1975 242 DL Mods and Upgrades - Page 3 - Volvo Forums - Volvo Enthusiasts Forum


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  #41  
Old 12-16-2014, 09:14 PM
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so, one thing bugs me.... this seems like a lot of car for a stock B20 engine with k-jet? or is there something missed back in there?
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  #42  
Old 12-16-2014, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce View Post
so, one thing bugs me.... this seems like a lot of car for a stock B20 engine with k-jet? or is there something missed back in there?
The b20 is in there for the moment. I haven't decided if I'm going to pick up an "e" head for it and side draft it with cam and lifters for this one.

I can also turbo the B20 for cheap.

K-jet is pretty simple and easy to work on.

The B20 is a very nice motor, and this will be my daily driver.

I am still waiting for parts to finish this motor (which will probably end up in this car):

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  #43  
Old 12-17-2014, 12:10 AM
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It's been a while since I've read through the thread... are you planning on making those mounts available?
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  #44  
Old 12-17-2014, 01:24 AM
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The Aluminum engine ones?
I haven't found a reliable place to cut my set yet. I wasn't planning making anymore...
I need to test the steel ones before I would sell them to anyone.
We did send a copy of the V1 aluminum mount file to Ben at Kaphlenke Racing.
If we talk with him, he might be able to offer something for purchase.
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  #45  
Old 02-03-2015, 06:45 PM
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Update:

Been working on the car at a slower rate than I wanted, but we are in the final stretch for it now.

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This is where the shifter ends up after moving everything over

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The engine and trans are now in their proper place. Shifted the engine and trans like a .25" to the passenger side.

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There are the new lower mounts in place. Intake and exhaust still need to come off for new gaskets and wiring.

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There is the new skid plate I made for the header. Should work well.

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Drive shaft is in.

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We finally have some decent u-joint angles and working angles now.

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Got the rest of the fuel line parts yesterday, so those should be done this weekend.


That is all for now.
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  #46  
Old 02-24-2015, 08:46 PM
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Update:


Here is the skid plate. Simple, cheap and works.

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Welds are okay. I was rushing it, but it will work.
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Rear mounted battery. Going to run my yellow top optima.



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So far, The fuel lines have been taking a little extra time. The fuel line tool works great for pushing the fittings on and making the lines take very little time. It is the running and planning out the paths which takes a while.




New fuel lines, speedo cable, and battery cable.

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New Line for return on the tank.

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The heater control valve cable broke. I just did a temporay fix till the new one comes in. should still work though:

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Last thing done was making a fuel line holder for the intake manifold.

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It works, but I want to get it CNC cut and use an actual metal brake to form the part next time.


We will finish the fuel system this weekend, and finish the battery cable.


I am working on some rear deck enclosures for some 6.5" component speakers. Right now, I am trying to get a large enough volume so the mid woofers have some decent bottom end. Lucky the amp has some filters options to give a slight boost at the low end. Right now, these enclosures are only 2.3 cubic Liters.

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Just doing some testing of the stock shape here. I'm going to have to expand the lower sections under the deck more to get me to my goal of at least a 3 cubic liter enclosure. The final shape will be really annoying to make out of wood, so I'm thinking I will have to make some fiberglass versions if I cant get them 3D printed. Have to avoid the battery, the subwoofer and amps.


Oh. The rims are finally getting repaired. Should have them hopefully in a couple of weeks.


That's all for now, more this weekend...
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  #47  
Old 02-26-2015, 05:08 AM
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Small Update:

Did some measurements of the rear deck and trunk space. Made a simple model showing the boundaries to check my clearances and see how large of an enclosure I can get for the mid woofers.


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Top View (looking down)
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Front view (looking from the passenger compartment into the trunk)
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Side View (from the driver side)
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The amp will mount to the side of the sub
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The mid woofer enclosures are roughly 4 cubic liters, which is not too bad. that should only need some very slight boosting in the amp. The Sub enclosure is 26.4 cubic liters. As mentioned above, looking at 6.5" components in the rear deck, and a 10" sub powered by a small digital amp that puts out 400watts. 100watts to the 6.5" component each and 200watts to the 10". Should be a nice balanced setup when it is all said and done.

So...everything looks good for clearance, just need to finish the enclosure models and make them. I am looking into printing some test parts, and templates, then a fiberglass final part. I have not decided if I will sand and paint them or just carpet them. The Sub will be carpet so I might just keep it all the same.

Last edited by TIPSP; 02-26-2015 at 01:29 PM.
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  #48  
Old 02-26-2015, 01:19 PM
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we all have our favorite brands, but I've been very happy with the upper midrange JL Audio component and/or coaxial 6.5" speakers, with the separate crossovers. Very clean sounding, handle plenty of power.
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  #49  
Old 02-26-2015, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierce View Post
we all have our favorite brands, but I've been very happy with the upper midrange JL Audio component and/or coaxial 6.5" speakers, with the separate crossovers. Very clean sounding, handle plenty of power.

I have some I was going to stick in the other 240 before the accident. I have been doing all the measurements for the enclosures with the speakers I have.

Got this in the mail today:

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Those are rear "R" caliper adapters. They will not go on the car yet as I'm going to drive with just the fronts and modified rears for now. Going to see how that works first, then I will step up the rears and upgrade to a mustang master cylinder.
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  #50  
Old 04-13-2015, 12:18 AM
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Update:

Lots of things happening, but progress has been made.

Making an adapter for the filler neck for the older cars.

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Here it is:

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Finished the battery cable and fuel lines:

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Lines are not in the clamps yet, as we are waiting to prime the system and check for leaks.

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Made a heat shield for the cables and lines:

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Final Shape:

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  #51  
Old 04-13-2015, 12:18 AM
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We decide the wiring harness was a mess and are currently looking at it/ removing some things.

Decide to go with the Denso 100amp alternator internally regulated (much simpler to install this than mess around with the stock 55amp and external regulator/ terrible wiring and connectors:

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3d printed a temp bracket to test belt lengths:

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Stock belt length works but a little too short: got a longer one from napa:



Still making the bracket for the alternator, but here it is partly done (not using that bolt...don't worry):

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There has been more done to it, but I will not post any of that yet.

More to come next weekend.

Last edited by TIPSP; 04-13-2015 at 12:21 AM.
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  #52  
Old 04-19-2015, 03:16 AM
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Finished the Alternator bracket and mounted it. Just have to wire it up now.

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Also Started to address some noisy panels in the car. No buzzing or resonating any more.

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Rubber foam pads are installed on the panels themselves.

More tomorrow
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  #53  
Old 04-19-2015, 11:54 PM
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Finished the interior sound paneling.

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Wiring the fuel pumps up:

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Carpet on the trunk panel, looks sooo much better than black paint board they had

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Started the trunk sound paneling:

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Just have to make the rear shelf assembly for the speakers and brake light holder ( adding a 3rd brake light to the car)

That Dynamat stuff is pretty nice. Works really well, and doesn't weigh that much. It really makes the car sound solid. A nice dead thud sound. Good for low frequencies and no more rattling panels.

More wiring crap next weekend.
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  #54  
Old 04-26-2015, 10:01 PM
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Update:

More wiring stuff. It takes a while to lay everything out and make custom panels to hold everything.

Tire clearance is still good with the carriage bolts.

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Factory rear trunk carpet for the wheel bumps. Pretty rare I believe. Lucky to have got these with the black carpet I bought for the car.

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Circuit breaker panel made and carpeted.

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Ford Starting Solenoid being used to bypass the breaker for starting.

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Driver side Carpet

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Made the a new cover plate out of aluminum for the sender unit access panel.

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It's the little things that make a difference and take time. The trunk will look 100x better with them.

More Next weekend.
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  #55  
Old 07-22-2015, 01:09 AM
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Another long time since updated... Busy with things, but this project is close to being down.

Couple things, the wiring is back in the car and fixed. The stock harness was in bad shape. That is now repaired. As that was being worked on, the stereo was also being worked on.

Here is the custom door lock switch I made.

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Power locks are nice to have.



Anyways, the stereo project:

Rear shelf being made



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Still have to make the rear cover for that to hide them and the 3rd brake light.

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Made a new gasket for the air box and fuel dist.

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Making the sub box

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Cutting the lower mounting surface

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Carpeting

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It has .83 cubic foot box volumn. and is made of 18mm Baltic birch plywood.



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It is a 10" woofer

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This AMP is now where the sub amp goes. The 4 channel amp is on the lower piece below the sub amp (not pictured).

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  #56  
Old 07-22-2015, 01:16 AM
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Fitting the unit

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The rear power center

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Making the rear Shelf covers

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These have been painted, carpet'd and fiberglass'd. Now I am making my mounting bracket for them.

Finished the wiring and stuff in here...

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And look what finally showed up today.

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It took a couple years, but finally here. Now I can start the new motor for the car.
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  #57  
Old 07-27-2015, 06:45 AM
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Ooo, shiny!!!

Forged pistons and connecting rods?
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  #58  
Old 07-27-2015, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
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Ooo, shiny!!!

Forged pistons and connecting rods?

Yep. From RSI. They are for the 16v turbo motor shown in this thread somewhere. Going to stick that motor in this car eventually.


Here are a few more from the testing and fitting.


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  #59  
Old 09-15-2015, 02:14 AM
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Update:

The rear speaker stuff is basically done. I just have to do the ground wires for the amps and head unit, and then make a board to close it off... maybe.


Ground wires are just put there. not staying like that.


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Wheels are on now. Just have to order new studs and spacers to align the back

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Plenty of room. too large of a spacer. going to use a smaller one.

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Fronts are out a little too much. going to pull it in.

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Before rolling and spacing out the back

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  #60  
Old 09-15-2015, 02:22 AM
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After Rolling and testing:

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No rolling on the fronts.

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Yes it rubs this far out in the rear. It will not stay here. It will move in slightly. Stiff suspension and solid mounts, the axle has no sloppy movements.

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The passenger side fender was a mess. So much rust. It rolled but some was cut out and now I have to fill it and under coat it again.

But, It is basically done for now till I get the new studs and spacers for the back.


The suspension alignment has not been done yet either, so it will have even more clearance in the front once the camber and toe is adjusted.

The brakes are bleed, rotors are cleaned. Ready to drive it almost.

Oh, and after a month of problems with wiring, bad parts, messed up distributor and fuel distributor, and messing with dirty injectors: This happened.







It runs super rich. The Injectors are at a friends shop being cleaned right now. There is some nasty rattle. I have to check that out. There are some possible causes, but I haven't run the car long enough to find out the part rattling. Have to check the cam for wear. The idle is way to high. Car will hopefully be running better We rebuilt the fuel distributor, and it works pretty well now. Have Excellent pressure and everything is back in spec. Going to tune it next weekend.

This engine is interesting. Stubborn little guy. But I plan to keep it for a while. I'm going to add a supercharger to it. should be a fun, reliable power plant till I finish my 16 turbo motor.

Last edited by TIPSP; 09-15-2015 at 02:57 AM.
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