Aw71 to M46 plus...

  #41  
Old 07-23-2014, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by pierce
sure, loose ground can cause many things. if the fuel pumps are running after you've cranked it (they stop a second or two later), then the ICU is getting timing pulses and passing them onto the ECU, which is a good thing. so if you're not getting spark, its probably the power module or coil or distributor.

what year 240 is this? up to 1988, and after 1989 use different fuel injection ssytems, LH 2.2 vs LH 2.4.
Thanks Pierce,

Its LH 2.2, its an 86.. the fuel pumps are kicking on and stopping a second or two later. plugs are wet when i pulled them after that. Pulled my multimeter out to test the coil but looks like its also needs some maintenance. best way to test coil without multimeter? What do you mean when you say power module, the ICU? went over the grounds, everything seems correct and tight. still won't fire up though. i even tried rolling it a little because i remember on my ex's 86 after i did the wiring harness i had also a no start and one day after pushing it, it fired right up... need to take my multimeter into town and try to find those fuses..
 
  #42  
Old 07-23-2014, 02:59 PM
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on a LH2.2 240, there is no power module, there is only the dreaded Chrysler ICU, which has a /very/ funky connector thats prone to bad connections. never rock that connector if you unplug it, always pull it straight out, and be prepared to use a thin sharp tool to carefully tighten the spring blades on the socket sleeves so they'll make better contact when you plug it in. avoid unplugging it unless you really really have to. also check the condition of the vacuum line to the bellow module on the bottom of the ICU, this provides your ignition advance.

my quick test for ignition is to hook up a old fashion timing light/strobe to a sparkplug wire, and crank the car, light should go blink-blink-blink.
 
  #43  
Old 07-23-2014, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by pierce
on a LH2.2 240, there is no power module, there is only the dreaded Chrysler ICU, which has a /very/ funky connector thats prone to bad connections. never rock that connector if you unplug it, always pull it straight out, and be prepared to use a thin sharp tool to carefully tighten the spring blades on the socket sleeves so they'll make better contact when you plug it in. avoid unplugging it unless you really really have to. also check the condition of the vacuum line to the bellow module on the bottom of the ICU, this provides your ignition advance.

my quick test for ignition is to hook up a old fashion timing light/strobe to a sparkplug wire, and crank the car, light should go blink-blink-blink.
Yes dreaded is correct. Well i made some progress, re inspected a crimp i made on the plug to the Distributor, and it was not holding so well. re-crimped and tested, nice bright blue spark. But still no Vroom-Vroom just Pop Pop Pop. its sooo close though. maybe i need to unplug and plug the IAC?

thanks
 
  #44  
Old 07-23-2014, 06:35 PM
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pop pop pop sounds like its 180 out of phase or something. wrong spark plug order on the distributor ?
 
  #45  
Old 07-23-2014, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by pierce
pop pop pop sounds like its 180 out of phase or something. wrong spark plug order on the distributor ?
That is exactly what i thought, but its all lined up according to the Bently bible. the distributor was very hard to get back in though, used the bolt to pull it in the last little bit.. Ill go check the order again.
 
  #46  
Old 07-23-2014, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Bumblebeeman
That is exactly what i thought, but its all lined up according to the Bently bible. the distributor was very hard to get back in though, used the bolt to pull it in the last little bit.. Ill go check the order again.

Nope all the wires are hooked up right. now it seems like its not getting enough fuel.
 
  #47  
Old 07-23-2014, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Bumblebeeman
Nope all the wires are hooked up right. now it seems like its not getting enough fuel.
Could the injectors have gotten gunnked up? seems like that wouldn't cause a no start, just a poor idle.

Im going out of town next week but I'm going to try and get my multimeter working so i can figure this out..

Anyone have any ideas? It is soo close to starting, Pop-pop and i cn smell fuel, i didn't pull every single plug and make sure they were wet but #1 was.

if its sparking then the grounds should all be good, correct?

thanks
 
  #48  
Old 07-24-2014, 03:31 PM
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Well i was hoping that i would have a stroke of luck and that i had installed the distributor with the timing so far advanced that it was causing a no start. that does not seem to have been the issue. But I'm going to keep messing with it.

has anyone ever experienced a no start like this? where is wants to start but is just popping, it even almost sputtered a few times. plus 1 was wet, there is spark, so that leaves timing. i didn't mess with the timing belt at all, i did take the distributor out, and things may have gotten cranked around a bit, do i need to install distributor with the engine at TDC?

thanks
 
  #49  
Old 07-24-2014, 06:45 PM
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the distributor has to be properly phased to the crank and camshafts, such that #1 fires at the start of #1's power stroke. I'd remove the timing belt cover, crank the engine around until the timing marks are all correct on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys, then verify the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark lpug
 
  #50  
Old 07-25-2014, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by pierce
the distributor has to be properly phased to the crank and camshafts, such that #1 fires at the start of #1's power stroke. I'd remove the timing belt cover, crank the engine around until the timing marks are all correct on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys, then verify the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark lpug
Yes thats Helped i got her started, although, i was hoping at this point it would be closer to stage 0. seems to be smoking from the header down pipe, its white smoke and smells like burning oil or gas. oil did seem to be low also, i only have a quart here at the house... also seems to be running still off time a little i guess i need to move the dist around a little?? i don't actually have a timing light although maybe i can bowwow one..

engine was not even running for 2 minutes and it was very hot to the touch, i know thats not that scientific but hey?

Thanks
 
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Old 07-25-2014, 10:15 PM
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does it have coolant in it? a good thermostat? was the water pump turning? did the top hose to the radiator get hot shortly after the engine?
 
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