Soooo tired of car drama! Worked fine all weekend--Fri. beach with kiddos; Sat. hockey game in Taunton--Today, Monday, will not turn over....new air filter, gas tank full, sparks/rotor replaced....all lights, radio, etc. turn on--car will not turn over. Checked fuses 1 and 11 in back of radio and they're fine. On a side note, after driving last week to my son's baseball game, lasted about 2 hours--car, ha ha! wouildn't turn over! Called AAA, but kept trying key......just as the truck pulled up, car started...felt bad for AAA guy....this kind of situation has been happening off and on for a couple of weeks but when car eventually starts I kind of forget about it until, once again, today....not dependable at all. However, not a spot of rust and when it runs, runs great.....any ideas? (Called Boston Volvo and they want to see car-no thanks-too expensive for a 93----also called George, Autozone, Kingston, nice guy-told me to try fuel filter, starter relay, and/or crankshaft position sensor as he said the part acts like a magnet but when overheated will not work but once cool, car would start.) Could this be why it started up after 40 minutes while waiting for AAA???? Any and all ideas/feedback appreciated......BTW-with 3 cars, me, my husband, and son in college with one, there is no way we can afford another car payment. Really trying to keep this up and running but very frustrating as I was leaving for water aerobics and well, I am now on computer searching for answers....

 

The electrical part of the ignition switch are known to go bad with symptoms like you are having. Have someone measure the voltage to the small connection on the starter when you try to start the car. No or low voltage may be this part. To change it you have to unplug it under the dash then take out two slotted screws to make it come free. It is kind of tight in there. You did not say what type of volvo I am assuming a 940, 740 or 240. If this is not your problem the best automobile electical book I know of is: Tracy Martin "How to diagnose and repair automobile electrical systems" I think you can find it on Amazon for under $20

 

Ok..will try...thanks for the reply and suggestion. Just wondering, even though car runs sporadically it has all new sparks and the battery is new. Radio, lights all come on. Not sure I understand--does electrcial system include battery? or is ignition something separate? Just learning as I go along but I thought that if there was plenty of spark and battery fine, then it had to be something other that electrical system. My husband seems to think it's fuel related--even though I fiiled up tank full, he thought I had no gas in car because even if full, the needle guage stays on e(mpty). Another minor nuisance but If I hit the needle with the back of a screwdriver the needle will show what's in the tank.
Anyhow, I will have him measure the voltage to the starter when he gets home from work. (By the way the car is a 1993 940 Turbo.) Thanks again!

 

You can get the switch at Volvo Parts, BMW Parts, European Car Parts | FCPGroton.com I buy most of my stuff there because I haven't found anyone cheaper and they get my orders right. I think it is probably this switch because it isn't cutting out on you as you drive along. If that were the case I would think it might be the big fuel injection fuse (I think 25 amp) on inner drivers fender near silver headlight relay (the fuse holder crumbles) or the fuel pump relay (big white relay in my 240 it is against the firewall above the passengers right foot (peel back carpet) One last mode of common failure is the very expensive air mass sensor. Usually it works or it doesn't period. Unplugging it puts the computer into "limp home mode" where it meters fuel solely according to accelerator position. It drives pretty weird like this...steady throttle works. I buy air mass sensors used for about $20 to $30 from Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market look under air flow meter.