I've repositioned the TPS and tested for continuity on both ends because it's not a potentiometer and now clicks like it's supposed to in idle and my check engine light went away. Every time I floor it in first the engine goes limp, but revs fine in neutral. I brake and floor it to try and regain lost power and it somewhat helps. Weirdly enough this only happens when the engine is warm. Cold starts work just fine and the engine operates smoothly. Checked spark plugs and they seem fine. Any ideas as to what my problem could be?

 

I'd look into the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAFS).

 

+1 on the AMM. This sounds almost exactly like the problem I had with the old AMM on my car.

 

Could you explain what an AMM is?

 

AMM and MAF are the same thing, two different names used interchangably.

Air Mass Meter
and
Mass Air Flow (sensor)

 

Thank you both. I will look up how to test this sensor.

 

Update:

Engine was running not as good as before when testing voltage on pins 2 and 4. Voltage was not changing until RPMs peak and lower and sure enough you could tell when it would be running rich or lean/smooth and rough. Then all of a sudden, my multimeter went haywire and the engine started running worse. I'm sure my multimeter messed up the electronics in the MAF because after this there would be no signal running through and a check engine light came on. I looked up the codes that the computer was shooting and tried to clear them by pressing them for five seconds consecutively, but no luck. Surely enough, out came a 232 and a 121; lambda - too lean or rich at idle and mass air flow sensor faulty or missing, respectively. Now, I'm in $30 for an aftermarket MAF sensor on eBay and found out that the air filter box is degrading from I presume a previous battery leak. Still functional though. I'm sure I could've gotten away with just cleaning the thing and not have bothered testing it.

TL;DR:

I messed up the MAF with my glitchy multimeter and am buying an aftermarket one for $30.

 

You cannot test the MAFS with home tools.

 

​​​​​​​Why? Everywhere else shows that you can test it with a multimeter. I'm not exactly sure what happened when testing, but I'd greatly appreciate an explanation.

 

the signal from the MAF is a very low level current on a differential pair.

good luck with a $30 aftermarket MAF, high probability of being junk.

 

Update:

Just put in the new MAF sensor. The problem is still there apparently, but at least it ran like before with no check engine light. It feels like the car lags in its response of the increasing and decreasing send of fuel. In wide open throttle, it takes a while until the motor gets the full send of fuel and when quickly letting off it starts backfiring until it cuts the fuel significantly. Any other suggestions?

 

this was the $30 chinese MAF ? like I said, good luck with that.

 

I'm getting the same performance as the OEM one that previously fried. I don't know. You could be right.

 

shut off the motor, unplug the MAF, start it back up, and if the symptoms are essentially the same, very good chance the MAF is bad.

 

You are only having this problem on WARM starts?
After a COLD start it runs well?
How long does this continue after the start?

 

So I tried this out. You're right. Start is better and faster, but seems to run leaner and immediately bogs when accelerated.

Exactly. This continues for ten minutes until it starts running bad.

I'm going to the junkyard today to pick out hopefully an OEM MAF sensor at LKQ Pick your Part in Medley, FL. It's only been there since 05/29/20 so hopefully it hasn't been completely parted.
​​​​​​​

 

Update:

The OEM MAF I found at the junkyard did not solve the problem. Same performance as the Chinese, eBay MAF. I'm going to look into changing the fuel filter because it's easy enough and the seller provided me with one. I have a suspicion that he may have known the fuel filter was the problem and had a spare, but who knows (not to badmouth him). Wish me luck.

 

Update:

Changing the fuel filter did the trick. It worked so well that it had enough torque to skip a tooth in the timing belt with my aggressive driving. It really did work for a minute. I'll be reviewing how to do proper timing on a B230 engine and seeing if it's the belt and or tensioner that need replacing.

 

Update:

New problem. I timed the engine using its markers on the belt and on the gears. Had to get a crankshaft tool and a 24mm socket to do the job. She just sounds like dog **** and is just vibrating furiously like an engine misfire. She sounds like a lawnmower. Any help?

 

um, markers on the BELT? you align the timing belt by ensuring the three pulleys' marks are aligned with the engine block marks, like this...