Brake Failure Light on
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I've seen power bleeders that force fluid through the lines toward the calipers and ones that suck it from the caliper bleeder but never one that goes the other way. It has to do with the crud in the calipers at the bottom of the system. Back flushing would send it back up. In ABS cars, that can prove disasterous.
#8
I've never had any problems bleeding brakes the conventional way, using teh master cylinder as a pump.
I seriously doubt the brake warning light has come on due to an air bubble, probably a proper fault in the system or a defective switch. The engineers allow for things like air bubbles and make teh systems accordingly.
Regards, andrew.
I seriously doubt the brake warning light has come on due to an air bubble, probably a proper fault in the system or a defective switch. The engineers allow for things like air bubbles and make teh systems accordingly.
Regards, andrew.
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I'm going to post up my PM reply to Dave here, seems useful information for the forum.
To verify a leaking master cylinder, proceed as follows.
With ignition off, press brake pedal several times to destroy vacuum in the brake booster. You will know when you've achieved this, the brake pedal will go very hard.
Now, push fairly firmly on the pedal with both feet, around teh sort of pressure you'd use doing a hard stop.
Hold teh pressure constant and note if the pedal moves slowly to the floor. If the pedal moves, you need a master cylinder rebuild/replacement.
If teh pedal doesn't move, I would suggest a thorough bleeding of the brake system, following the relevant instructions for your car (split brake systems bleed differently to normal and ABS systems).
If you still have s soft pedal, have someone push the brake pedal hard whilst you look at the rubber hoses at teh calipers, significant growth of the hoses means time for replacement.
Have fun, brake problems are usually pretty straightforward.
Regards, Andrew.
To verify a leaking master cylinder, proceed as follows.
With ignition off, press brake pedal several times to destroy vacuum in the brake booster. You will know when you've achieved this, the brake pedal will go very hard.
Now, push fairly firmly on the pedal with both feet, around teh sort of pressure you'd use doing a hard stop.
Hold teh pressure constant and note if the pedal moves slowly to the floor. If the pedal moves, you need a master cylinder rebuild/replacement.
If teh pedal doesn't move, I would suggest a thorough bleeding of the brake system, following the relevant instructions for your car (split brake systems bleed differently to normal and ABS systems).
If you still have s soft pedal, have someone push the brake pedal hard whilst you look at the rubber hoses at teh calipers, significant growth of the hoses means time for replacement.
Have fun, brake problems are usually pretty straightforward.
Regards, Andrew.
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