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ahah! found ONE reference to what I said about accessory harnesses etc.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_J...1%20PM.bmp.jpg note that there's a factory harness along the driver side door sills, hence they likely don't want aftermarket stuff run there. even if you don't have front door speakers, a late model 740 will have the wiring already in place and run to the harness connector that plugs into the stereo. the ABS wiring goes along the passenger side door sill, so stay away from that too. I mentioned how to remove the door panels... the in dash speakers are also some pretty high quality 2-ways, to remove them on a 740, carefully pry off the smooth black trim strip thats on the near side, then use needle-nose pliers to gently pull the plastic pin out of the middle of the expansion plugs and remove the expansion plugs, then lift up the back of the plate and slide it back to unhook the tabs on the back side. trying to pry off that grill any other way will destroy it. you'll find the in-dash speakers *are* the panel, all one piece, so replacing those with aftermarket tweeters or whatever will require some hackery. I think I'd fab a flush tweeter mount from some masonite or something and glue to to the back of the factory panel, after cutting off the factory speaker. I might even try and find a couple replacement speakers from a junkyard and hack on those instead of my originals. but again, these factory speakers, hooked up to a decent indash deck, sound very good at any reasonable volume level. BTW, the front door and dash speakers are wired separately to the harness connectors, so you could biamp or use a external crossover if you are replacing both. |
OH. there's a few tricks to removing the door panels on the 700 and early 900's*, and I've seen way too many that show signs of having been abused by folks who didn't know this.
first, remove the lock knob by unscrewing, and pry out and pull straight back the red 'window' on the courtesy light. remove the door speaker grill by sliding it straight 'forward'. remove the plastic 1/4 turn clip thats in the door handle pocket, lift the window control panel about 3/4" and remove the plastic trim entirely (yes it comes out, yes its a little fragile and often is broken by doing this wrong... good news is, you can often piece it back together and get by with this trim piece somewhat broken. now, with all that off, under hte bottom of the door panel are 3 rectangular openings, inside each of these is a white plastic clip. you need to pull those clips straight down when they are level, i find a small screwdriver does the trick but only after you know what it looks like. the clip has a flat bottom which should be level, and there's a 'T' head pin sticking out of the door that this clip goes over, you want to insert the screwdriver around the center of the clip so it pries the clip straight down. Do the middle one first as its the least important if you mangle it :D once you have all three of these clips out and all the rest of what I described, the bottom of the door panel should swing inwards and the panel is hanging from some clips up by the window, so lift it off those clips til it comes free, then unplug the connector for the courtesy light, and the speaker connector if the speaker is installed in the door panel. you can get all the various plastic pins as replacement items, fairly cheap, from any dealer parts counter, I highly recommend replacing any that are broken, ditto the clips etc. the only one thats expensive is the speaker grills and the trim around the door handles to reinstall the door panel, hook up the electrical connectors, hang the top on the window frame, fit it around all the pins, reinstall the bottom clips first, then the door handle trim, rear-facing courtesy light, speaker grill, and lock knob. * - later 900's have a different door panel with the speaker at the bottom rather than near the dashboard. I haven't taken one of these off. |
Originally Posted by pierce
(Post 257689)
re: wiring amps etc in the back... I've always run my wiring down the driver side door sill, between the carpet and the frame. SOMEwhere in the Volvo literature on the 700/900 series, I saw something suggesting routing the wiring down the passenger side of the center hump, which sounds like a great idea, but I don't quite see how to do it without removing the passenger seat entirely. And, now of course, I can't find this reference that explained it. I know the front seats come out with just 4 bolts to the floor but they are damn heavy to move.
I've got a little amp in the back of my previous wagon that I want to transplant to my new one, this amp runs a small sub box thats designed to be removable. I also need to run trailer power wiring (700/900 cars make decent tugs for up to about a 3000 lb trailer, especially if you use FCP or IPD's overload springs in the back). Frankly, most indash stereos nowdays have sufficient power to run your 4 main speakers for anything short of competition volumes. I don't really like having to run line level all the way to the back then the speaker wires all the way forwards again. I'm pretty sure on the early-version 960 I was under the dash that if you removed the factory amp, there's room for a moderate sized after market amp (just watch out for the SRS wiring!). I wish a/d/s still made their Plate series of digital amps, those things were tiny and packed a big punch, seems like all you find now are these ridiculous sci-fi/anime inspired things with flashing lights and stupid colored plastic fins. |
Originally Posted by swiftjustice44
(Post 257626)
You'll know if it hasn't...
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Originally Posted by pierce
(Post 257696)
OH. there's a few tricks to removing the door panels on the 700 and early 900's*, and I've seen way too many that show signs of having been abused by folks who didn't know this.
first, remove the lock knob by unscrewing, and pry out and pull straight back the red 'window' on the courtesy light. remove the door speaker grill by sliding it straight 'forward'. remove the plastic 1/4 turn clip thats in the door handle pocket, lift the window control panel about 3/4" and remove the plastic trim entirely (yes it comes out, yes its a little fragile and often is broken by doing this wrong... good news is, you can often piece it back together and get by with this trim piece somewhat broken. now, with all that off, under hte bottom of the door panel are 3 rectangular openings, inside each of these is a white plastic clip. you need to pull those clips straight down when they are level, i find a small screwdriver does the trick but only after you know what it looks like. the clip has a flat bottom which should be level, and there's a 'T' head pin sticking out of the door that this clip goes over, you want to insert the screwdriver around the center of the clip so it pries the clip straight down. Do the middle one first as its the least important if you mangle it :D once you have all three of these clips out and all the rest of what I described, the bottom of the door panel should swing inwards and the panel is hanging from some clips up by the window, so lift it off those clips til it comes free, then unplug the connector for the courtesy light, and the speaker connector if the speaker is installed in the door panel. you can get all the various plastic pins as replacement items, fairly cheap, from any dealer parts counter, I highly recommend replacing any that are broken, ditto the clips etc. the only one thats expensive is the speaker grills and the trim around the door handles to reinstall the door panel, hook up the electrical connectors, hang the top on the window frame, fit it around all the pins, reinstall the bottom clips first, then the door handle trim, rear-facing courtesy light, speaker grill, and lock knob. * - later 900's have a different door panel with the speaker at the bottom rather than near the dashboard. I haven't taken one of these off. |
Originally Posted by rspi
(Post 257630)
Glad to have you. Yikes! Sorry to know that your 1st Volvo is 19 years old. Hope you get some use out of it.
I had a '87 740 with the B280 motor. I use to change the timing belt every 75k and never had a problem. The car had over 400,000 on it when I let a single mom have it. It looked and ran real good. I'm not sure about the newer model motors as for the t-belt. I believe they have 16 valves and may have damage if the belt breaks. re: swiftjustice's crack, I think he's suggesting that it would fail sooner rather than later if it hadn't been replaced. on these engines, when it fails, you just coast to a stop, and its quite easy to repair, one of the easiest timing belts of any car to access, really. in truth, Volvo's belt recommendations are extremely conservative. And, I think its 60 or 70K on a 740/940 with the b230f or b230ft, not 50K but I could be wrong. |
I kinda figured that's what he was getting at ;) But I had to ask. As soon as I get ahold of all the receipts and talk to the car's mechanic I'll go from there
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