Volvo 242 turbo won't start/idle
#1
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Hello, I have a kjet 242 turbo and it won't start on its own or idle. It sounds perfectly fine and will start and run forever if you depress the accelerator pedal but the moment you let go it dies and it won't start itself without it depressed? I've been struggling with this for a week, the only thing I can think of is the iac valve but Ive tried wiring it in every direction possible
#2
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First make sure there are no air leaks between the fuel metering plate and the throttle plate - including the injector seals, intake manifold gasket, and all the vacuum lines plugged into the manifold after the plate - The booster check valves break sometimes and create a large air leak. Any large enough air leak will cause the fuel metering plate to not lift enough to spray fuel - and the engine won't stay running.
If there are no leaks -
The idle speed is controlled by the amount of air allowed past the throttle plate with the plate closed. (with the appropriate amount of fuel at the same time of course) The iac/idlemotor/automatic air valve/whatever you want to call it - is supposed to provide additional air at idle when needed, such as a cold engine, ac compressor is on, or power steering or alternator puts an additional load on the engine. You can adjust around it - older engines did not have an IAC.
"Ive tried wiring it in every direction possible" - there may be a problem with it now that you have messed with it - make sure its not stuck open or closed - it should make a buzzing sound (hear it with a stethoscope) - the ?996 idle motors get stuck, the brushes dig grooves in the commutator and prevent the armature from moving properly. (if so you can adjust around it)
So, make sure there are no air leaks, I use carb cleaner, spray where there might be leaks after visual inspection. The spray will change the idle (guess that means adjust the throttle plate if needed to keep it idling first.)
Clean the throttle plate, before adjustment then use the set screw to give the engine enough air to idle, when hot ~750 rpms.
If there are no leaks -
The idle speed is controlled by the amount of air allowed past the throttle plate with the plate closed. (with the appropriate amount of fuel at the same time of course) The iac/idlemotor/automatic air valve/whatever you want to call it - is supposed to provide additional air at idle when needed, such as a cold engine, ac compressor is on, or power steering or alternator puts an additional load on the engine. You can adjust around it - older engines did not have an IAC.
"Ive tried wiring it in every direction possible" - there may be a problem with it now that you have messed with it - make sure its not stuck open or closed - it should make a buzzing sound (hear it with a stethoscope) - the ?996 idle motors get stuck, the brushes dig grooves in the commutator and prevent the armature from moving properly. (if so you can adjust around it)
So, make sure there are no air leaks, I use carb cleaner, spray where there might be leaks after visual inspection. The spray will change the idle (guess that means adjust the throttle plate if needed to keep it idling first.)
Clean the throttle plate, before adjustment then use the set screw to give the engine enough air to idle, when hot ~750 rpms.
Last edited by hoonk; 07-29-2021 at 05:07 PM.
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