Need a no-start troubleshooting checklist
 

My daughter's 1994 940 (B230F) cranks but will not start. She ran out of gas a few days prior so I'm not sure if that is related to the current issue. It ran fine for a day after the gas issue. Is there a flow chart available that I can use to diagnose the issue?

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Eng...Stall_Problems

note that up to 1988 740/940 used LH 2.2, while 1989+ (8) uses LH 2.4, they different primarily in the timing source, 2.2 used a hall sensor in the distributor, while 2.4 uses a crank position sensor.

first thing to do is determine if there is spark and fuel pressure.


(*) 1989 turbos still used 2.2, 1990+ turbos use 2.4

I'm a bit of a novice. What's the best way to check for fuel flow and spark?

should be info on that link

spark, remove a spark plug, plug it back into the wire, use insulated pliers to hold the metal side of the plug against an engine block ground like a valve cover bolt, have someone crank the eingine for a few seconds, look for fat blue spark in the gap on the plug.

fuel, connect a fuel pressure gauge with a T fitting where the fuel line goes into the fuel rail, have someone crank, you should see around 42-44PSI fuel pressure.

fuel injectors, get or borrow a 'noid light' and plug it in between the harness connector and one of the fuel injectors, have someone crank, the light should blink twice per engine revolution.

I spray starting fluid in the intake and crank it; if it fires up it's a fuel issue.

OK, here's the update. I changed the fuel filter. There was plenty of pressure going to the filter so I assume fuel was getting to at least that point. I'm getting a good spark on the plugs. So I think it is a fuel issue somewhere from the filter to the engine. Any suggestions? Attached is a picture of the injectors.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/volvofo...d84bb5ee9e.jpg

1994 Volvo 940 B230F

the one thing odd I can see in that picture, the throttle 'spool' looks like its been bent at an odd angle, and the main throttle cable looks like its going between two of the 'pulleys' on the spool, and not in the proper slot, which is the one closest to the engine. the middle slot is for the transmission control cable, and the slot farthest from the engine is for the cruise control, which also looks like its an an odd angle, that cable should be straight from the cruise actuator to the pulley.

Would any of those items cause the engine to crank yet not start?

have you checked for spark yet? inspected a spark plug pulled right after cranking the motor a few times, to see if its wet and smells of gas ? tried starting the motor with starter fluid? (if it runs for a second on starter fluid, then your spark is good, so its a fuel problem).

I pulled plugs and found spark. I'm honestly not sure where to put starter fluid on this injection system. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Open the air filter box, take the lid off and spray a 2 or 3 second shot into the air pipe leading into the engine, then crank the key immediately... Any putt-putt and your problem is likely fuel delivery or injection...

OK, judging from all of the helpful posts, I think there's a fuel delivery issue. I sprayed starter fluid in the air intake manifold and the engine started for a brief moment then died. So, what's the best way to diagnose a problem with fuel delivery?

1) use a fuel pressure gauge hooked up to a T fitting where the fuel hose connects to the fuel rail, verify you have fuel pressure when you crank the engine.

2) use a noid light plugged in between a fuel injector and the plug to the injector, have someone crank the car, verify the noid light blinks. if it doesn't, then investigate the power to the injectors

There doesn't appear to be any fuel pressure at the fuel rail. There is also a T valve just behind the fuel filter. When I hooked up the gauge there and cranked I didn't get any pressure either. Could this be an electrical problem? I've read about fuel pump relays going bad.

are the fuel pumps being powered ?

there won't BE any fuel pressure before the main pump regardless, the pressure is between the main pump and the fuel pressure regulator...

OK, I'm out of ideas. Here is the troubleshooting breakdown so far:
1. Fuse 1 is OK
2. Timing belt is OK
3. Spark plugs getting spark (I only checked 1 but assume all are OK)
4. Changed fuel filter
4. Fuel pressure - the schrader valve on the fuel rail is at an odd angle and I can't connect my gauge to the fitting. But there is definitely fuel coming out of the valve when I depress the valve. Same thing with the valve just behind the fuel filter.

What should be my next step?

Are the injectors firing. Have you tested them with a noid light.

unfortunately, I don't have noid lights or the money to buy them right now. Is there a relay that runs the injectors that I could check first?

many neighborhood auto parts stores will rent occasional use tools like noid lights.

Thank you. I'll check with the NAPA around the corner from me. Also, I pulled the access plate off of the in-tank fuel pump in the trunk. Am I supposed to hear a noise from the pump when I turn the key to position II? Because I don't hear anything.