Ok 91 740 turbo wagon bosch setup. Usually runs well gets 21+ mpg

I have had this car for a few months and have had intermitent (until tonight when it died and I had to tow it) issues with the car cutting out, sputtering out really like its outof gas. Was always under 1/2 tank, been told on here it was most likely the internal fuel pump.

The car will just hiccup a few times with in a few miles and then wil run rough and die. Crank it and it stumbles, do that a few times. Then nothing just turning over. Letit set and it will start. Fill it up with gas and its fine. I have had it stop on the road 5 different times. 3 of those times filling it with gas was the answer (or was it just the time of sitting). Fill it up and away you go. Same thing today. Stopped andwould not start. I went and got a gallon of gas and put it in. By that time from the earlier cranking the battery died. Got a jump and it fired right up. Went to gas station filled it up with 8 gallons. Ran fine, wentto a friends and let it run 30 mins no problem. Go in and drove off and with in 5 miles it died and would not start back. Had it towed and here i am.

Need to get this going!

I am going at the in tank pump (of course it has a full tank!) first what do you all think????

Also can the internal pump be changed through the inspection hatch?

 

Update. It just started when I jumped it off. I am thinking relay now

 

Yeah, really sounds more like the fuel pump relay to me getting hot and not working; cooling, and working. FWIW, I've never had a lift pump cause a no-start. My experience is they may cause stumbling or poor idle but not a no start.

 

Thanks swift, I pulled the relay and it looks fine when I take cover off. I ran into a volvo mechanic at the parts house and he said there is a little tube that is on the in tank pump that usually is cracked and that is where I am heading next.

 

The tube he's talking about is a piece of fuel hose that connects the pump to the hard line on the bottom of the sender. If you swap it out, be sure to buy hose that can be immersed in gasoline. Most fuel line only has a protective coating on the inside of the hose...it will degrade quickly when immersed. If you are intent on pulling the tank, consider replacing the tank pump...should be the last time you need to pull the tank. There's a fellow on turbobricks.com who scored some high quality AC Delco in tank pumps. He's selling them for $38 shipped...a good deal for a name brand pump. They are unbranded as they were built for a private label. Here's the link...
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=214921

FWIW, I've seldom been able to examine a fp relay and determine it was bad. In my experience, it is rare for the contacts to burn up. What happens is the solder develops microscopic cracks that only open up when hot. I've read about people re-soldering all the contacts but I've had mixed success doing that. I usually just buy a new one and keep the marginal one in the glove box as a spare. While some would say this is indiscriminate replacing of parts, my opinion is that Volvo redblocks seldom have just one problem manifesting itself. I've come to believe that often it is a combination of items all operating at or near the low side of acceptable. The combination of low normal operations will create a symptom that will point to only one sensor/relay what have you. Check them w/ a multi-meter and they will read acceptable though lowish according to the manuals. For instance, I've learned to replace O2 sensors as soon as possible unless I have first hand knowledge of it's history. Prior owners word doesn't count!
Keep us posted!! And...happy hunting!!

 

pulled the in tank pump out and the hose seems fine. How do you get the wires off so you can pull it all the way out? I guess since I have it out I might as well replace it right. do you just cut the wires?

 

You know, I just pulled an entire assembly 2 weeks ago. Didn't even look at the connections. Typically they have alittle boot over the connectors. The connectors may either be push fit spade connectors or be held on with small nuts. For me, and I admit to being old school, I test the intank pump before ever dropping the tank. I just remove the feed hose from the back of the inline pump under the car...put a catch pan under it and hit the key. There should be a healthy quantity of gas fly out! Since you're there, be sure to change the pump "sock".
P.S. If you mean the wires on top of the sender assembly? the connector is under the back seat; unplug it and push it and the sealing grommet thru to the outside.

 

I did not drop the tank. Mine is a wagon and it can come through the inspection hatch. Got the relay, going to get pump in a bit, and then I will put it all in. Is there a way to tell if the sock needs changing? It looked fine

 

Not really, they can look pretty nasty though. When I pulled the tank on my 80, the sock was FULL of crap. Typically, the tank sock is coarse, just small enough to keep big stuff from toastilng the pumps. The main filter is much finer. Bythe way, the 80 ran fine even w/ the sock full of rust and crap! Usually you can feel the sock, if it feels full, change it.

 

got the sock, relay, and pump bout to hit it hard.

BTW where is the fuel filter?

 

under the car, in front of rear axle, driver's side.

 

ok all done, it fired right up. kinda surged a little like 100 rpm up and down, just enough to barely make the needle move. Smoothed out and idles good now. still wanna change filter is it next to external pump?

 

thx swift

 

YW! Heres the fuel pump and filter tray...

 

well gonna have to tear back into it again. The gas gauge is not working right. That thing was a bear to get back in.

Just a question also. The new pump was not marked pos/neg. What would happen if it was hooked up backwards.

 

it pumps backwards

 

at least it wont burn it up.