its a testament to how solid the chassis on these cars are, and/or how stupid and ignorant she is.

i bet she ran that car with 0 oil pressure for a significant amount of time, and the dash board lit up like a christmas tree.

 

I'm in the final stages of the engine swap and suffering memory issues regarding all the harness connectors on the intake side of the engine. A couple of the connectors are obvious such as the throttle plate sensor, the idle speed motor, and the coolant temp sender. I'm thinking they are color coded but I can't find a reference. There are four I can't be sure of; one blue connector, one yellowish-white, one short black and a separate long wire coming from the left fender behind the ABS apparatus with a black connector on it. I seem to remember that there was a loose empty connector near the old mechanical fuel pump plate on the wrecked '93 car. Of course the '93 manifold has no cold-start injector so one of those four is for that, but which one? I'm using the ECU from the '93 and the radiator & intercooler from the '91. TD

 

there's a little blue square connector that goes nowhere, has 2 pins, I think, and is a test point. there's another 1 wire connector that goes nowhere and I think has a pink wire, and is a remote start test point.

I don't see the alternator, air conditioner compressor, or power steering pumps in your pic? the alternator has a fat red wire that comes from the starter, and a thinner wire that comesf rom the dashboard alternator/battery light. the compressor has at least one wire for its clutch, I forget if these have a tachometer in the compressor or not, that would be a 2nd wire.

 

Thanks Pierce. I haven't installed the AC compressor, or alternator yet to give myself as much room under the intake as possible, I think I've got all the leads you mention figured out. The white one and the long black one which is not in the main harness & comes from the fender by the ABS unit are the confusing ones. What does the now useless Cold Start connector look like? Hope to get this puppy purring this weekend! TD

 

I dunno, look at the CS injector on the old engine's manifold to see what kind of connector it has? I believe the start injector has a grey-black and a grey wire to it. the other 4 injectors have grey and green wires.

 

Well I think I've got it figured out that the blue plug goes to the knock sensor, the black one is the empty loose one cause it won't reach anything and the long black one coming from the fender is the only one that would reach where the cold start injector would be i.e. where it was on the '91 intake manifold. The only odd thing is that if that's true, the injector lead only has one fairly large green wire. Since this 940SE was a one year only model of the 960 with a B230 in it there may be some odd wiring going on.

 

I was looking at the 1991 940SE wiring diagram when I called out those colors. note that's NOT the outer sheath color, thats the color of the wires inside the sheath. I see your cold start injector hanging out over the radiator hose port.

the injectors definitely have two wires each.

btw, that 1 year only 940SE is a direct descendent of the 760 turbo. when they introduced the 900 series in 1991 to replace the 700, the new 2.9L I6 wasn't ready, so they couldn't produce the 960 (the 760 used a 2.8L V6), but they could do the 960 turbo which they branded as a 940SE. the chassis and interior are a 960, which has more insulation, more chassis reinforcement, completely different under-the-dash wiring

 

I hung the cold start injector out there just to show that it does fit the plug and to show how long that wire is. What could it be for? There is no such wire on my wrecked '93 wagon which doesn't have a cold start valve. On one of the wiring diagrams I was looking at they designate a wire color as SB (?) what color does that indicate? TD

 

SB is Black in wiring diagrams. Schwarrtz or something.

 

Could it be that the long lead coming from behind the ABS unit containing a single large diameter green wire be for the anti knock sensor? I think the short blue one in the harness under the manifold could reach the Cold Start injector location since the injector sort of hangs down from the center of the '91 intake manifold and that might explain why you saw it unconnected if the cold start wasn't on the manifold you were using? TD

 

knock sensor has a shielded green wire that has black outer insulation.

ac compressor solenoid (clutch) has a green-yellow or green-red wire that comes from the pressure switch on the ac dryer/reciever 'beer can' thing.

coolant temp sensor has a grey wire to the ICU and grey-white wire to the ECU

there are /two/ ground wires to the intake manifold, the 'signal ground' is towards the back and gets a bunch of brown wires, the 'power ground' is towards the front and gets a couple black wires. IIRC, these grounds are on the metal bar that supports the fuel rail.

blue wires are ignition switched power to the EGR, ignition power stage, ICU, diagnostic socket, etc.

 

Bingo! You nailed it. The mystery wire from the fender behind the ABS unit is the knock sensor. So the cold start wire I'm taping off under the intake has the blue clip on it. I'm putting a check on my list for completed wiring. Got all the belts done so the only thing is the plumbing for the turbo, intercooler, etc and the radiator. Trans shifts perfectly until I connected all the linkage now it won't come out of park but my trans guy said it's because the neutral safety switch won't operate until the battery is re-installed. Tomorrow might be the end of this adventure!! TD

 

on a 700/900, I believe theres a manual override for the park lock, I forget if its a button above the shifter, or you stick your finger in the slot, and lift up on a L shaped hook. note that is different than the park/neutral safety switch which prevents you from cranking the starter over unless you're in P or N.

 

My '93 940 has such an "Over-Ride Button" as did my '95 & '97 850s, but I see no such button on this '91. There is a little 3/4" x 1" tab just to the left of the shifter that looks like it might be removable? I'll try that as well as searching down in the slot for an "L shaped hook".

You're a wealth of info Pierce! Being in my '70s I'm still stuck back in the Amazon Era!! Amazing that we all didn't die from starting our cars in gear! TD

 

hey, I'm in my mid 60s.... I just never much cared for 'american iron' and have owned mostly european cars my whole life. ok, i have an f250 diesel, for hauling duty and towing trailers.

 

As far as I know, the Europeans have nothing that compares to a real American made truck? I don't think hauling trailers is a big thing for a European Holiday!

Did the "brain surgery" today so the Volvo saga should end tomorrow once I find the phantom vacuum port....


One of these (grey, white, & black) rigid plastic lines goes to a port on the intake manifold, one goes to the in-line heater valve, but for the life of me I can't find where a third vacuum port is hiding and which one goes where? They've not been moved from that wire binder by the coil since removing bad engine. I've got the carbon canister all hooked up so it's not related to that, nor the turbo or the fuel pressure regulator. Got any suggestions? TD

 

europeans DO have caravans, what we call camp trailers, but they tend to be smaller and lighter than our usually way oversized RV trailers, and can be pulled by a reasonably sturdy car such as an E class mercedes. they also are balanced differently with generally less hitch weight, and a longer tow bar which makes them stable without needing the additional hitch weight.




me, my camp trailer is a 21' that weighs about 4200 lbs, the F250 is total overkill for that, but my previous Tacoma couldn't tow it and still have adequate payload in the truck for our needs.

 

vacuum lines go to the heater controls, and the brake booster. on a turbo, these all need to be after a 1-way valve, since boost is the opposite of vacuum, and there's a plastic 'egg crate' that acts as a vacuum reservoir. oh and the turbo has one vacuum line thats *not* behind the 1-way valve, this one goes to the boost gauge on the dash.


ah, here's a 1991 940SE!



oh, one of those clear lines comes from the heater controller behind the dash and goes to the heater valvee. the other one goes to the vacuum 'tree', I think I see two one way valves on that 'T',

there's also a vacuum line to the cruise control servo.

 

Perfect! As usual, a picture's worth 1,000 words. I see exactly where everything goes. TD

 

note, btw, on a turbo, all vacuum lines before 1-way valves need clamps as they can have positive pressure on them

I prefer this sort of spring clamp to the ubiquitous stainless worm clamp, as those worm clamps do not apply even pressure at smaller diameters.