Overdive not engaging
 

Hey everyone,

I'm a proud owner of a 1992 940 GL 8-valve (non-turbo) and recently the overdrive has refused to engage the 4th gear. It has always been somewhat flaky since I bought it in 2004. By 'flaky' I mean that once in a great while it would automatically cut out, usually on the highway (making for some hair and RPM raising drives) and after a while of jamming the switch it would eventually come back on. Unfortunately it has recently **** the bed and refused to engage at all leaving me unable to drive on the interstate or above 45 miles per hour really. I'm hoping that someone can send me in the right direction if possible. I'm considering purchasing a new OD relay as it's cheap enough at around 50 bucks. If anyone has any experience with this type of situation I would be most grateful. Any sort of advice would be helpful. I'm hoping it's not the transmission itself but if it is, so be it.

EDIT: The car is an automatic, the OD light has never worked (I was unaware one existed) and I have checked through the forums but want an expert opinion. Furthermore, is it possible to just clean the contacts on the relay?

Thanks in advance.

Overdrive..
 

I had a similar situation w/my 240 wagon. I'm not a mechanic, and don't know much, but what I didnt know is that there is a fuse for fourth gear overdrive.. You've probably checked this, but if not it's the cheapest place to start..

I just replaced my alternator and now my battery trouble light comes on only when I turn the car off! Looking for answers here.. I am interested in knowing how you make out w/your OD... b.knapp62@yahoo.com

it can be a bad relay, the wiring, or the solenoid on the trans.
pull the relay and check. http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Tran...OverdriveRelay
relays are easy to change. check under the car and see if the wires look okay.

wait for the experts to get on.....

Or it could be the switch. You say that in the past "jamming the switch" has been successful in activating the OD. Pry out the switch with a small flat head and make sure it's got a good contact (just two wires), and that it is not too far recessed in the shifter.

There needs to be a sticky at the top of the page for this.

I removed the large white relay on the right side of the cluster and this is what I found:

http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/IMG_0918.jpg
http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/IMG_0917.jpg


There do not appear to be any breaks in the solder, but I'm certainly not a mechanic (just love my Volvo to pieces) and this is my first time dealing with relays and/or electrical problems in general so I'm not positive what it would actually look like. I checked out TIPSP's link and I had difficulty differentiating between 'healthy' and broken solders. And adub, yes I've noticed there have been many people with this issue and a sticky should be in order. Thoughts please....

EDIT: Furthermore, is it possible to test the continuity of the relay itself? I have access to a multimeter.

The easiest way to test if the relay has gone is to jumper the relay board to see if the pump comes on. If it does it's your relay. I would just replace the relay anyways there like 15 dollars and its a whole piece of mind deal.

How would I go about jumping the relay board? And by pump, do you mean, OD? I apologize for any basic questions, but I'm a real greenhorn when it comes to things like this. I appreciate the response.

I would replace the relay but unfortunately the cheapest one I can find is around $40.00-$50.00, which would be cheap enough but I'm in between jobs and dirt poor right now. I'm aware that this could also be a solenoid issue or worst case scenario a tranny problem in which case I'll need all the cash I can muster.

Power from the ignition switch/fuse connects to the relay using terminal #15. Output from the relay to the solenoid uses terminal #87.

With the key on and relay connected you should see battery voltage toggle on/off with the button on terminal #87.

I"m sorry i zoned out, Uhmm I was thinking about fuel issues. I am mistaken.

You can't drive on the interstate without an overdrive? My 240's 4-speed never had one, I have no problem getting up to freeway speeds. Sure the engine might be a little buzzy at 4,500 RPM but it won't kill it.

Adub, no problem.

Bubba240 (or anyone else for that matter), I used a multimeter on the continuity setting with the positive(red) contact on the #15 lead and the negative(black) contact on the #87 lead. The multimeter made no sound so I assume that the relay is bunk. Is this correct?

You'll want to measure voltage on 87 with it plugged in.

I realize this may sound ignorant, but how am I supposed to touch the contacts to the lead if the relay is plugged into the socket? Expose the rear lead ever so slightly?

Where the wires enter the connector .. I usually insert the probes in there. The red line in the attached picture might help show this.

OK, I see. I take it I'm going to have to remove the fuse and relay housing to be able to get to the connector? If that's the case, a link or brief instructions would be extremely helpful. I realize a Haynes or a Chilton's would be invaluable at this point. As I'm a fan of DIY, especially on my brick, I used to own one but it was stolen. I'm ordering one online soon.

So with every thing connected, relay installed, fuse in, key on - insert your volt meter probe into the back of the connector and measure the voltage on the wires that are connected to terminals 15 and 87. I know the wire colors on the 240, not the 940. You are seeing if power is coming into the relay and leaving it. And if the button turns this power on and off.

87A- yellow/red od light in instrument cluster
87- yellow overdrive solenoid
31 -this has two wires connected blue od switch blue/red fuse #12
15- black ground
86- brown od switch
6 - violet/white speedometer
8- brown/white or blue/black downshift inhibitor



Dan

Hi Dan - FCP Groton shows the same 5 pin relay used on a 1992 940 8 valve as the 240 ...

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...ategory_id/171

Thanks for the heads up on the OD relay. When I tested for continuity I checked the solder joints and it appears as if a few may be cracked. I'm unaware if this is due to my running the current through the relay or if I just didn't pick up on it before. I'm tempted to believe the former but regardless I'm going to get some soldering done this evening, test it using your method bubba, and will report back asap. You guys have been great so far, I appreciate it.