Intermittent Crank but No Start with a “Hang Up/Catch?"
#1
Intermittent Crank but No Start with a “Hang Up/Catch?"
Hello everyone. I’ve been reading about the “crank but no start problems” with some of our 240’s and they’ve been helpful. I’ve got an issue with my 1991 240 sedan that seems a bit different though.
Periodically, I will have the classic crank but no start. Sometimes the car will go, “duuut dut dut dut dut dut dut dut dut dut dut dut dut,” and simply will not start. Sometimes this will persist until I’ve drained the battery and have to jump the car, just to have it continue doing the same thing. However, sometimes it will crank a little differently and go, “duuut dut dut dut dut – grunt – dut dut dut dut – grunt – dut dut – grunt – dut – grunt dut dut dut dut, vroom and start up. This grunting, if you will, sounds almost as if the car is trying to “catch” or get “hung up” on something. And when I hear this “grunt/catch”, I feel pretty confident that it’s gonna start if not right then, soon. Also, sometimes these happen together and sometimes not.
Now, the last time this happened was about two weeks ago. Prior to that, it was the beginning of summer. At that time, it wouldn’t start for about a week. Then, I went outside one day and tried it and if fired right up without any hesitation. Huh? I drove it all summer, even to North Carolina and back! Two weeks ago, the problem comes back for a couple days and then disappears once again. I’m utterly puzzled.
I must say that I’m not as experienced at “diagnostics” as many of you are, I’m more of a “replace a part and see if it works” kinda guy. I know that can get expensive though, but many of these things needed doing anyway. Having said that, things I’ve done so far include:
·Swapped a known good starter
·Cap and rotor
·Plugs
·Wires
·Pump relay
·In tank/lift pump
·Main pump (was buzzing anyway, and don’t think it was related)
·Verified fuel delivery at fuel rail (nice gusher)
·Swapped ignition control unit
·Swapped fuel system control unit
·Pressure regulator
I think that about covers it.
Lastly, I can’t determine any other circumstance that seem to correlate with my no start problem… no half a tank versus full tank, hot weather versus cold, jiggling the key in the ignition, car sitting level or at an angle, etc. Once it starts, it runs and drives like a champ; smooth at idle and all other speeds, no hesitation, and good power. Has anyone seen this before? My gut is telling me it’s probably something very simple. Any help anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks everybody.
Periodically, I will have the classic crank but no start. Sometimes the car will go, “duuut dut dut dut dut dut dut dut dut dut dut dut dut,” and simply will not start. Sometimes this will persist until I’ve drained the battery and have to jump the car, just to have it continue doing the same thing. However, sometimes it will crank a little differently and go, “duuut dut dut dut dut – grunt – dut dut dut dut – grunt – dut dut – grunt – dut – grunt dut dut dut dut, vroom and start up. This grunting, if you will, sounds almost as if the car is trying to “catch” or get “hung up” on something. And when I hear this “grunt/catch”, I feel pretty confident that it’s gonna start if not right then, soon. Also, sometimes these happen together and sometimes not.
Now, the last time this happened was about two weeks ago. Prior to that, it was the beginning of summer. At that time, it wouldn’t start for about a week. Then, I went outside one day and tried it and if fired right up without any hesitation. Huh? I drove it all summer, even to North Carolina and back! Two weeks ago, the problem comes back for a couple days and then disappears once again. I’m utterly puzzled.
I must say that I’m not as experienced at “diagnostics” as many of you are, I’m more of a “replace a part and see if it works” kinda guy. I know that can get expensive though, but many of these things needed doing anyway. Having said that, things I’ve done so far include:
·Swapped a known good starter
·Cap and rotor
·Plugs
·Wires
·Pump relay
·In tank/lift pump
·Main pump (was buzzing anyway, and don’t think it was related)
·Verified fuel delivery at fuel rail (nice gusher)
·Swapped ignition control unit
·Swapped fuel system control unit
·Pressure regulator
I think that about covers it.
Lastly, I can’t determine any other circumstance that seem to correlate with my no start problem… no half a tank versus full tank, hot weather versus cold, jiggling the key in the ignition, car sitting level or at an angle, etc. Once it starts, it runs and drives like a champ; smooth at idle and all other speeds, no hesitation, and good power. Has anyone seen this before? My gut is telling me it’s probably something very simple. Any help anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks everybody.
#2
I don't know how the later 240s compare to the 740, but you can go to www.stepbystepvolvo.com and download free 740 no-start guide. It will at least give you some ideas.
#3
Well, it sounds like you swapped just about everthing - well almost. I didn't see Crank Position Sensor.
Really, though, what needs to be done is a little diagnosing. When it won't start, do you have spark? If not, then I would suspect the CPS.
I had a similar problem with my 240. It was hard to start when cold. I replaced the distributer cap and it seemed to go away. The old cap had carbon streaks inside that indicated arcing was going on. After a while the problem came back. In the end, what I found was that the timing belt was worn and the half shaft had jumped a notch or two leaving the distributer off a bit. Since the timing is controlled by the computer, it would run as long as it could arc sufficiently inside the distributer cap.
Good Luck
Really, though, what needs to be done is a little diagnosing. When it won't start, do you have spark? If not, then I would suspect the CPS.
I had a similar problem with my 240. It was hard to start when cold. I replaced the distributer cap and it seemed to go away. The old cap had carbon streaks inside that indicated arcing was going on. After a while the problem came back. In the end, what I found was that the timing belt was worn and the half shaft had jumped a notch or two leaving the distributer off a bit. Since the timing is controlled by the computer, it would run as long as it could arc sufficiently inside the distributer cap.
Good Luck
#4
I agree w/ the above post. I haven't seen a failing CPS hang on as long as you describe before totally dying but it could happen. While the starting noise you describe is difficult for me to imagine, a car that has the T belt out of time has a very distinctive starting sound which could be what you describe. Because you have replaced the starter and thus taken it out of the equation, then only a bad flexplate/flywheel ring gear could still be making the noise. Also...you said "known good starter." Let me recount an experience I had this summer. The starter I had installed in my 144 last year failed. I literally have a shelf full of used starters, alternators, etc. I went through 3 second hand starters to find one that (so far) had no quirks. Each one bench tested fine but has issues when under the car. All I'm saying is that known good parts after this length of time may not be so good. Frankly, my money is on the T belt. Be sure to replace the tensioner and scrutinize the front seals while you're in there!!
#5
I finally got around to replacing the crank position sensor today. Only time will tell if this solves my problem as the starting issue was intermittent, but judging from the looks of what I took off the car, I feel pretty confident. The timing belt is the next thing on my to do list. Take a look-see at what my CPS looked like. Pretty toasty, right? Notice the nicely wrapped wire tape. Funny thing is, I’d noticed those frayed wires in the past, but only recently realized what they were. Thanks everybody.
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