1993 volvo 240
 

i have a question i am not getting fire to my plugs and also im not getting any fuel please help me it is the only car me and my family have and we are puzzled and lost someone please help us i have replaced ignition module,distibutor cap,rotor button,plugs and wires,coil,and throttle body position sensor as well as crankshaft positioning sensor still will not get fuel or spark also my number 4 fuse which is the fuel pump fuse in my fuse box is not getting any power at all what can i do about that also?

1993 volvo 240
 

and also where is the ballast resistor located?

The problem with the "shotgun" approach to part replacing is, how do we now know what is the cause of your no-start? One may ASSUME that all that you did not cause any harm, but how do you know? Obviously you don't. Now you have to retrace all your steps...

Did you run the OBD codes?

How did this start? Did the car just quit, didn't start one day, what? Did it run poorly and you decided to get out the "parts shotgun"? You need to diagnose the problem first!

You have replaced the "ignition module"? The computer? Hmm...
Do you have compression?
Is your timing belt in place and not missing teeth? Gas?

I assume you are not getting any fuel pressure because like you said fuse #4 has no power

check your fuel pump relay
att 12 volts to the fuel pump directly, see if it kicks on

as for the spark
check that relay as well

lastly check the timing belt, if thats broken you aren't going anywhere anyway and I don't recall on this one but most cars, if the cam and crank rent in sync then there will be no spark at all

the fuel pump only gets power for about 1 second when you first turn the ignition on, then is switched off until the engine is cranked over (as sensed by the crank position sensor). about a second after it stops cranking, the fuel pump stops again.

so, you might have not seen this if you read the voltage after the ignition switch had been in II (run) for more than a second without any cranking...

with 240's, you can test the fuel pump by jumpering power to fuse 4. fuses 6-10 should have 'always on' power, so thats a handy place to jump. With the ignition switched off, if you REMOVE fuse 4, and jumper just the right prong to power, it shoudl power only the in-tank pump. if you power just the left prong, it should power only the main under-the-car pump. See http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm for some pics of doing this using a paper clip :) I prefer using a jumper wire with small alligator clips on both ends.