89 240, no fuel to engine during start
no mo volvo
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From: 37 North on the left coast
fuel pressure can be tesgted with a fuel pressure gauge.
air ducting can be visually inspected.
first thing I'd do is check for error codes on the LH2.4 diagnostic block, both pin 2 (injection) and pin 6 (ignition). either inadequate fuel pressure or too much air from intake air leaks would cause a lean running condition, and the diagnostics would show a code for that.
air ducting can be visually inspected.
first thing I'd do is check for error codes on the LH2.4 diagnostic block, both pin 2 (injection) and pin 6 (ignition). either inadequate fuel pressure or too much air from intake air leaks would cause a lean running condition, and the diagnostics would show a code for that.
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Okay, returning to post some updates.
So about a month or so ago, the engine completely blew up while I was driving on the highway. Gigantic crack in the side of the block. Anyways, I have a donor engine ready to go, and I'm about to pull the cracked one.
What are things I should do to the donor engine while I have it out on a stand? So far I got:
Would it be worth cracking the engine open and doing some other maintenance things, like cam/crankshaft seals, head gasket, valve dampeners, etc? I feel like it might be wise since I have the engine in a pretty easy spot to work on, but if the seals and gaskets are known for going a while (the donor engine has about 100k on the clock), then I might pass on the complete engine rebuild and just throw it in the car.
So about a month or so ago, the engine completely blew up while I was driving on the highway. Gigantic crack in the side of the block. Anyways, I have a donor engine ready to go, and I'm about to pull the cracked one.
What are things I should do to the donor engine while I have it out on a stand? So far I got:
- timing belt
- water pump
- exhaust manifold and header pipe gaskets
- injector seals
- engine mounts
- crankcase ventilation
- normal tune up stuff (plugs, filters, etc)
Would it be worth cracking the engine open and doing some other maintenance things, like cam/crankshaft seals, head gasket, valve dampeners, etc? I feel like it might be wise since I have the engine in a pretty easy spot to work on, but if the seals and gaskets are known for going a while (the donor engine has about 100k on the clock), then I might pass on the complete engine rebuild and just throw it in the car.
Last edited by whelderwheels613; May 25, 2018 at 08:26 PM.
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While the engine is out I would certainly check the rear main crankshaft seal and replace it if there is any signs of leakage since the engine must be removed to replace it. Same goes for the transmission front shaft seal.
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If it doesn't start with both pumps running, I wouldn't jump on the ECU. A failed ECU would keep the pumps from running.
You say the car sat for a while. When you replaced the main pump, did you replace the filter? Any gunk from the tank will get caught in the filter and may clog it.
If it were me, I would do some diagnosis first. Check to see if you are getting pulses at the injectors. I have in the past used an LED with a 680 ohm resistor across the injector to see pulses. You need to make sure that the polarity is correct for the LED to light. Just try it one way and then the other. If you don't get pulses at the injector then it won't start and I would diagnose from there.
If you are getting pulses, you might want to verify the fuel pressure at the rail. You need a tester for this and may have to adapt some fittings. The tester can be borrowed from and Autozone or Oreillys.
You say the car sat for a while. When you replaced the main pump, did you replace the filter? Any gunk from the tank will get caught in the filter and may clog it.
If it were me, I would do some diagnosis first. Check to see if you are getting pulses at the injectors. I have in the past used an LED with a 680 ohm resistor across the injector to see pulses. You need to make sure that the polarity is correct for the LED to light. Just try it one way and then the other. If you don't get pulses at the injector then it won't start and I would diagnose from there.
If you are getting pulses, you might want to verify the fuel pressure at the rail. You need a tester for this and may have to adapt some fittings. The tester can be borrowed from and Autozone or Oreillys.
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i jumped the relay having the same problems and the car started. Bought a new relay but still having the same problems. Only one side of the relay works when starting the engine. What is the problem? Did some wire traces and everything seems ok. Replaced all the fuses and as far as I can tell they are fine( fuse 4,6, 12, and 13)
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You don't mention what year or type of vehicle you have. Some ECU's circa '89, '90 had some issues with the fuel pump circuit and would fail. They had a pink label on them. They can be replaced by a later ECU with the white label. Google volvo 240 pink label ecu and you should find out more information regarding compatible ECUs.
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Clearer discription of problem
So, I got the 87 Volvo 240 DL wagon not running. I replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump and in tank pump then found that the actual problem was the mass airflow sensor that would cause the engine to die on startup. Unplugged it, tuned the spark plugs to spec, and it started and ran and got me home. Next day when I was letting it idle for 30 min, it idled rough then died and wouldn’t start again. I found water in the fuel relay and replaced it with new. The left side of relay works and the right side of the relay doesn’t but the car will start and run when I manually connect the right side of relay. I replaced all fuses, especially 4,6 and 13 making sure their connection were free of any corrosion and they have good contacts. Any guess on what’s wrong?
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Clearer discription of problem
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2026
Posts: 5
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So, I got the 87 Volvo 240 DL wagon not running. I replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump and in tank pump then found that the actual problem was the mass airflow sensor that would cause the engine to die on startup. Unplugged it, tuned the spark plugs to spec, and it started and ran and got me home. Next day when I was letting it idle for 30 min, it idled rough then died and wouldn’t start again. I found water in the fuel relay and replaced it with new. The left side of relay works and the right side of the relay doesn’t but the car will start and run when I manually connect the right side of relay. I replaced all fuses, especially 4,6 and 13 making sure their connection were free of any corrosion and they have good contacts. Any guess on what’s wrong?
What wire is this on my 87 Volvo 240 dl wagon? Where is it supposed to lead to?
the blue wire it connects to is the main negative going to the battery.
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