In tank pump replaced and drove 365 miles in 97 degree heat without stopping except to tank up. Thanks for the help guys. Still seems to new of a pump to go bad.

Hey, it happens all too often these days. Not only are most pumps made in China but they make excellent counterfeits of Bosch pumps. We've had name brand pumps fail so often that we test them all prior to installation. Really sad...original pumps lasting 20 years and today's replacement pumps, if lucky, often failing after 4 years. Today's higher quality pumps seem to be made with smaller wiring, shoddier windings and generally less of everything. It's an axiom to never run your tank less than a quarter tank as the gasoline cools the pump. Still, today's pumps seem far too dainty.
Here's hoping it is cured!

What better way to make money than to put a lifetime warranty on a part that weighs half as last years exact product, then change business names by the time they all start failing (next week). Anyway, good, hope it lasts. In fact I changed my in-tank pump, hose, and sock as well. Not to happy with IPD at the moment as they sent me a broken pump in the first place. Then the hose I received is only grade 30R7, plus it does not fit snugly on the sender unit. :mad:
At least it cured the sluggishness...

Swift: The 30R10 is some expensive stuff! $22 a foot? Why so much? How long would you say the 30R7 lasts in gasoline if you know.

I caught this thread late. Anybody ever use Walboro Fuel Pumps?

No, but their slogan says "We Enable Machines That Make Life Better!" You can't go wrong with that statement, right? :rolleyes:

You guys are awesome. Same problem here but with very limited funds.
Please let me know if this is a good way to go.
Eventually I want to replace both pumps and filter and the relay but for now
should I go relay first,then in tank fuel pump then in line filter then in line pump?
1988 Volvo 240 GL cuts out after extended driving in the heat. After about 20 minutes of cooling down it ran okay again. Then it cut off so I waited 30 minutes the next time while having lunch at McDonalds then it made it home. It sounds to me like a relay although I noticed the in line tank doesn't look to be ever touched. The original seal in the trunk seems unbroken.
So relay first then in tank pump second? Relay seems to be about 30 bucks and the pump about 40 but I'm willing to may a little more for quality.
Another thing. Auto Zone doesn't seem to have 1988 240 GL in their database. They have 244 GL instead. As far as fuel issues go does this make a difference? Or should I go Napa? I want to get these parts this weekend so on line is not realistic for me right now.

indeed, my 92 745T was running nearly fine with a completely dead intank pump, it was just making the external pump run noisier, and it was lagging at high throttle+boost+RPMs, and it was a bit hard to start with low fuel. new intank pump, and vrooom!

pain in the butt on a 740/940 to get that flange thing back in correctly. ended up having to buy a new lock ring for the flange as the old one kept popping off before it was even halfway tight, even with the 'hose' clamp around it.

What I learned from this thread is that a relay is cheaper than an intank pump is cheaper than an transfer pump and filter. Napa was sure to ask if I wanted the relay and pump kit which included the two pumps, the tank gasket, a relay and the filter all for way more than the car was worth ($150ish) Since I had already replaced the relay and the next step was the intank pump all I was willIng to spend was the pump for $60 or so.

I would NOT get Volvo parts at a Napa or other chain parts store.

but, if you really feel your car is only worth $150, well, then your time must be really worthless.

$150? Where are you? Sell me your 240, and end your woes. ;)

No woes with it. I live paycheck to paycheck. Which makes me of the school "if it aint broke dont fix it." so when an intank pump fails I am definitely not buying the main pump too for more than twice what I can get away with spending. Sure it would be preventative maintainence but that pump runs fine I replace it when it breaks. As far as buying my 244. Note my price compared to the junk yards. If you still want it go ahead and private message me.

You can get that price in the article about the 3million mile p1800.

before buying relays and pumps, you test the ones you have.

test the fuel relay with a volt meter.... volt meter on the fuel fuse (its #11 on a 740/940 but I forget what it is on a 240), and you should read power there for about 1 second when you turn the key on, and steady power when the engine is running. if you don't, then that relay is suspect, but first, verify that the fuel pump relay pin 85 has power always, and fuel pump relay pin 86/2 is grounded when the ignition is turned on for about 1 second and stays grounded if/when the engine is running, as thats what actuates the fuel pump relay. also verify there is power on fuel pump relay pin 30 (which comes from fuse 1 on the 740, again I don't have a 240 wiring diagram handy). if any of that doesn't test out correctly, then and only then, that relay is likely bad.

disconnect the primary pump, and disconnect the gas line from the tank to the primary pump, put said line into a bucket and manually power the secondary pump. does gas come out? good. hook that back up and power both pumps and test the fuel pressure at the fuel pressure rail, pressure should be like 40PSI or something (look it up, I'm going from memory). if you got pressure, then the primary pump is good too (and so is the fuel pressure regulator) so if you're still having problems, its likely something else. if you can't beg/borrow/steal a fuel pressure gauge, disconnect the fuel line at the rail, and securely connect it to a hose going into a large empty fuel can, and manually power the fuel pumps (jumping power to fuse 11 would do it on a 740/940, again I dunno the 240 as well), and you should see quite a lot of fuel going into said jug. no fuel or a relatively weak flow, and then and only then I'd start worrying about the primary pump.

Bought another relay anyway and I bought another in tank pump only because there was absolutely no signs that the trunk cover was ever removed. The screen was absolutely dirty and the pump looked original. And my odometer stopped at 250 thousand. But even before this the car ran fine with no bucking or stalling. Only did this after about 2 hours of continuous driving in the heat.
The amount of dirt and rust I had to remove was incredible just to get to the pump. And for those just starting this swap you turn the assembly counter clockwise to remove it. Couldn't find this info anywhere else.
So now it runs like it always does. I'm thinking the relay because it too is original part. I do hope it's not something else. I cleaned out all the connectors at my fuse box as well and replaced them with all new glass type fuses.
I do still want to replace the filter and inline pump just for the sake of peace of mind. The inline pump does not look original and the filter looks replaced too so maybe I can actually wait on that.