Hi
I have seen a lot of comments on this issue but nothing conclusive as yet. My car (approx 200k) will stall while driving along in traffic. The lights don't come on right away, it just seems to die quietly. I end up trying to steer to the side of the road or a nearby turn. If I try to crank it back up right away it won't start. But if I wait 2 minutes it starts right back up? Sometimes it will stall while I am stopped at a light..or turning and twice out on the freeway doing about 55. So frustrating. My mechanic guy questioned the fuel relay getting hot, fuses, small fuel pump etc. The strangest thing is sometimes I can go for a week before it will do it again. Other times twice in one day. I can't repair much and will either have to start replacing stuff my mechanic seems to be guessing at or ditch the car. Anyone have an idea what this "ghost" might be? I have seen the problem in other forums but no "ah ha". Thanks,

 

The 2 main things to look at is the fuel pump relay and the engine speed sensor.
The Fuel pump relay has the Date it was made stamped on it. If it is over 5 years replace it.

 

May I offer a suggestion based on experience with the 240? Fuel pumps and relay very possible. But why start with the most expensive fix. As the owner of two Volvo 245s ( a 1984 diesel and a 1987) as well as several Mercedes 123 chassis wagons (the 300TD models) I find they share a serious and frustrating potential fault. While the Bosch electrical system is good, the fuses are vulernable to corrosion and flaky intermittent problems. The metal on the fuse ends are dissimilar to the metal in the fuse holder. Result - corrosion and poor contact. If your fuel system ( or any other electrical component) has gone flakey and intermittent, I would start with the fuses. Even if a fuse looks good, the end caps could be corroded, or could expand under heat and open the circuit. The fuel system runs all the time the engine is running; so does the ignition system. Here’s the scenario: bad fuse heats up, opens the circuit. Car shuts down. Fuse cools off, car OK. You go nuts.
I have solved 99 per cent of intermittent electrical problems by removing the fuses (one at a time, please) and thoroughly cleaning the contact points in the fuse box with an emory board. A Dremel tool is also good for gettting in there. Be sure the switch is off; you might even want tto disconnect the negative battery terminal while you are poking around. Then REPLACE all the fuses with the appropriate color (white, blue or red). Some guy on Ebay sells heavy-duty fuses with better metal (same current rating but more reliable) for the Merceds 123 chassis. These work in the Volvo 240 as well. I think the cost is $23 for two sets.
If the car dies without warning and restarts right away, the fault may not be in the fuel system. If the fuel pumps quit, they would take a few seconds on restart to push fuel into the injectors. If your 240 restarts instantly, maybe you should look elsewhere for the problem.
My 1987 245 had an especially frustrating quirk: It would start and run fine, but intermittently, would not restart after being shut off. I would have to wait a half an hour or more and then without warning, would start and run fine. I relentlessly eliminated all the components in the Lamda system until I noticed the engine temperaturre sensor (buried up near the manifold) looked funny. It was broken, and intermittently would set up the hot engine for a cold start. Result-flooding and no start. When it cooled off and re-set, no problem. It was quite a relief not to be stuck at Home Depot, or even worse, Wal-Mart. I hesitated to drive the car at all beecause I never knew when or where it would leave me stranded.
I can empathasize with your dilemma. Do what I did: start with the simple, obvious fixes and work your way through the fuel and electrrical system. A coil could be shorting or going open under heat or vibration. Or it could be a broken h/t lead from the coil to the distributor. Simple to substitute and cheap. How about the speed sensor going intermittent and shutting down the ignition system? I had a Saab that showed the same symptoms. Problem was an intermittent speed sensor that loved to go catatonic on the Thruway.
If the simple ( and cheap) fixes don’t work, better get an experienced Volvo diagnostician. The parts replacement game is endless and expensive until someone stumbles on the right part.

 

the fuel pump relay is $20 at www.fpcgroton.com it is good to have a spare anyway. Next in line is the speedsensor if the insulation around the wiring looks bad replace it. You did not say what year your was but if there is no distributor you have a speedsensor, if you have a distributor then i would think it is the hall pickup in the distributor (volvo calls it an impulse sensor) I agree with the tech and arthur too. I replaced my weird fuzes with buss fuzes you can get them in whatever amp you need 8,16 etc they are glass with pointy metal ends so they fit right in. They are plated and do not corrode. Only thing I dont like is that they are not color coded and it is hard for a blind old buzzard like me to see what they are.

 

well
the new fuel relay came in UPS but i haven't put it in yet. waiting on the car to stall again just in case i inadvertantly "fixed" something monkeying around. doubtful though. i looked at the fuse panel but it appears ok. could not locate the "speed sensor" several cables are on the firewall..but i don't where they go. yet

 

wow!! Thanks for your comments regarding my car stalling. The new fuel pump relay has been in for over a week now. No stalls. Runs great. Well..as good as an '88 wagon can. I got the fuel pump relay for about $19.50 from europarts online. about $ 6 or 7 ship and handle. Heaven. Thanks again.
Jay

 

My 1988 Volvo 240 (387k miles) had exactly the same symptoms- random stalling sometimes on the freeway, sometimes at idle, sometimes every two minutes, and sometimes every couple of hours. It would not restart right away but if I waited 2 or 3 minutes it would start on the 1st or 2nd crank.
I replaced the fuel pump relay and it completely fixed the problem. It is part number 3523608 and it's located just behind the glove box. I paid $28.70 for an OEM part.

 

Buy yourself another fuel pump relay......a must in these cars and quality of product....

this is what I do:

I buy the 49 dollar one
and buy a less expensive but prone to early failure for 18 dollars and keep in glove box.

 

you realize this was a 7 year old thread?

 

Ha....what the heck? what happened?

 

I have had this as a chronic issue for may years with my 1988 Volvo GL, and have tried so many repairs. It is scary and maddening. Did you find a solution that worked? I'd be very grateful to know.

 

Never mind, I must have not seen the rest of the thread somehow. I see now that it was successfully resolved with the fuel pump relay.

 

My volvo has >200,000 miles on it, has been brave and true outside of one little persisting problem, it decides (intermittently) to conk out at the most inopportune moments, in the middle of intersections, in the rain, with a line of cars behind me. I have taken the car to multiple mechanics and had replaced the following:
1) fuel induction kit
2) crank shaft sensor
3) ignition switch
4) ignition combustion module
5) idle air control valve
6) starter motor

I think next steps are to consider replacing the fuel pump and/or alternator, but was told this may not solve the problem. There is a relationship to the ambient moisture in the air (be it rain or humidity) and this problem.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Best,
Mary

 

Fuel pump relay?

 

If it is happening only when raining or moisture in the air, I would check the 25 Amp fuse that is mounted on the inside of the drivers side fender near the battery. It is mounted in a place that water can easily infiltrate. Pull the fuse and check for corrosion. The power to the fuel injection system runs through this fuse so a bad connection will cause the engine to stall or not start. Clean it well and use some dielectric grease when re-installing.