1984 245- Can you identify this fuel problem?
 

So much typing to likely receive only one, maybe two responses. Ugh. Anyways, here is the deal...

On Day 2 of the car not starting.

Just finished replacing oil pan gasket, trans pan gasket, valve cover gasket, new bosch platinum spark plugs. Put everything back right and now she won't start. Double and triple checked my work, everything is right.

Can feel outer fuel pump turn on, make noise, and send fuel. Disconnected fuel line past fuel filter and fuel shot out of the line. (Doesn't this tell me the fuel pumps are fine and so is the filter?)

Ignition coil wire when taken off distributor shows a impressive spark- that's fine. All 4 plugs are fine.

25 amp fuse is fine, not blown. All other fuses are good, not blown.

Both fuel relays I can hear and feel them turn on under the passenger side dash.

Here's the kicker....

Took the air cover thing off the intake, sprayed starting fluid in, friend turned key, and she started and ran for 2 seconds, then of course cut off.

What's my problem? And also, please be specific and thorough, and if you say to test something make sure to tell me what to use to test it, and also how to test. Please don't assume I know these things.

Thanks !!

crank it over and try to start it, then see if you smell any fresh gas fumes at the tailpipe. if not, odds are you're not getting fuel to the cylinders

is that an LH2.2 or a KE-Jetronic setup? if its LH2.2 (electronic ignition, with wires to each injector), I'd be checking to see if the injectors are getting pulsed when you crank it over.. might take a test light or something to do this. there's a bunch more tests for LH2.2 systems here on the 7xx/9xx faq (same basic engine) Engine Tune and Performance

I dunno anything about debugging KE-Jetronic, my one car with that system never failed. Jetronic is a CIS-E (Constant Injection) system where the injector fuel pressure is regulated by a fuel distributor thing with a hydraulic system that is activated by an air flap.

Try turning the engine over again a few more times and then pull one of the spark plugs. Look at it to see if it is wet. If it is dry then you need to go back through the fuel system and see what is not working. If you have fuel on the plugs then you have no spark but considering you started with starter fluid it sounds like a fuel problem.

Yeah, hopefully the plugs are just flooded.

The fuel pump relays clicked twice or just once? You can run power directly to the fuel pump from the panel and see if it runs, then you can rule out fuel...then you know you either have bad relays or intermittent power/spark (ignition module) for sure. But first unplug the MAF and try starting. You might need a friend to work the throttle or just try and feather the pedal. If car runs without the MAF plugged in then you have a bad MAF...

To all that have replied, I tried several things that you all said.

I disconnected MAF sensor, car still did not run. Rule that out.

Took another test of the spark plugs using a spark plug tester this time, and every plug in fact gets plenty of spark.

Removed spark plugs and I do not think they were EVER flooded, as a slight aroma of gasoline is present, but none of the plugs have any trace of wetness.

Now that I can pretty much rule out ignition system, and spark, and timing belt, I am left to believe it almost has to be a fuel problem, especially since the car was running quite well thet last time it was driven just before I decided to give it maintenance. Also, I replaced a couple of vacuum lines that were cut.

To the person who mentioned that it may be the injectors not getting pulse, I plan to try to test this next.

I am going to buy a test light (noid light), but how do I get the electrical wire plugs off each injector? I tried using a flat head screwdriver but they would not come off............................................... ....................?????

Also- Yes, the fuel relays click twice.............


I guess I could check the fuel pump by wiring it straight from the panel, but I have know idea how to do that or what to use.. please be thorough.

I assume you mean fuse panel under the steering wheel next to the door?
And what do I use, how do I do this test?

PLEASE BE THOROUGH!!!

If your plugs are dry, you're not getting fuel to the cylinders, so we can start looking for EFI problems.

I'd probably just jam the test probes down the wires on the injectors. on a 84 240, green-white should be the pulses to ground coming right off the ECU, yellow-red goes to the fuel pump relay (so is hot when the engine is on and the fuel pump is running)

I'm thinking either the injectors aren't getting the 12V from the pump relay, or they aren't being told to open by being grounded by the fuel system ECU (as stated by others).

A 84 non-turbo uses the LH 2.0 fuel system.

If the injectors are opening then you should see flashes from your noid light. If you don't have flashes then during cranking see if you have battery voltage on the yellow/red wires that run to the injectors. If you don't have voltage on the y/r then will want to check if the fuel ECU is getting power.

I'm curious, what is that wiring diagram out of? its much MUCH easier to read than the ungodly mess in the bentley 240 book. Is that from an older generation Greenbook or something?

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Before you hot wire your pump, make sure you didn't disconnect or break your main ground strap in your engine compartment. Maybe you disconnected it when doing your valve cover gasket or other work? Not real likely unless you changed the intake manifold gasket but you never know...After you check that, yes just run wire from the fuse panel directly to the fuel pump. Just tie the hot wire from the panel to the wire coming in from the pump(yellow wire). This will keep your pump on. If car still does not start with pump running and fuel pressure is good you can rule pump out. Just make sure to disconnect wire from panel so fuel pump soea not continuously run..Like I said it could still be a faulty ignition module also could be computer temp sensor or ECU or....or...or. Without properly testing the car with the right tools diagnosing over the internet is like doing heart surgery in the dark..not very efficient. I have 2 suggestions 1. Get a Bentley manual and diagnosing tools 2. Have car towed to a Volvo specialist.

Just got a heavy duty circuit tester tests up to 12 volts......

First though, one quick note:

When I turn the key over I noticed dash lights appear. There is Brake Failure Light- I just replaced the brakes and rotors though (disregard). Overdrive Light- Solenoid wire is cut I checked and knew this when I got the car, but I got the bypass plate from IPD that will get installed as soon as this starting problem is resolved.

The one that is peculiar, though, is the light that says Lambda-Sond. What is this and is this why the car is not starting?


Back to the Fuel injector tests and stuff.......
Okay so I attached a copy of what I see at the injector site. I only see 2 wires that connect to each injector.

Do I just turn the key and touch the wires with the circuit tester needle prong thing?

Also, where is the ECU (electrical control unit) located? What does it look like? Pictures?

Thanks all for the quick responses. Really appreciate the help and think I should be getting close to identifying and resolving my problem.

I think I'd be doing the blinky-light-on-the-injectors test first, as thats simpler.

oh. on my 87 240, the injector plugs have a spring clip you have to fully press in before you can unplug them. this spring-clip is on the valve cover side of the plugs, and you press it into the connector, then wiggle/pull the connector out. I guess you can't see the wire colors behind the rubber cover


if the injectors are getting pulsed, then we're at the point where a fuel pressure test would be in order, and this requires volvo specific adapters... basically, you disconnect the fuel line from the skinny pipe off the fuel rail, and the pressure gauge is installed inline, then you run the pump. you should see ~ 44 PSI pressure above the manifold pressure (which would be 0psi if the engine isn't running). I'd suggest getting the car to a euro import specialist who'd have these adapters.

Although I am about to test the pulse to the fuel injectors, for what it's worth I must add:

Yesterday I disconnected the female adapter going into the male on the ignition module. Gave both ends a visual inspection. I'm not sure what to make of the inspection, but here is what I noticed.....

The female plug where the wires all end was alarming. It has these holes that are like lined with metal (obviously for making contact with the male plug) and there was what appeared to be some type of "goop" or "lube-like substance" on the plug and even inside the tiny little holes (there is like 10 holes - 2 rows of 5 holes. Another thing that caught my eye was that two of these holes were a lot wider than the others and the metal lining looked like it was down further in the hole- as oppossed to at the tip of the hole like the others. I cleaned up the "goop" with a razor to get into the holes just enough to remove the "goop".

The male connector actually on the module with the 10 prongs was a bit dirty, but nothing really concerning.

So, the ignition module female connector appeared possibly defective. But this is not the problem right? I mean, I don't think it is the problem considering it must have worked when I started the car with starting fluid.....

someone please provide some perspective~ Pulling my hair out!

when you turn on the car, before you start it, ALL the idiot lights are supposed to light up so you know the lights work. when you start the car, they should all go out. lamda-sond is the oxygen sensor, the car will start and run OK without it, its required for passing smog tests and keeping your fuel economy optimized.

to test the injectors, someone will have to crank the starter while you have the test probe connected to the two prongs (eg, ground clip on one and the needle point on the other, if its that sort of tester). when you crank the car over, and connect the probe between the two pins, it should blink.

the ECU is under your dash somewhere, the exact location varies by year. I've only dealt with somewhat newer ones so someone else familiar with circa 1984 LH2.0 systems will have to clue you in...

oh. that goop you removed is dielectric grease, its in there to prevent water from getting into the connector and corroding things.

and I'm with whomever suggested checking the ground straps etc. if it was working, and you were dinking with something and now its not working, thats the first place to look....

Just ruled out the injector pulse, but I'm not sure that's much of a success for me. Removed electrical plugs containing wires from each injector at once. Applied test light, turned key, and every one gave me a good light. ...

I have ruled out quite a bit thus far if you've read the entire thread.

I guess a fuel pressure test would be in line at this juncture, but I just don't think it's going to happen. No way to tow, no money to pay expensive shop fees. .

After all, couldn't I just buy a new in-tank pre pump and say to hell with even testing the pressure? I mean, if pressure is bad isn't everyone going to tell me that my in-tank pump is probably bad?

Any advice is at a premium in my eyes..........................

The ECU is located on passenger side plastic behind kick panel on far right side(next to where your right leg is when sitting in passenger seat.
You must remove black plastic guard and pull black rubber strip from bottom to top and then you should be able to remove panel. ECU is bolted to bracket by 2 phillips screws against inner fender well. The harness that plugs into ECU can be removed by taking pressure off clip and pulling down from top to bottom then slightly up because there is a hook on the bottom of connector that needs to go up and over. Kind of hard to explain but you'll see when you remove just take it slow. You should have the green lable ECU which is notorius for going bad.

Crank position sensor top of bellhousing.