New member with a problem!

I have a 1990 240 wagon and have just changed the timing belt, seals and water pump. I was very careful to align the registration marks on the timing belt change; I checked three times, and a fourth after cranking the engine and hand-cranking to check for alignment.

The machine won't start. Any clues would be appreciated.

KBird

 

Second check for anything you possibly left unhooked/disconnected. If still a no-go after verifying anything you may have unplugged then you need to 100% verify that when your crank pulley is at the mark that your piston #1 piston is at tdc.

 

Thanks for the reply Pooky85. I have verified the alignment of the timing marks four times; assuming the diagram at the following link is correct:
· Volvo B230 Timing Marks ·

When the belt was finally installed with the lower belt cover and the crank pulley on, the hash mark on the pulley read exactly on the zero mark indicated on the lower timing belt cover. The other two pulleys where exactly to mark. I cranked the motor several times, and then hand-cranked the crank pulley back to the zero mark on the lower cover--everything was still aligned. I did ignore the lower mark on the timing belt itself, in favor of the mark indicated by the diagram on the link I provided.

I'll search for anything I may have dismantled, but the only wiring I purposely dismantled was the negative terminal connection at the battery.

What is "TDC"?

Thanks again for taking the time to reply. I really appreciate it.

Kbird

 

Apparently the link to the timing diagram was lost in translation; I'll try again:
· Volvo B230 Timing Marks ·)

 

TDC = top dead center of piston #1.

Yes, those pictures show the correct alignment but for the crank it is usually better to go by the keyway slot and not the timming mark of the pulley, because the pulley outer half can slip on the rubber that connects it to the inner section.

I would check the timing next with a timing light ... or a least check for spark from one of the plug wires.

 

Thanks for the confirmation Bubba240.

I did use the key slot, but I thought I was on to something good when the crank pulley mark lined exactly with the lower timing belt cover. I tore it down to check my work on the alignment, and it was on according to the photo you confirmed as correct.

Just my rotten luck it didn't fire right back up. I'll go forward with your other suggestions.

Thanks for your reply.

Kbird

 

Strange things can happen when doing engine work. You are sure your timing is spot on, so check any wiring you may have disturbed.
I remember working on a 351C I had in an F100, put a new cam, intake etc on it. Damn thing wouldn't start afterwards, it would pop, almost run, back fire etc. I rechecked everything so many times it wasn't funny.
Finally I put new spark plug leads on it...the old ones were so ancient, the mere act of removing them to get to the engine damaged the carbon cores.
On an EFI engine, ensure sensors like crank angle sensor haven't been disturbed. Also check the distributor rotor aligns with cap ( I know it should if it's the head mounted distributor, but you gotta check).

 

The crank gear has the key cast in. There have been cases of the key shearing and not being noticed.
Spark and fuel checks...
Ed

 

Thanks for the input Typhoon and ed7.

I did not have much time to work on the gem today, but tomorrow I will sport the rubber gloves and get down to business again. I can't let this beat me! It is way down on my list of rubber which will actually roll down the road, so I have time--I hope I have the patience!

Thanks again gentlemen. I'll let everyone know what I find, when I find it.

Kbird

 

Go back to basics. Check for spark and fuel. Make sure the fuel pumps are working and you have spark . Pull a spark plug and see if it is wet. Move timing marks to TDC and check where distributor rotor is pointing. Look in oil fill cap and make sure that cyl. #1 had both valves closed. It's got to be a simple problem. Good luck

 

Thanks for the input Jagtoes, I finally got it!

This is what I found, I think:

I have owned the car for nearly three years. I purchased it with 106,000 miles, with a dealer maintenance history to 50,000 miles and 1996; thereafter, no records.

1) I found the distributor rotor did not line with the intermediary gear set to mark. I had to vary it by one tooth on the timing belt. This, however, was not the culprit, though it seems to run a little smoother now.

2) It was not getting fuel to plugs (thanks Jagtoes).

3) My son ran the car nearly totally out of gas when the waterpump began to leak. The first time I cranked when I thought I was finished, no start. I immediately took a can to the gas station and added two gallons, guessing the the car was now totally out of fuel. When the fuel was added, still nothing; not even a cough or sputter.

4) After racking my brain, and thinking about Jagtoe's "back to basics", I pulled the #1 spark plug and it was bone dry after cranking for about 20 seconds.

5) On a hunch, I tried some starter fluid. The beauty immediately fired right up. I ran it for about one minute and shut it off. I had to use starter fluid a second time, but thereafter, it has been running like a champ.

My best guess at the cause to my woes:

I think I have a semi-plugged fuel filter. All the signs seem to point to that: Low fuel, dry plug, fuel pump working, a little starter fluid to coax the fuel through a dirty filter?

Needless to say, I have no idea when or if the fuel filter has ever been changed. That will my next project.

Thanks to all.

Kbird

 

I told you, it's always something! Never assume anything! Glad it's sorted out.

 

It may be worth cutting the filter open to see what's inside. My car is on it's second filter in 224k miles, and it never had a problem. So you may want to find out if there is something in particular that could be clogging it up. There could be some crap in the tank.

 

You have a bad fuel pump.

 

Thanks Titan Joe & Tony1963.

Is it a big job to change the fuel pump? Is it necessary to drop the fuel tank to change the pump located in it? I read there was an access through the storage area inside the rear of the car, but I check that on my 1990 and there is no access from that point.

Thanks.

Kbird

 

its behind the back seat, under the panel flaps, I believe. flip up the back seat lowers, put the seatback down and lift those flaps on the floor that cover the gap, there should be a few bolts under them that hold them in place, remove those bolts, and remove the flaps. NOW you should see the access plate.

on a 740/940, its darn near easier to drop the tank than it is to actually fish the in-tank pump and fuel level sending unit out and replace it. but I think 240's are a little different.

note that in tank pump is NOT the primary pump... the primary injection pump is under the car, just forward of the gas tank, along with the fuel filter.

oh, if your car has "Regina" (aka Rex) ignition, then you probably don't have an in-tank fuel pump, just the external one (or wait, is it the other way around? arrrrgh, check the FAQ's).

 

Just replace the fuel filter. It's done it's job and filtered the fuel for who knows how long. Little things like this make a car reliable, so it's well worth doing.
On an old car, you can safely assume the filter has never been replaced. No one ever does it.

 

Really? Just you have a bad fuel pump? Nothing else?


You have a bad ball joint and you need a power steering flush...thought that would help.