Car runs great until intermittent stalling while at a stop &
#1
Car runs great until intermittent stalling while at a stop &
hard to start after stalling, but sometimes starts fine. Do you think that it is the idol valve? I think that my father put a fuel pump in a couple years ago although the car had very few miles on it. Today I put in a new fuel filter, thinking that could be it. While out driving after the fact, the problem wasn't fixed. Please help. What do you guys think that it could be.
#2
#3
#4
RE: Car runs great until intermittent stalling while at a stop &
Engine Coolant Tempature Sensor. Here is a helpful link: http://www.vcoa.org/700-900-faq/Engi...eratureSensors
Here isa snip of the link, but there is some good stuff about the ECT and other sensors:
"Engine Temperature Sensors. The B230F of the vintage discussed, 1989-1995 have in effect three temp sensors: the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (ECT)- which has two sensors in one housing - and the temperature gauge sensor. Two NTC thermistors are combined in one ECT sensor housing with two flat connectors and ground through the housing into the manifold. One of the temp sensor signals goes to the LH fuel injection computer, the other to the EZK ignition computer. The third temp sensor is the one used by the temp gauge in the instrument cluster. It has two round pin connectors, one signal, one ground. For resistance ratings, see the link noted. The gauge sensor is at the front under intake manifold runner number two, just ahead of the knock sensor which is bolted in at an angle. Behind the knock sensor under manifold runner three is the ECT. When you remove any of the sensors, disconnect the battery negative cable."
Tech knows more about this than me so when he gets on he can problably help you out.
Here isa snip of the link, but there is some good stuff about the ECT and other sensors:
"Engine Temperature Sensors. The B230F of the vintage discussed, 1989-1995 have in effect three temp sensors: the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (ECT)- which has two sensors in one housing - and the temperature gauge sensor. Two NTC thermistors are combined in one ECT sensor housing with two flat connectors and ground through the housing into the manifold. One of the temp sensor signals goes to the LH fuel injection computer, the other to the EZK ignition computer. The third temp sensor is the one used by the temp gauge in the instrument cluster. It has two round pin connectors, one signal, one ground. For resistance ratings, see the link noted. The gauge sensor is at the front under intake manifold runner number two, just ahead of the knock sensor which is bolted in at an angle. Behind the knock sensor under manifold runner three is the ECT. When you remove any of the sensors, disconnect the battery negative cable."
Tech knows more about this than me so when he gets on he can problably help you out.
#5
RE: Car runs great until intermittent stalling while at a stop &
when I put the new radiator in it had a new Temp Sensor with it , I may of put the wires on backwards, there are two that go on it and there were no markings for new sensor............could this be my problem?
I will switch them around tomorrow....and see
I will switch them around tomorrow....and see
#6
RE: Car runs great until intermittent stalling while at a stop &
The sensor in the radiator only controls the fan.
The temp guage is the single wire sensor.
The ECT is one of the 2 pictured in the link.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-ex...26/by_year/40/
The temp guage is the single wire sensor.
The ECT is one of the 2 pictured in the link.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-ex...26/by_year/40/
#9
#10
#11
RE: Car runs great until intermittent stalling while at a stop &
ok I put in a new crank sensor today....................the following info might be helpful to those who need to do this in the future.
Of course the Old Sensor would not budge after removing the 10mm bolt and absolutely in no way would it pry up and out or spin in the housing........SO HERE IS WHAT I DID..
I figured that the best solution is to put a 1/8 drill bit in my dremmel and put one hole down into the sensor right along side of what would also be the Housing hole "estimating where the edge ofmetal was that is the hole for sensor...........I drilled down about a 1/2 inch and pulled toward me, after puting hole in the side of thesensor I drowned the hole in WD-40 and sure enough it soaked all around the inside between the sensor and housing hole and I loosened it gently with a small pair of pliers and gently with my hand spun it back and forth, side to side, and it pulled up out.
Of course the Old Sensor would not budge after removing the 10mm bolt and absolutely in no way would it pry up and out or spin in the housing........SO HERE IS WHAT I DID..
I figured that the best solution is to put a 1/8 drill bit in my dremmel and put one hole down into the sensor right along side of what would also be the Housing hole "estimating where the edge ofmetal was that is the hole for sensor...........I drilled down about a 1/2 inch and pulled toward me, after puting hole in the side of thesensor I drowned the hole in WD-40 and sure enough it soaked all around the inside between the sensor and housing hole and I loosened it gently with a small pair of pliers and gently with my hand spun it back and forth, side to side, and it pulled up out.
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