Need engine replaced or rebuilt 91 940 turbo
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Need engine replaced or rebuilt 91 940 turbo
Does anyone know of a good engine shop in Atlanta area ???? Myengine
overheated, car turned off, blew head gasket (?) ---now mechanic wants to replace with Used from junk yard ---
My engine had 150,000 miles and other than leaking oil it was working well.....
I am trying to keep the cost down but am afraid to get a junk yard engine and spend $2,100 to 2,500 to replace it and the radiator only to have it give me problems six months from now.
Any suggestions or personal experiences to share?
thanks
overheated, car turned off, blew head gasket (?) ---now mechanic wants to replace with Used from junk yard ---
My engine had 150,000 miles and other than leaking oil it was working well.....
I am trying to keep the cost down but am afraid to get a junk yard engine and spend $2,100 to 2,500 to replace it and the radiator only to have it give me problems six months from now.
Any suggestions or personal experiences to share?
thanks
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91 940 Turbo --- replacing engine --- overheated
This is what I have learned: used engine -- with 3 month part warranty they do a compression test and some type of leak test ??
Radiator needs to be replaced with hoses
I have been told that while they are changing the engine they really should just go ahead and put in new:
rear and front main seal
gasket and thermostat
timing belt -- check tensioner
water pump
And of course they have to replace oil, filter, antifreeze
I would like to get my old engine back so I can sell it as a possible rebuild on craigslist?
I have been quoted 1200.00 labor to do all of this plus cost of used engine and misc parts (hoses,oil,filter,antifreeze, rear and front seals, gasket thermostat, timing belt and water pump)
So one person said they would do everything for 2,100 but I think they are planning on keeping my old engine and using any parts from it to put on the used engine if needed rather than put on new parts.
I am going to talk with this shop today at lunch to see what the real cost will be if if have them put new misc. parts listed above and keep my old engine.
Obviously I am not a mechanic but boy have I gotten a crash course in replacing a volvo engine. I have been researching online and anywhere I can get info ...
Researched buying an engine from gotengines.com but read some customer complaints and decided not to.
Any thoughts?
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If you overheated the engine to the point that it shut down, you really don't want to waste time with that engine short of a FULL rebuild.
You should just get the mechanic to fit another good running engine. The cheapest way to get a guaranteed good running engine is to find a car to buy locally that has a junk body, interior etc but runs well. This way you can be sure of how it runs, and it's usually far cheaper than buying a junkyard engine.
The advantage is you can drive it to your mechanic's door.
Regards, Andrew.
You should just get the mechanic to fit another good running engine. The cheapest way to get a guaranteed good running engine is to find a car to buy locally that has a junk body, interior etc but runs well. This way you can be sure of how it runs, and it's usually far cheaper than buying a junkyard engine.
The advantage is you can drive it to your mechanic's door.
Regards, Andrew.
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I gotta go with typhoon on this one. Junkyard engines often sit in rain etc for long periods of time. Most junkyards won't have run it and all the seals all dry out and so on. Good for parts, certainly, but a whole engine i would be sketchy about.
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Seattle,WA
I do not agree. First of all why not just take the head off first and have a machine shop inspect it? Why do you need an entire motor when you say you just blew a headgasket? Very easy to do a head gasket on a B23FT,B230F,B21FT,B21,B23 etc... I repair blown headgaskets all the time. the Volvo motors a nearly industructable and usually don't even need shaving but the machine shop you take it to will let you know that. They will put the head on a level and see if it's warped or not. They will even tell you if your valves are ok or leaking just tell them you want a leak down test done. Now moving on to the junkyard motors....if you are talking about pull your own parts junk yards, they do not keep cars forever. So any volvo you see there will be just fine. just make sure the engine turns, and has no water in the oil. I would try to find one that has been hit in the front or looks like it was "totaled" if car looks perfect...there has to be a reason why it's there but most likely it's not a bad motor.Also check the odometer for miles. If you pull it yourself, this will be the cheapest way to get another motor. next cheapest is to buy the motor from a wrecking yard that pulls it for you. They will usually be able to tell you how many miles are on it etc. and they typically come with a 30-90 day warranty. but if I were you I would 1.do a compression check on the motor and write down the compression of each cylinder. 2. if you really want to save $$ try and use a can of bars leak head gasket repair first and foremost. Follow the directions to a tee. stuff works miracles bro and saves the wallet, could fix it for good or until you can afford to fix it right...3. If that doesn't work pull the head and drop it off at your local parts place that has a machinist. usually willl be a local Napa or a local parts place not a big chain store. 4. If they cannot repair head all you need to do is find a good head not a whole motor bro...get a headgasket kit and throw on your new head and good to go. Seriously,typically a motor will only go bad if you've run it out of oil, threw a rod or a piston. Don't know of any places in Hotlanta but here in Sea-Town we have 2 really great places for used Volvo parts actually 3. Northern European 206.789.7004, Aurora Auto wrecking 206.524.8700 and Rainbow auto 360.734.6117. I believe they all ship and are all good folks. Good luck!!
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Orange, CA
I just pick myself a 92 940 turbo head from a pick your part for 45 bucks. YES I TEND TO GO FOR THE ONES THAT CRASHED, LIKE IN THIS CASE. It was charcoal gray, black interior and a light post on the driver side. engine was not harmed. I could have gotten the entire engine for 175 otd.
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If you run ANY engine overheated to the point it shuts down, you have damaged far more than a head gasket. Every engine I've seen overheated in this way, even if it does start again, has drastically reduced oil pressure and lots of nice little bottom end sounds.
Do you have any actual experience, or are you just regurgitation forum folklore?
Regards, Andrew.
Do you have any actual experience, or are you just regurgitation forum folklore?
Regards, Andrew.
I do not agree. First of all why not just take the head off first and have a machine shop inspect it? Why do you need an entire motor when you say you just blew a headgasket? Very easy to do a head gasket on a B23FT,B230F,B21FT,B21,B23 etc... I repair blown headgaskets all the time. the Volvo motors a nearly industructable and usually don't even need shaving but the machine shop you take it to will let you know that. They will put the head on a level and see if it's warped or not. They will even tell you if your valves are ok or leaking just tell them you want a leak down test done. Now moving on to the junkyard motors....if you are talking about pull your own parts junk yards, they do not keep cars forever. So any volvo you see there will be just fine. just make sure the engine turns, and has no water in the oil. I would try to find one that has been hit in the front or looks like it was "totaled" if car looks perfect...there has to be a reason why it's there but most likely it's not a bad motor.Also check the odometer for miles. If you pull it yourself, this will be the cheapest way to get another motor. next cheapest is to buy the motor from a wrecking yard that pulls it for you. They will usually be able to tell you how many miles are on it etc. and they typically come with a 30-90 day warranty. but if I were you I would 1.do a compression check on the motor and write down the compression of each cylinder. 2. if you really want to save $$ try and use a can of bars leak head gasket repair first and foremost. Follow the directions to a tee. stuff works miracles bro and saves the wallet, could fix it for good or until you can afford to fix it right...3. If that doesn't work pull the head and drop it off at your local parts place that has a machinist. usually willl be a local Napa or a local parts place not a big chain store. 4. If they cannot repair head all you need to do is find a good head not a whole motor bro...get a headgasket kit and throw on your new head and good to go. Seriously,typically a motor will only go bad if you've run it out of oil, threw a rod or a piston. Don't know of any places in Hotlanta but here in Sea-Town we have 2 really great places for used Volvo parts actually 3. Northern European 206.789.7004 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting**************206.7 89.7004******end_of_the_skype_highlighting, Aurora Auto wrecking 206.524.8700 and Rainbow auto 360.734.6117. I believe they all ship and are all good folks. Good luck!!
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91 940 Turbo Sedan - Engine being replaced with used engine ----
Thanks for all of the comments --- as I said I am totally not a mechanic but have learned alot about Volvo engines and what some of my options are.
I went with VolRepair in Atlanta --- been in business at same location for 23 years.... his lot is covered in cars and lots of volvos .... I would not doubt he has an engine in one of them. They are always busy with customers so I am assuming they make their customers happy --- have to trust someone sometime to do the right thing.
They feel that the engine got hot enough to shut itself down that there is probably bad damage to the engine and not even worth a rebuild. Because I thought about selling it as a possible candidate to rebuild to recoup a little of my costs. But he really did not think it would be a good rebuild candidate base d on the way it shut down.
He suggested getting the best used engine (he will do that) --- replacing it and I verified with him that the timing belt, gasket and thermostat, front and rear main seals be replaced with new parts. Since the radiator and all of the fluids are gone he will replace the radiator and hoses, oil, oil filter, antifreeze etc. He said they do a compression and leak test (?) on any used engine before they use it.
This will probably cost about 2300.00 by time I am finished.
The engine will only have a 90 warranty on it but he said if there is going to be a problem with the engine it will probably be evident in the first week of driving.
I actually really love this car..... I have a rental now and it feels like a tin can compared to my 940 which is heavy and has great pick up --- it is really easy to drive --- never slugigsh.
So, after shopping for an engine myself --- I decided to let him do it all based on his experience. I did use his service a few years ago when I first purchased the car from my sister and brother-n-law (2002).
VolRepair has the car now and I should b e able to pick it up next week ----
to be continued
I went with VolRepair in Atlanta --- been in business at same location for 23 years.... his lot is covered in cars and lots of volvos .... I would not doubt he has an engine in one of them. They are always busy with customers so I am assuming they make their customers happy --- have to trust someone sometime to do the right thing.
They feel that the engine got hot enough to shut itself down that there is probably bad damage to the engine and not even worth a rebuild. Because I thought about selling it as a possible candidate to rebuild to recoup a little of my costs. But he really did not think it would be a good rebuild candidate base d on the way it shut down.
He suggested getting the best used engine (he will do that) --- replacing it and I verified with him that the timing belt, gasket and thermostat, front and rear main seals be replaced with new parts. Since the radiator and all of the fluids are gone he will replace the radiator and hoses, oil, oil filter, antifreeze etc. He said they do a compression and leak test (?) on any used engine before they use it.
This will probably cost about 2300.00 by time I am finished.
The engine will only have a 90 warranty on it but he said if there is going to be a problem with the engine it will probably be evident in the first week of driving.
I actually really love this car..... I have a rental now and it feels like a tin can compared to my 940 which is heavy and has great pick up --- it is really easy to drive --- never slugigsh.
So, after shopping for an engine myself --- I decided to let him do it all based on his experience. I did use his service a few years ago when I first purchased the car from my sister and brother-n-law (2002).
VolRepair has the car now and I should b e able to pick it up next week ----
to be continued
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This is probably your best bet even though it's pricey... I agree that the overheated motor is junk-these engines are great but overheating them is one sure way to kill them. And, true that the first week will tell you of the motor is OK, less than that really...
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Seattle,WA
If you run ANY engine overheated to the point it shuts down, you have damaged far more than a head gasket. Every engine I've seen overheated in this way, even if it does start again, has drastically reduced oil pressure and lots of nice little bottom end sounds.
Do you have any actual experience, or are you just regurgitation forum folklore?
Regards, Andrew.
Do you have any actual experience, or are you just regurgitation forum folklore?
Regards, Andrew.
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Joined: Jun 2010
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i'd agree. unless the engine seized due to heatstroke, I'd do my best to salvage it, and 50 bucks or so for some coolant and fluids/plugs will go a long way to the overall diagnosis. Maybe a head job which is a couple of hundred bucks I'd guess. Large bore cast iron blocks can take a lot of abuse. and if the head is off, you could always do a top end rebuild and it'd run great.
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Seattle,WA
i'd agree. unless the engine seized due to heatstroke, I'd do my best to salvage it, and 50 bucks or so for some coolant and fluids/plugs will go a long way to the overall diagnosis. Maybe a head job which is a couple of hundred bucks I'd guess. Large bore cast iron blocks can take a lot of abuse. and if the head is off, you could always do a top end rebuild and it'd run great.
Now that
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Update on Engine Replacement 91 940 Turbo Sedan
Engine was replaced with a 95 Volvo Turbo Engine --- amazingly it had 62,000 miles --- only 3 month warranty but the shop that did the work says he has been dealing with this company for years so -------
But long story short.... it was about 2,300 for the engine, labor parts etc.... they put on a new timing belt, front and rear main seals all oil, filter and a couple other things that I don't remember at the moment.
The first day I drove it I had a problem but the owner of the shop met me in ten minutes and had it running again.... he followed me to the shop and put it on the diagnostics --- adjusted whatever needed adjustment and I was on the road again in a few minutes. I think it was something to do with the vaccum hoses????
He told me to bring the car back after I have driven it 300-500 miles so they can check it out etc.
Things I know so far before taking it back to him :
1. it has an oil leak (everywhere I park it leaves some oil)
2. it idles a little rough
3. another mechanic told me the alternator belt needs to be tightened
4. When I accelerate really fast from a slow speed -- the needle goes to Turbo but it has a huge hesitation... like the turbo can't catch.... this is only when I gun it from a slow speed... don't normally drive like that but was trying to test it in different scenarios.
If I ease up on the gas it moves into Turbo ok..... something about a fast acceleration from very slow speed that does not catch... tries several times but can't seem to catch.
Hope that make sense to someone... not sure if that description helps.... just know that something is wrong there..... but it only happens in that scenario --- fast acceleration from slow speed (10-20 miles an hour) ---
How is it sounding so far? I will take it back to the shop for the check up
the end of next week.
Otherwise it is driving great --- so nice to have my car back
But long story short.... it was about 2,300 for the engine, labor parts etc.... they put on a new timing belt, front and rear main seals all oil, filter and a couple other things that I don't remember at the moment.
The first day I drove it I had a problem but the owner of the shop met me in ten minutes and had it running again.... he followed me to the shop and put it on the diagnostics --- adjusted whatever needed adjustment and I was on the road again in a few minutes. I think it was something to do with the vaccum hoses????
He told me to bring the car back after I have driven it 300-500 miles so they can check it out etc.
Things I know so far before taking it back to him :
1. it has an oil leak (everywhere I park it leaves some oil)
2. it idles a little rough
3. another mechanic told me the alternator belt needs to be tightened
4. When I accelerate really fast from a slow speed -- the needle goes to Turbo but it has a huge hesitation... like the turbo can't catch.... this is only when I gun it from a slow speed... don't normally drive like that but was trying to test it in different scenarios.
If I ease up on the gas it moves into Turbo ok..... something about a fast acceleration from very slow speed that does not catch... tries several times but can't seem to catch.
Hope that make sense to someone... not sure if that description helps.... just know that something is wrong there..... but it only happens in that scenario --- fast acceleration from slow speed (10-20 miles an hour) ---
How is it sounding so far? I will take it back to the shop for the check up
the end of next week.
Otherwise it is driving great --- so nice to have my car back
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 404
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From: Seattle,WA
sounds to me like you got hosed. I would NEVER give a client their car back until I knew with 100% confidence that the transplant went well and all systems were in proper working order. Sounds like the guy you went to is a hack...I'd bring it back tomorrow and leave it with him with your laundry list and would not pick it back up until it is done correctly...You just paid $2300 bro all I know is beautiful 940T's here in Seattle are only selling for $1500...I hope you have verified docs on the mileage of that engine...don't settle..somethings wrong take care of it. Good luck!!
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Dallas, TX
I think most people would agree, even if they've only been working on cars for 20 years, that serious repairs on older Volvos often are more expensive than simply buying another working Volvo. Some Brick owners fail to realize this fact; others are attached to their Volvo and bite the bullet. The price paid is a fair price. Used motors here in Dallas have a better chance of working well than one from a rebuilder. Few people can or will, pay us to a complete engine rebuild ourselves. However, our supplier offers a 12 month parts AND labor warranty...so if a customer coughs the motor, he's not out a dime...and neither is the shop.
I would, however, immediately call theshop and tell them of the issues you've noted. Ask them if they want you to bring the car in now or to wait a few hundred miles. Obviously, if the car is hemorrhaging oil you need to get it to them ASAP.
I would, however, immediately call theshop and tell them of the issues you've noted. Ask them if they want you to bring the car in now or to wait a few hundred miles. Obviously, if the car is hemorrhaging oil you need to get it to them ASAP.
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The professional mechanics have their side, that's how they earn their living... I avoid them-I see their work and have to correct half of what they do. To spend $2,300 on a $1,200 car, well, ok... If you don't know any better, and have no other choices. People spend their money on a lot of crazy things... Better than getting a $5,000 couch I guess...
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 404
Likes: 1
From: Seattle,WA
I think most people would agree, even if they've only been working on cars for 20 years, that serious repairs on older Volvos often are more expensive than simply buying another working Volvo. Some Brick owners fail to realize this fact; others are attached to their Volvo and bite the bullet. The price paid is a fair price. Used motors here in Dallas have a better chance of working well than one from a rebuilder. Few people can or will, pay us to a complete engine rebuild ourselves. However, our supplier offers a 12 month parts AND labor warranty...so if a customer coughs the motor, he's not out a dime...and neither is the shop.
I would, however, immediately call theshop and tell them of the issues you've noted. Ask them if they want you to bring the car in now or to wait a few hundred miles. Obviously, if the car is hemorrhaging oil you need to get it to them ASAP.
I would, however, immediately call theshop and tell them of the issues you've noted. Ask them if they want you to bring the car in now or to wait a few hundred miles. Obviously, if the car is hemorrhaging oil you need to get it to them ASAP.
Maybe I'm the only HONEST mechanic left...guess that's why I'm not rich huh?
Last edited by volvoguy2323; Jul 22, 2010 at 02:34 AM.
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 404
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From: Seattle,WA
The professional mechanics have their side, that's how they earn their living... I avoid them-I see their work and have to correct half of what they do. To spend $2,300 on a $1,200 car, well, ok... If you don't know any better, and have no other choices. People spend their money on a lot of crazy things... Better than getting a $5,000 couch I guess...
Most mechanics just want to take your hard earned $$...most if not all the local Volvo mechanics here in Seattle are not even Volvo certified....just hacks with a Volvo sign on their door.... Anyone can pull a motor and drop another in...geeze a monkey could do it...but it takes a true diagnostician or a thinking human being to make it run correctly, what's a motor/system that doesn't run correctly?...useless....what kind of mechanic gives a person a car back that he knows does not run correctly and say hey go drive it for 500 miles and maybe it will cure itself...duh...?? He's just pushing this guy off so he can take another $2300 from another poor sap...
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 404
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From: Seattle,WA
Engine was replaced with a 95 Volvo Turbo Engine --- amazingly it had 62,000 miles --- only 3 month warranty but the shop that did the work says he has been dealing with this company for years so -------
But long story short.... it was about 2,300 for the engine, labor parts etc.... they put on a new timing belt, front and rear main seals all oil, filter and a couple other things that I don't remember at the moment.
The first day I drove it I had a problem but the owner of the shop met me in ten minutes and had it running again.... he followed me to the shop and put it on the diagnostics --- adjusted whatever needed adjustment and I was on the road again in a few minutes. I think it was something to do with the vaccum hoses????
He told me to bring the car back after I have driven it 300-500 miles so they can check it out etc.
Things I know so far before taking it back to him :
1. it has an oil leak (everywhere I park it leaves some oil)
2. it idles a little rough
3. another mechanic told me the alternator belt needs to be tightened
4. When I accelerate really fast from a slow speed -- the needle goes to Turbo but it has a huge hesitation... like the turbo can't catch.... this is only when I gun it from a slow speed... don't normally drive like that but was trying to test it in different scenarios.
If I ease up on the gas it moves into Turbo ok..... something about a fast acceleration from very slow speed that does not catch... tries several times but can't seem to catch.
Hope that make sense to someone... not sure if that description helps.... just know that something is wrong there..... but it only happens in that scenario --- fast acceleration from slow speed (10-20 miles an hour) ---
How is it sounding so far? I will take it back to the shop for the check up
the end of next week.
Otherwise it is driving great --- so nice to have my car back
But long story short.... it was about 2,300 for the engine, labor parts etc.... they put on a new timing belt, front and rear main seals all oil, filter and a couple other things that I don't remember at the moment.
The first day I drove it I had a problem but the owner of the shop met me in ten minutes and had it running again.... he followed me to the shop and put it on the diagnostics --- adjusted whatever needed adjustment and I was on the road again in a few minutes. I think it was something to do with the vaccum hoses????
He told me to bring the car back after I have driven it 300-500 miles so they can check it out etc.
Things I know so far before taking it back to him :
1. it has an oil leak (everywhere I park it leaves some oil)
2. it idles a little rough
3. another mechanic told me the alternator belt needs to be tightened
4. When I accelerate really fast from a slow speed -- the needle goes to Turbo but it has a huge hesitation... like the turbo can't catch.... this is only when I gun it from a slow speed... don't normally drive like that but was trying to test it in different scenarios.
If I ease up on the gas it moves into Turbo ok..... something about a fast acceleration from very slow speed that does not catch... tries several times but can't seem to catch.
Hope that make sense to someone... not sure if that description helps.... just know that something is wrong there..... but it only happens in that scenario --- fast acceleration from slow speed (10-20 miles an hour) ---
How is it sounding so far? I will take it back to the shop for the check up
the end of next week.
Otherwise it is driving great --- so nice to have my car back
TAKE IT BACK...DO NOT PASS GO DO NOT COLLECT $200...TAKE THE CAR BACK AND HAVE THEM FIX IT ASAP!!! THIS IS A CERTIFIED VOLVO MECHANIC TELLING YOU THIS FREE INFO>>>TAKE IT OR LEAVE IT YOUR CHOICE..DAMN I"M
PROBABLY DIDN"T EVEN NEED A NEW MOTOR!! BUT NOW THAT YOU SPENT $2300 ON ONE IT BETTER RUN RIGHT BROTHER!!!