs real bad no matter what RPM. Plug it back in fire it up and it runs normal again with maybe a slightly high idle. Looks like I'm gonna have to just replace every component until the darn light goes off. Frustrated...

RE: 113 and 213 codes
 

Sorry I wish I was closer so I could see the car.

RE: 113 and 213 codes
 

Well, I adjusted the TPS so it just started to raise the idle, reset the light and drove 40 miles and didn't come back on. Still getting a 213 code but now I'm afraid to push the button again as I know the light will come back on if I so much as breath on it. Running great but still slightly hot on the freeway. With heater on full it stays just over the halfway mark. Gonna flush the system tomorrow and get the mixture right. My thermostat was completely busted. One of the arms holding together had let just let go from sitting which explains why it took so long to warm up. Any idea on how many gallons the cooling system holds? Thanks Jim

RE: 113 and 213 codes
 

It should hold about 1.5 gallons.

RE: 113 and 213 codes
 

OK flushed the system but not sure it helped. Still running slightly above center with the heater on. If I turn the heater off and let it sit and idle the temp hangs around the 9:30 to 10:00 o'clock mark. If I start driving the temp will go up slowly(mainly on the freeway). (BTW I've installed the temp compensation bypass wire) not sure how far it will go as I always turn the heater back on before it hits the red. Fan clutch runs solid when I first crank it up then goes into freewheel mode after a minute or so (it's brand new). Maybe it's faulty or maybe I'm faulty. Might replace the radiator just to be sure or at least take it off and have it cleaned professionally. My more important issue is the C/E light. I've read through and understand how to use the LED diagnostic box. I cannot get the light to turn off unless I unhook the ground off of the battery. At that point I can push the button and get a 1-1-1 code but it's temporary. I'll drive for a while and it'll stay off. When I return and check it I'll get the 2-1-3 code again and before long the light comes back on. The test I performed on the TPS says it's OK. However usually after a short drive the idle will be unusually high (2000 +) and it will dip abruptly and repeatedly. If I turn the engine off and crank it straight back up the idle returns to normal or even below 1000. Could this be a bad ECU (I've had a used one installed). Or just a bad TPS. While I am having a bit of fun learning how to be a volvo mechanic I'm going broke and have 2 more weeks to get it to pass smog. HELP!!

RE: 113 and 213 codes
 

It might be possible a bad ECU.
I still cannot make sense of the code. That usually never comes up. Have you tried another one?
You might be able to get a junk yard one really cheap.

RE: 113 and 213 codes
 

That's a TPS code, you know. Please note that typically one doesn't set the switch by engine idle. With the engine off, you move the switch until it clicks just as the throttle body blade moves. I usually set mine when the TB is off the car and I'm cleaning it. I hold it to my ear and listen. To clear your codes, it is not uncommon to have to hold the button down for more than 12-14 seconds while the pin is plugged into #2, #6 or even #5 if a turbo. Release and a solid light should come on. Then, hold it down for 12-15 seconds and release. Light should go off. Then hold down for 2-3 seconds and check codes ....all should be 1-1-1. When you disconnect the battery, you are also forcing the ecu to relearn every time. Leads to a viscious cycle. Sounds like you need a new radiator dude...and/or fan clutch. My money's on the rad.