fault codes 231 & 113
 

I have replace the o2 sensor, injectors, cleanes the idle control valve. What do you think?
Car runs great. It did rev at idle but cleaning the idle control valve seemed to fix that, (coincidence maybe)

RE: fault codes 231 & 113
 

how long after you cleared then did it take for them to come back?

RE: fault codes 231 & 113
 

Within a second. By the way it's an 89 240 dl jetronic 2.4. It is driving me crazy,

RE: fault codes 231 & 113
 

You must have a big vaccum leak then.
Maybe a bad intake manifold or injector o-ring from reinstalling the injectors.

RE: fault codes 231 & 113
 

It sounds like the codes are not erasing. These are fuel trim codes that do not set instantly.

Are you checking the codes on port 2 and 6?

Try erasing them by pulling the fuse for the ECM. It should be on the drivers side fender area. It's a 25 amp fuse in it's own fuse holder. Pull the fuse for a minute, install and retry checking codes.

B

RE: fault codes 231 & 113
 

Wow! Your a genious!. Pulling the fuse reset the light.
However, now it runs rough when I start the car, it kind of surges a litlle for a few seconds and I have to give it gas but after a few seconds it runs fine.
Right now the car is warm, I'll try it in a little bit for a cold start. But thanks for the tip at least the light went out. That was interesting
Chris

RE: fault codes 231 & 113
 

Cold start went fine, a little low on idle but ok. I'm leaning towards cold start injector. I replaced all the others but haven't done anything with that one. The car is an 89 177K miles and never been cleaned ( I know don't scold me).

RE: fault codes 231 & 113
 

You should perform a throttle body service. It will have more of an affect on idle condition. The cold start injector is only for the initial starting when cold, nothing else.

Here is how I service the throttle body...

1. Remove T/B
2. Clean bore and plate thoroughly with brake or carb cleaner and an old toothbrush.
3. Loosen and back off the idle stop screw and idle switch.
4. Bring stop screw so it just touches lever and turn another 1/2 turn, tighten nut.
5. Adjust Idle switch so it closes at idle but doesn't hold the throttle plate open.
6. Install T/B with new gasket
7. Install throttle linkage and make sure it isn't holding the throttle open.
8. Pull the ECM fuse to reset the ECM adaption.
9. Warm engine to operating temp, pinch off hose from air pipe to the idle valve, rpm should drop 200 rpms or so, but shouldn't stall! If it stalls, redo steps 4-7.

B

RE: fault codes 231 & 113
 

I would also remove and clean the idle motor.

RE: fault codes 231 & 113
 

Idid both of those. The Throttle body I actually clean regularly. The Idle control valve I cleaned yesterday for the first time, I used carb cleaner and moved the valve around to be complete.

RE: fault codes 231 & 113
 

Sorry just read your TB thread again. I haven't done steps 3-5

RE: fault codes 231 & 113
 

When I reset the ECM the check engine light will go out for a couple of days butthe the car runs a little rough. Then the check engine light comes back and I have the same codes except the car runs better.
I have new injectors, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned idle control, replaced O2 sensor, I even replaced the struts (unrelated of course)
Because the car runs rough after resetting and then better after the light reappears the computer is telling me there is a problem and compensating for it.
What's left?

RE: fault codes 231 & 113
 

When I reset the ECM the check engine light will go out for a couple of days butthe the car runs a little rough. Then the check engine light comes back and I have the same codes except the car runs better.
I have new injectors, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned idle control, replaced O2 sensor, I even replaced the struts (unrelated of course)
Because the car runs rough after resetting and then better after the light reappears the computer is telling me there is a problem and compensating for it.
What's left?

RE: fault codes 231 & 113
 

You are correct about the compensation. From what I can tell, you have a 231 that is a long term, part load trim code. My guess is a MAF sensor. 113 is a fuel trim code, not sure of the specifics.

You need to replace it, reset the ECM, and see how it runs. The part isn't cheap, but my diagnosis is! You get what you pay for!

Good Luck

B

I have an 89 240 with EXACTLY the same problem. Been doing it for years. I've replaced fuel filter (routine maintenance anyway), fuel pressure regulator (that was for another problem). Cleaned the TB which helps for a while. But still have the codes 2-3-1, 1-1-3, and 2-2-1, all of which point to an excessively lean or rich fuel mixture. I'd love to solve this problem. Starts and runs fine when cold, runs fine when hot too, but if shut off and then re-started hot it doesn't want to idle. after driving for a few minutes it's fine. Did you ever fix yours??

Hello. So I have the same problem with my 88 240. After the car gets hot, it want idle good and needs to be keept alive with the gas pedal. After some minutes it will increase its idle itself. And then if I restart the car, its suddenly normal again. And runs good. Did you ever find out what this problem is, with your car? Hoping for some answers to this strange problem.