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1993 240 starts when parked inside, will not start when parked outside and it’s 10* f
I bought this car a month ago from a kid who inherited it from his grandpa/original owner. The car is in excellent shape 160k miles.
ive been reading many threads and typical 240 issues. 1993 245 manual trans. mix matched spark plug wires - the seller prided himself on the “tune up” haha Wet with gas spark plugs rough idle and eventually it will start misfiring/stall after it’s warmed up it will also try to stall after a 5 minute drive and Im coming to a stop Compression test was 175-183 cleaned the mas and it seemed to run a hair better. There are 2 very little pieces inside the mas that look like rocks or pieces of charcoal. it also has a hesitation at low rpm driving or in neutral. After it stalls from being warmed up I have to push the gas pedal to the floor once and then hold the pedal down 1/2 way. Also so if I unplug the mas and plug it back in with the key on it will start easier. |
The only codes it had were the mas and a rich /lean code. I assume that’s from unplugging the mas with the key on. I erased them and they haven’t come back. I bought plugs, wires, cap and rotor. the tank is almost empty and for all I know the previous owner may have dumped some bad gas from a can into the car. I’m going to fill the car up today and test the fuel pressure. also thinking/hoping it might be temp sensor The more I test drive this car the more I want to use it as a commuter. Any help is greatly appreciated! |
+10F should not be a problem with a good battery. see what happens with new plugs cap etc
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Dumped 5 gallons in it. It warmed up above freezing today. So either adding 5 gallons of gas or the temp being above freezing let it start. I took it for a 5 mile drive. It hesitates and will mis fire with any lugging . Higher rpm shifts it still misses but not as badly. I’ll throw the cap , rotor, plugs and wires on in the morning. Almost feels like it’s starving for fuel. I don’t have a preside gauge that will fit on the test port. Maybe I’ll do a little road trip to the parts store and use their gauge |
Video after the 5 mile drive |
if cleaning the maf helped i might be tempted to just replace it...
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The throttle body looked pretty dirty. I’m headed into my shop now to throw the new plugs and stuff on. There is a constant buzzing from one of the fuel pumps I can hear while the car is running. Where would you recommend to buy a new maf? I’m in AK so I pretty much have to order a sensor if I go to the parts store or not. |
MAF's are expensive new. Sometimes you can find them used on e-bay. You should only use oem not aftermarket, but the MAF may not be faulty
at all. Would try your other planned maintenance first. Constant buzzing sound may be the main fuel pump going out. I do not hear that in my car, only hear a whine for a couple of seconds when the key is turned to position 2 before starting, which is normal. |
Now it won’t even start. I triple checked the firing order , the plugs are getting spark, number 1 was wet with gas, the old ones actually looked good. I got it to run for a few seconds with the pedal floored but it was rough and died when I let off the starter. Just finished cleaning out the throttle body. The hose from under the manifold has a bit of grime in it. The little switch clicks as soon as the linkage is moved. I didn’t find any cracks in the hoses between the maf and tb. What is the relay next to the battery ? There is a hole rubbed into the cover and it was not attached to the inner fender. Maybe after a few more posts I can attach some pics |
Hooked some jumper cables to it and it fired right up, runs a little smoother but there is still a mis and it is very noticeable if I shift when the light indicates to shift -low rpms I guess, at wide open higher rpm shifts it starts to break up also. After about 10 min of back and forth driving in front of my shop on the highway the missing became worse and it finally stalled and won’t re start. I did have the heater and headlights on so maybe the battery or charging system is causing it to run poorly. It did sound better when the jumper cables were connected |
did the car restart when cold after a jump? First thing I'd do is separate out your issues. As soon as you get the car started, put a voltmeter on it. If you are seeing 14V or so, rule out the alternator as a problem. The battery will only be in play if the car doesn't turn over fast enough on a cold day. Next is to work through the spark/fuel issues. If you've already changed wires/cap/rotor/plugs, then you need to work through the mixture issues. Have you measured the impedance of the engine coolant temp sensor? Have you inspected or cleaned the idle air valve (this acts like a choke to stabilize the idle and help enrich the mixture for cold starts). Next is to consider the MAF as well as other intake air paths and lines for vacuum leaks. The fact that it changes as the car warms up would lead me to wonder about the temp sensor or the MAF...
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After sitting on the side of the road at 13* it fired up and did not mis (with the lights and heater off )until I drove a mile back to my shop. I flipped heater and lights back on and it start missing more. I have a digital volt meter but that is one area I’m lacking skills - testing resistance , sensors etc. I rebuild dodge tranny’s, turbochargers, a couple big block Chevy marine motors , and rebuilt one Wrx motor. I’d like to daily this 245 |
first thing I'd check is the system voltage with the engine running, and with all the lights and heater fan on... I'd probably do this at the positive terminal, which on a 240 is a little flat black box on the relay bracket under the hood on the left fender.... it has a pile of red wires coming out of it, and nearly everything, including the ignition switch, gets its power from there....
is this one of the late 93's that have a fuse block with 3-4 fuses right on the battery + cable ? all the other 240s have a single ATC (blade) fuse on a red wire off the battery + post for the fuel injection stuff, and everything else is fused elsewhere... everything under the dash is grounded on either side of the transmission hump, just forward of the shifter... one side (I think the left?) is used mostly for power stuff, and the other side (the right?) is used for the sensitive signal stuff like the ECU, ICU. |
I’ll check to see which 93’ it is. According the Vin it’s not the 3.1 i just got back from another test drive - I unplugged the mas and it ran much better. No missing, smooth, stable idle. I plugged it back in while it was running and the idle increased and the car died after a couple minutes and doesn’t want to re start |
14 volts when running measured at the battery. Car died on the road back to my place. I have some jumpers hooked to it right now . I’ll look up the method for testing the temp sensor and iac |
the late 93's fuse block looks like this, pretty hard to miss.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/volvofo...fb7accb549.jpg |
Originally Posted by AK240
(Post 467304)
<div style="text-align:left;">I’ll check to see which 93’ it is. According the Vin it’s not the 3.1<br /><br />i just got back from another test drive - I unplugged the mas and it ran much better. No missing, smooth, stable idle. I plugged it back in while it was running and the idle increased and the car died after a couple minutes and doesn’t want to re start</div><br />
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Well after I unplugged it and it ran better I went on a couple mile drive then plugged it back in while running to see if there was a noticeable change in how it ran. The idle increased and I went on another couple mile drive then it start missing terribly and stalled out and dieseled. After that no start with jumpers , maf plugged in , unplugged , could not clear the obd codes. I did this before I read about not messing with the plugs while it’s running. Oops hopefully I didn’t hurt the ecu |
do you remember which exact codes it was throwing before you erased them?
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Maf no signal, rich/lean - after I unplugged the maf and ran it |
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