Hi. Attached is a service summary for my car in txt format. May need to open full screen to read correctly. Not everything is in there but that is most of it. We aquired the car 1 year ago from a family member.

We have a 1989 240 (or 245 dl) with 120,000 miles that is experiencing stalling issues again. It was stalling back in October at any speed while driving. That had been fixed. Recently it has started stalling again. Sometimes it will be weeks between stalls. It got worse recently. Here is a summary of the first problem and the new problem:

10/1/08
ยท Issues experience with car stalling while driving at any speed
ยท Car has stalled several times over train tracks and bumps and while coasting. Two engine light codes (AMM 231 and 121) showed up.
ยท Problems fixed by Volvo shop: Replaced defective ECT sensor and air filter, Performed Throttle Service, Cleaned Connections at AMM, AMM checked out okay, Vacuum leak fixed. Car was good for a few months.

1/19/09
ยท Car drove fine in morning
ยท In afternoon Car started fine
ยท Warmed up for 3 minutes
ยท Backed up in reverse fine
ยท Put in drive then foot on gas pedal
ยท Reached around 20-25 mph and foot on gas pedal with constant pressure to maintain speed.
ยท RPMs started fluctuating intermittently every 50-100 ft (starting at normal RPMs and dropping 2-3 times in several seconds before returning to normal RPMs again).
ยท Car stalled
ยท Restarted fine
ยท Repeated RPM fluctuations but did not stall again during 7 mile drive

1/20/09
ยท Car drove fine in morning
ยท In afternoon started car
ยท Warmed up for 2 minutes
ยท Put in drive
ยท Crept forward without foot on gas pedal and stalled

1/21/09
ยท In evening (6 pm)
ยท Engine turned over, took hand off key, and immediately stalled
ยท Waited several seconds
ยท Engine cranked and took about 5 seconds to turn over
ยท Took hand off key and car ran fine
ยท First went in reverse then drove for a couple miles fine

Other things to note:
Throttle Cable has been sticky, requiring driver to โ€œun-stickโ€ gas pedal each morning. Cable has been lubed but not yet replaced.
When the car first starts it has a high idle for about 5 seconds before calming down to normal slow idle - I assume this is normal.

Hope this is enough info for someone to know what the problem is! Thank you!

 

Lots of times arandom stallis the crank position sensor or the fuel pump relay.

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...ategory_id/111

 

So you would characterize it as a random stall? Nothing specific jumps out about the situtation?

And the engine speed sensor looks like the part that was cracked and had exposed wires that we replaced last summer with a used one. I hadn't identified what it was. Is it worth just replacing with new? And same with fuel pump relay? Is there a way to diagnose it being bad or should I just replace?

 

You might want to erase the codes and re-check after it has stalled for any diagnostic "hints". The fuel pump relay is cheap and easy, so even if it isn't the problem you'll have a spare. You can also clean fuses 4 and 6 and measure the voltage on then while running to see if there isa voltage drop somewhere.

During idle listen to the main pump - it should be a constant humm, not surging or high pitched.

 

There have been no new codes to diagnose unfortunately.

What should the voltage for fuses 4 and 6 measure? Are these fuses found in the side panel under the steering wheel? I assume I am measuring each to ground to check for a voltage drop? Where is a good ground in that area to measure from? And I could also measure voltage across each fuse to make sure the fuse itself is good and measuring no voltage difference.

I'm not sure I've heard anything unusual during idle. Is there a particular area I should put my ear up to? Near the gas tank?

While driving, we have heard what sounds like a jet engine winding up and down that goes along with speed or acceleration. Not sure if that is related but I would guess it was a fuel pump.

 

Usually things like the AMM, o2 sensor, rich running, etc will give you a code but bad pumps and relays won't.

Another thing to check - make sure the exhaust isn't being blocked by a bad cat. converter by feeling the exhaust.

I measure ~11.4v on both sides of the fuses using a screw in the center of the panel for a ground. There are two pumps, one in the tank and one "main" unitjust in front of the driver's rear wheel.

You should be able tohear the main pump by getting close to it. The in-tank pump is a little harder to hear, its higher pitched and you can remove the gas cap and put your ear next to the fill tube.

 

Thanks Bubba. I will check fuses, sound/pitch of fuel pumps and exhaust flow tomorrow or over the weekendand will report back. Hope I can find my multimeter.

 

Update.
1) I verified that the crank position sensor was the one that was replaced last summer, but it was replaced with a used one.
2) Then I pulled the codes. It read 2-3-1 "lambdfa adjustment" again as it did back in October when the Volvo shop worked on it. I tried to clear the code but it wouldn't clear. I could clear ignition codes but not fuel codes.
3) The exhaust was okay. I felt faster exhaust come out with a touch of the gas pedal.
4) The main pump sounded good and very constant, low hum.
5) The in-tank pump did not sound constant, but not too bad either. It was higher pitched than the main pump and every few seconds went up and down in pitch slightly. Like bumps in a straight line if I drew it out.
6) I haven't found my multi-meter yet to check the fuses. I plan to check voltages first, then clean the fuses and holders, then check voltages again.

 

Could it be the sock in the tank? The car will run without the pusher pump but if the fuel pickup is getting clogged intermittently it would stall then restart.The pump runs all the time soI don't know what would causeany hiccups or changes in pitch.I had a case were the sock was gone and something was getting into the pickup every once in a while. I just replaced the whole thing and the problem went away. Either way after 20 years of sitting in gas,it's not an if but when item.

 

I checked the fuses today. I'm not sure what the measurements are telling me but here are the results:

Fuse 4 (in-tank pump): With car running = 14.00 V on left of fuse and 13.96 V on right of fuse.
With car off = 0 V on both sides of fuse.
After cleaning fuse and holder with car running = 13.98 V on left and 13.94 on right.

Fuse 6 (main pump): With car running = 14.45 V on both sides of fuse.
With car off = 12.5 V and dropping on both sides of fuse (acting like there is a capacitor somewhere discharging).
After cleaning fuse and holder with car running = 14.43 V on both sides of fuse.

Soundmiami, that sounds possible. Maybe something clogging the in-tank pump filter?

 

Those pump voltages are good.

2-3-1: Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean or too rich at part load

Next I would suggest a close inspection of the vacuum lines for splits/leaks. Especially the large hose between the air mass meter and the throttle body, intake manifold, and injector seals.

 

This weekend I tried to check the vacuum lines and I attached 2 pictures of some I am not sure about.

First, all look okay in terms of splits or damage.

Second, I sprayed around each line and at the connections with a WD-40 aerosol can but did not hear any changes in engine idle.

Third, I tugged around at the connections with the engine running and noticed some things. In the first picture, both of those large vacuum lines are not tightened down all the way and you can see they are not fit perfectly on that main air intake line. When I pushed or pulled at either one of them, the sound of the engine idle changed to a deeper buzzing type noise. When left alone or pushed on the connection better, the engine noise sounded normal. I think I will try to tighten them better or get some new hose clamps for them.

Also, it can't be seen in the second picture but the arrow is pointing to a very small line that was not all the way pushed down on the small pipe it was connected to. I pushed it on but no change in the idle was noticed. I accidentally pulled it off and the engine bogged down before I stuck it back on.

 

First pic, hose on the right goes to the flame trap and so does the nipple in the second picture. I would follow it to the other end and change out the trap and make sure its properly seated to the oil seperator box.

That large accordian hose may have holes in it (from rubbing aganist wires, etc) allowing un-metered air in, messing up the mixture.

 

How would the flame trap cause stalling? If it is dirty or clogged? I might as well replace it since it is only $3 for the kit.

And how did you know that I didn't check that large accordian hose? I will check that out.

Should I still get that main fuel pump relay while I am buying the flame trap kit? I am thinking it is not needed at this point but want to make sure.

 

I checked the large accordian hose yesterday and it is fine. I'm not sure about changing the flame trap. It seems like a big project to get in there.

 

It almost stalled again so I have some new information. Right after filling up with gasoline and waiting at a light, it was doing a "vroom, sputter, vroom, sputter" thing. I believe this is maybe unrelated to the previous stalls. It has happened twice before in the past 6 months. Revving the engine caused it to go away before stalling.

Could something have been stirred up in the gas tank?

The transmission cable (lower throttle cable) was replaced last week to fix the sticky gas pedal problem, but I am assuming that wouldn't change anything. I haven't replaced the fuel pump relay yet. Should I still think about replacing it?

 

Anyone have any ideas about the "vroom, sputter, vroom, sputter" thing? Is it still obviously a fuel trim thing?

Is the check on the injector seals easy?

 

I read some info on injector seals. I guess it would be a problem if I smelled gasoline?

 

I don't have a 240 yet, but yes, I think you would smell fuel if the injector seal was leaking. Injector nozzle could be clogged, though. I assume you have a new/recent fuel filter on the car? And how old is the O2 sensor?

 

O2 sensor was replaced 15,000 miles ago in 2005. Fuel filter was replaced 25,000 miles ago in 2001.