Leaky 740
#1
Leaky 740
I’m considering buying an 1986 740 GLE wagon, it has a few issues but it runs and drives. We took it to firestone and got it checked out and on the sheet it says there’s a leak from the automatic transmission. When driving the trans takes awhile to shift up like it’s low on fluid but it has enough for it to shift normally. Hoping a few people will come across this and tell me if I should buy this car for $800 as my first car and how about how much it would cost to repair the trans, link pins, and ball joints. The engine runs strong but seems a little slow, idk how this car should drive but there’s no engine light so idk if I should be worried. Thank you in advance.
#2
Do you know how to check the transmission fluid level? You need to drive the car for I would say minimum 15 minutes, then put it in park, keep it running. Now hold it with the brakes and shift into each gear while running. Hold it in each gear for 5 seconds, go through that twice. Start in P, go all the way down to L1 or whatever the lowest is on the selector. Then, pop the hood and while it is running pull the dip stick and wipe it off then re-insert it and check your level. It is probably low considering the age. Is that mileage correct? 306k? Is this wagon solid? How is the interior? This would affect the price imo. Link pins and ball joints....I would say 500 if you brought it to a shop, that includes labor and parts. I think parts should be in the 200 range but not sure. Sounds like you will need to change some bulbs and add some brake fluid and tires. I bought 4 15" for my 740 () and it was about 300 for them, I mounted and installed them myself.
I would drive it, check all fluids, and see how it is. By that I mean after you topped off all fluids and drive it, let it sit for a hour and see what kind of leak you are dealing with. If it is minor, drive it and just know you need to keep an eye on fluid levels.
I would drive it, check all fluids, and see how it is. By that I mean after you topped off all fluids and drive it, let it sit for a hour and see what kind of leak you are dealing with. If it is minor, drive it and just know you need to keep an eye on fluid levels.
#3
#4
Looks good. My '91 has the same issues, paint, no headliner (I guess all of these have a headliner issue) and ripped seats. I would drive it and check for leaks, and ask about the replacement engine. If you like it, maybe say 600 bucks cash or something I mean over 300k on a 33 year old car with issues, they should take it.
#5
I would never take such type of report seriously. They are looking to sell, know nothing about a 300k Volvo. Some of these could be valid, but hard to say, thus hard to offer any opinion.
Sure a 300k Volvo will need things, if you are handy it may be OK to take on, if you take it to a shop to fix, it will be too much which is the story will all old cheap cars...
Sure a 300k Volvo will need things, if you are handy it may be OK to take on, if you take it to a shop to fix, it will be too much which is the story will all old cheap cars...
#6
Before taking it to the shop and looking at the receipt I knew there were problems with the rear brakes (pad and rotor metal on metal), the trans issue I talked about earlier, the car being a little slow (I have no experiance with this car so idk if it was having problems accelerating but probably not), and the front wheels shaking at speeds over 60 (most likely wheels need to be balanced. I talked the guy down from $1200 to $800 and I think it’s a good price for a running driving stopping car. Give me ur opinions on the car and if $800 is a good price. Thanks to anyone who replied earlier and who replies to this
#7
#8
Generally, any 300k mile car is not easy to sell, especially one that needs that much done. I wouldn't pay anywhere near that, may be $400... Depends on where you are... I see now, Wash. state. Lots of decent 740/940 in the PNW for a grand.
Check the wiring, the 1986 models are especially prone to disintegrating wiring.
Check the wiring, the 1986 models are especially prone to disintegrating wiring.
Last edited by lev; 02-15-2019 at 06:26 PM.
#10
Lev was referring to the main wire harness
If your engine has been swapped...probably a good chance the the wire harness was swapped. Could be wrong though.
Anyway, this link has a lot of info on the harness issues.
https://www.240turbo.com/volvoharnesses.html
If your engine has been swapped...probably a good chance the the wire harness was swapped. Could be wrong though.
Anyway, this link has a lot of info on the harness issues.
https://www.240turbo.com/volvoharnesses.html
#11
So I bought the car and replaced the rear pads and rotors but the brake pistons won’t compress for me to get the new pads in. I’ve tried prying them and spraying anti corrosive liquid but nothing’s working. The pads were a pain to get out since they were being run metal-on-metal for so long that the pad had started to dicintigrate and the rotor had worn into two parts. I’ll post a picture tomorrow of the rotor but is there anything I could do to get the pistons compressed?
#12
if the pistons are seized badly they maybe would not work properly even if you got them freed up. i ran into the same issue and ended up getting rebuilt ones from rockauto. they were cardone rebuilt ate calipers. very reasonable price and work perfectly.
Last edited by silvermine; 02-17-2019 at 10:25 AM.
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#17
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