Aw71 to M46 plus...
#41
sure, loose ground can cause many things. if the fuel pumps are running after you've cranked it (they stop a second or two later), then the ICU is getting timing pulses and passing them onto the ECU, which is a good thing. so if you're not getting spark, its probably the power module or coil or distributor.
what year 240 is this? up to 1988, and after 1989 use different fuel injection ssytems, LH 2.2 vs LH 2.4.
what year 240 is this? up to 1988, and after 1989 use different fuel injection ssytems, LH 2.2 vs LH 2.4.
Its LH 2.2, its an 86.. the fuel pumps are kicking on and stopping a second or two later. plugs are wet when i pulled them after that. Pulled my multimeter out to test the coil but looks like its also needs some maintenance. best way to test coil without multimeter? What do you mean when you say power module, the ICU? went over the grounds, everything seems correct and tight. still won't fire up though. i even tried rolling it a little because i remember on my ex's 86 after i did the wiring harness i had also a no start and one day after pushing it, it fired right up... need to take my multimeter into town and try to find those fuses..
#42
on a LH2.2 240, there is no power module, there is only the dreaded Chrysler ICU, which has a /very/ funky connector thats prone to bad connections. never rock that connector if you unplug it, always pull it straight out, and be prepared to use a thin sharp tool to carefully tighten the spring blades on the socket sleeves so they'll make better contact when you plug it in. avoid unplugging it unless you really really have to. also check the condition of the vacuum line to the bellow module on the bottom of the ICU, this provides your ignition advance.
my quick test for ignition is to hook up a old fashion timing light/strobe to a sparkplug wire, and crank the car, light should go blink-blink-blink.
my quick test for ignition is to hook up a old fashion timing light/strobe to a sparkplug wire, and crank the car, light should go blink-blink-blink.
#43
on a LH2.2 240, there is no power module, there is only the dreaded Chrysler ICU, which has a /very/ funky connector thats prone to bad connections. never rock that connector if you unplug it, always pull it straight out, and be prepared to use a thin sharp tool to carefully tighten the spring blades on the socket sleeves so they'll make better contact when you plug it in. avoid unplugging it unless you really really have to. also check the condition of the vacuum line to the bellow module on the bottom of the ICU, this provides your ignition advance.
my quick test for ignition is to hook up a old fashion timing light/strobe to a sparkplug wire, and crank the car, light should go blink-blink-blink.
my quick test for ignition is to hook up a old fashion timing light/strobe to a sparkplug wire, and crank the car, light should go blink-blink-blink.
thanks
#45
That is exactly what i thought, but its all lined up according to the Bently bible. the distributor was very hard to get back in though, used the bolt to pull it in the last little bit.. Ill go check the order again.
#47
Im going out of town next week but I'm going to try and get my multimeter working so i can figure this out..
Anyone have any ideas? It is soo close to starting, Pop-pop and i cn smell fuel, i didn't pull every single plug and make sure they were wet but #1 was.
if its sparking then the grounds should all be good, correct?
thanks
#48
Well i was hoping that i would have a stroke of luck and that i had installed the distributor with the timing so far advanced that it was causing a no start. that does not seem to have been the issue. But I'm going to keep messing with it.
has anyone ever experienced a no start like this? where is wants to start but is just popping, it even almost sputtered a few times. plus 1 was wet, there is spark, so that leaves timing. i didn't mess with the timing belt at all, i did take the distributor out, and things may have gotten cranked around a bit, do i need to install distributor with the engine at TDC?
thanks
has anyone ever experienced a no start like this? where is wants to start but is just popping, it even almost sputtered a few times. plus 1 was wet, there is spark, so that leaves timing. i didn't mess with the timing belt at all, i did take the distributor out, and things may have gotten cranked around a bit, do i need to install distributor with the engine at TDC?
thanks
#49
the distributor has to be properly phased to the crank and camshafts, such that #1 fires at the start of #1's power stroke. I'd remove the timing belt cover, crank the engine around until the timing marks are all correct on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys, then verify the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark lpug
#50
the distributor has to be properly phased to the crank and camshafts, such that #1 fires at the start of #1's power stroke. I'd remove the timing belt cover, crank the engine around until the timing marks are all correct on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys, then verify the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark lpug
engine was not even running for 2 minutes and it was very hot to the touch, i know thats not that scientific but hey?
Thanks
#51
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