Sound familiar? About to throw in the towel...
I had a 740 with the plastic cap and plastic tank. It wasn't that hard of a job to deal with.
As for keeping the car, if you have had the car 3 years and only put about $1,500 into it, please count your blessings. Most cars will cost you about $75 per month to maintain/repair so if that's it for the year, you're doing well.
My 740 had 2 pumps, the intank pump and the one under the car. I highly doubt both pumps went out together. So, maybe you just need the main pump and you'll be fine. A lot of times the in-tank pump can be bad and you'll never know it if you keep the tank over 1/4.
As for keeping the car, if you have had the car 3 years and only put about $1,500 into it, please count your blessings. Most cars will cost you about $75 per month to maintain/repair so if that's it for the year, you're doing well.
My 740 had 2 pumps, the intank pump and the one under the car. I highly doubt both pumps went out together. So, maybe you just need the main pump and you'll be fine. A lot of times the in-tank pump can be bad and you'll never know it if you keep the tank over 1/4.
given a 1990 740GL...
if your car has bosch injection, the in-tank fuel pump assembly is 3507492, list $329, tasca $246, but just the pump is 3501928, list $121, tasca $78
the Bosch injection also has a main pump, pn 9142044, list $372, tasca $240...
if your car has regina injection, the in-tank fuel pump assembly is 3507495, list $529, tasca $341 however just the pump from this assembly is PN 3507736, list $156, tasca $100.
the regina system has no 'main' pump.
on both of those, the 'in tank fuel pump assembly' also includes the fuel level sender, the prefilter sock, etc.
if you have a 16V (I don't think that was a option on GL that year), then this is all wrong. ditto turbos.
if your car has bosch injection, the in-tank fuel pump assembly is 3507492, list $329, tasca $246, but just the pump is 3501928, list $121, tasca $78
the Bosch injection also has a main pump, pn 9142044, list $372, tasca $240...
if your car has regina injection, the in-tank fuel pump assembly is 3507495, list $529, tasca $341 however just the pump from this assembly is PN 3507736, list $156, tasca $100.
the regina system has no 'main' pump.
on both of those, the 'in tank fuel pump assembly' also includes the fuel level sender, the prefilter sock, etc.
if you have a 16V (I don't think that was a option on GL that year), then this is all wrong. ditto turbos.
The GLE model was the 16V. If it is a 90 GL, something like 95% were the regina cars. The engine bay will look like this...


Under the hood, the most obvious difference is the squarish ignition coil that has an ignition cable going to the distributor.


Under the hood, the most obvious difference is the squarish ignition coil that has an ignition cable going to the distributor.
for the novice OP, the ignition coil is that 'transformer' looking thing on the driver side strut tower, shown to the far right of the lower photo.
the coil on a bosch car looks like a cylinder, like this,
where the wire from that center post goes to the center of the distributor...
the coil on a bosch car looks like a cylinder, like this,
where the wire from that center post goes to the center of the distributor...
Thanks for the info, all! It is not a turbo, so this helps a lot. Another local garage suggested the fuel pump relay could be the problem. Considering those are much cheaper, I'm going to give it a shot before ordering a fuel pump system. Although, given the symptoms I looked up of a bad relay, I don't think it quite matches up. But for $10, it's worth the try. We shall see ...
Just for grins...Has anyone checked the catalytic converter? Sounds as if it could be clogged. I have someone rev up the car in park while I hold my hand an inch or two from the tail pipe. I look for 2 things. The first is particulate matter blown into my hand from a broken element. The second is to see how strong the exhaust flow is when the engine is revved. Pretty much an arbitrary test, but I have a fair idea what the force of the exhaust should be when the engine is revved. If it is suspect, the exhaust line can usually be removed immediately in front of the cat to see if it drives correctly when removed. It'll be loud but saves buying a new cat if it isn't the problem.
Thanks
the cat is in the exhaust pipe, just below/behind the engine. the engine exhaust ports feed into the exhaust manifold, which is connected to a down pipe, and the cat is right after this downpipe, then behind the cat is more exhaust pipe with two mufflers.
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