Car won't start :\
 

The car has been in my hands for 13 days: 1989 Volvo 240 Wagon 5-speed.

It has a brand spanking new battery. No gas smell coming from the tail pipe.

Usually I turn the key... crank crank, vroom. Very smooth. Two days ago, I notice a slight delay in that crank crank. Say... crank crank crank vroom. I noticed a delay. Hmmm.

I've had it parked in the back for two days, and now... it won't start.

On the first go, crank crank crank crank... I let the key go and just heard the car try to start up. So I missed it because I stopped cranking, but it's wicked delayed. It wasn't like that at all a week ago.

So I cranked it three, four times and let it be knowing that if the spark plugs get wet, it won't start. I came back after 20 minutes or so. Same thing.

I cranked and cranked... and when it gave signs of starting, sounded a little rough, I stepped on the gas to make sure it started. I took my foot off the gas. Smooth. So the engine is running smoothly. I stalled trying to get it out of the snow... so crank crank crank crank crank... I let it be.

--sandra

Went back out there and started right up! Could I have gotten the spark plugs too wet? How long must I wait for spark plugs to dry?

Check for spark. Pull one of the spark plug wires and hold it next to ground, a strut tower screw works good. Careful you don't get zapped. Crank the engine and see if you get spark. Weak spark in wet or cold weather often means you need new plug wires, dissy cap and rotor. Once you get the engine running check the voltage across the battery terminals, should be 14v or so. Cylinder walls may be washed with fuel. Squirt a little motor oil in each cylinder. Dry the spark plugs by hand.

This morning it's cranking endlessly again. So it either starts or it doesn't. Ideas?

Should I still check for spark? If I understand blue goose correctly, I'd pull the spark plug cable, and take out the spark plug, and put the spark plug back in the cable and hover the spark plug over something grounded.

--sandra

Sounds very much like a fuel injection relay acting up.

new relay, still crank and no start
 

Got a new fuel pump relay, as I plugged it in i heard the solenoid ticking. Car was not on. Key was not in ignition.

Crank and no start (still).

Further advice?

Before you replace parts it's better to do a little diagnostics. It would help to know if you're getting spark during cranking. No need to remove a spark plug. Just a plug terminal next to ground and see if it sparks.

blue goose, could you tell me a little ahead of time what it means if i have spark, and what it means if there is no spark?

Also, how close? quarter inch? half inch?

--sandra

I should mention, after replacing the relay, when cranking, i heard a little pop out of the exhaust. i would hear the pop after i stopped cranking. one pop.

If this is a B230 engine, go to www.stepbystepvolvo.com for free guide to 740 no-starts. May help for your model.

Have spark. Tested coil, coil has spark. Have new fuel pump relay. Will try jumping fuel pump to see if we can hear it. Fuse injection LH something in engine compartment is good. Looked and sanded fuses 4, 6, 7, 13 inside car, but those are very odd looking and i have no way to test.

When I jump the relay (wire from 30 to 87) I can hear the fuel pump with the ignition off or on (both). When i plug the (new) relay in, i don't hear the pump when the ignition is ON.

Good you got spark. So the crank position sensor is working. It's easier to jumper the fuel pump relay at the fuse block. Connect a jumper or a paper clip between fuses 4 and 6 as shown here: (Courtesy of Art Benstein)

OK, coil has spark. Don't know if a spark plug has spark. Next step is to see if the cam shaft rotates while cranking the engine. Remove the oil filler cap and look into the valve cover with a flashlight. Have someone crank the engine briefly just to see if the camshaft is turning. The camshaft and distributor are driven by the timing belt. If the timing belt is broken or missing teeth the dissy won't turn to deliver the sparks.

The camshaft is turning. We did check that after looking at the website with the how to's for 740s.

I also pulled a spark plug, and it was very clean. The spark plugs and wires are 3 years old.

:: Should I try to jumper the relay as you suggest at the fuse box if I have already done so at pins 30 and 87? I imagine I use the paper clip with the fuel pump relay plugged in and turn the ignition to ON and see if I hear the fuel pump... ?

:: Must I depress the clutch while turning the ignition key? I haven't been because the car seems to crank either way.

--sandra

Fuse 4 is the same point electrically as pin 87 of the fuel pump relay. Also fuse 6 is the same as pin 30. It's just easier to jumper the fuses than the relay pins.

Have you checked the fuel pressure regulator (FPR)? Pull the vacuum hose from the front of it and sniff for gas. There shouldn't be any. A busted diaphram in the FPR will do strange things with fuel pressure. The FPR sits on the front end of the fuel rail.

Doesn't matter if you push in the clutch or not, as long as it's in neutral.

Also make sure the 25A blade fuse on the left fender under the hood is clean. It's not so much the fuse itself but the housing. It gets gunked up sometimes and will play hell with starting the engine. Pull the fuse, spray a little contact cleaner, apply a dab of dielectric grease (tune-up grease), insert fuse firmly. Start the engine.

Given the above information I solved my problem. Blue Goose (thank you so much!), you have given me very good and detailed instructions. Up 'til now I followed all your steps. I skipped one step above because I knew exactly what was wrong. I had pulled the in-line fuse for the fuel injection system (25A) out yesterday to see if it was blown. It was not. I replaced it with a new one anyway. The car did not start.

I will not directly disclose the solution, but will give a chance for people to figure it out.

On Friday I had washed my vehicle. I soaked it, washed it, rinsed it. Used compound and rinsed that off (rather than buffing it because I find it gives a better result). My car starting cranking and not starting after that. It's been cold, snowing, and as of late, freezing (-7 degrees F).

Below an illustration of front, right side of the car, the rectangle near #13 is the battery. The in-line fuse for the fuel injection system (25A) is #2:
http://silverica.com/car_photos/cocoa/photo%2832%29.jpg

Glad you got it. I installed a watertight fuse holder for the 25A FI fuse and now it starts right up first time every time. Best $15 I spent.

http://ipdusa.com/version.asp?strPag..._ID=0&V_ID=570