Vovlo 240 Over Heats While Idle- Replaced everything
 

I was in the drive through tonight Burger King, it was 87 degrees outside. There wasn't about a 5 minute wait in the drive through. I had left from my house(cold engine) and drove to Burger king in 8 minutes.

This is a 1990 Volvo 240 DL...they do not come with a electric fan in front of the radiator.

The temp. does not go wildly up and down...it's a slow upriseing when the car sits still...and this is not everytime but random.

While I was in the drive through the temp needle slowly started to raise from half way to 3/4 high before I drove off. Once I drive off the temp needle goes down...usually stays a little below the half way line.

This problem has been sporatic over the years but lately happens more often. Here's what I have done in the past 2 years:
1) New Nissen Radiator
2) New thermastat(made sure it was installed propperly with the needle faceing 12 o clock)
3) New Belt Fan
4) 4 years ago had a new water pump installed.

I like to have my car wash...I'm scared that my car might start overheating one day when it is at the car wash. Is this a true overheating while the car sits still where the pistons would crack?

What else could be causeing this problem?

You did not mention the fan clutch in your list of replacements.I also have a 1990 DL240 and had a similar situation as you. I would strongly suspect the fan clutch. I do not have the expertise to reliably diagnose a failing fan clutch, so I replaced mine with the tropical version (I live in Georgia) and have not had a repeat of the rising heat. If you do replace your fan clutch it is a very straightforward repair. I hope this helps.

Fred

Have you checked the thermal fan clutch? It sounds as if the fan isn't pulling enough air. Also, you did not mention if this happens only w/ ac running.
Is it actually overheating? My guess would be yes as it's doing it under circumstances that are normal to see overheating. The only way to be certain is to take some temps w/ an infrared non-contact thermometer (IR gun). Is it getting too hot? I don't know...Aluminum heads bolted to cast iron heads require much more delicacy in operation than cast iron heads. Because different metals expand and contract at different rates, head gaskets fail more often. So, IMO, Volvos should not ever get into the red...

sorry, i forgot to mention i put in a new fan clutch also. i even used the tropical version for the extra cooling.


I had the AC off because wasn't that hot and it was night.

Hmmm...My 89 w/o an aux fan would creep up to 10 o'clock idling w/ the a/c on in summer but that was it. I added an aux fan and rather than wiring it to the overheat sensor (factory temp threshold is way too high) I wired it to a rocker switch on the dash. Resolved my issues. Still, with everything relatively new, that shouldn't be an issue for you. It's possible the thermostat is sticking; I like Wahler brand rather than generic. If you have recently refilled the system, you might have an airlock...idling with the heater turned to hot and the reservoir will usually get rid of it. Also, it is possible it is not a true failure of anything but the temp compensation board. The board's purpose was to make drivers less nervous about fluctuations in temp readings. It should be noted that all cars run hotter during protracted idle. W/o a temp circuit, the gauge would naturally rise at idle. IPD has a replacement or work around unit I believe. Finally, it is possible you have a bad head gasket. Warming the car up from cold with the reservoir cap off and then revving the car to 3-4 k, watch and see if coolant pukes out of the overflow. That's asign that the engine gases are seeping into the cooling system and pressurizing the system. Exhaust gases are pretty hot so will make a car run hot. Doesn't really sound like what you're experiencing but is a possibility. Shops can also test the coolant for combustion by-products, another sign of head gasket leaking. If the temp gauge does the creep thing on long drives also, it would be my suspect. Finally, if the thermostat is working, then I'd take radiator temp readings. If readings are ok, then I'd look at the comp board on the cluster.

I often drive from Austin to SA(about 1 1/2 hours) and while I am driveing...moveing...the car stays extra cool...even in 100 degree weather at daytime. The needle stays a little below the middle line. I don't know if this info would help any.

If it is the the comp board on the cluster, wouldn't the needle move sporatically instead of gradually?

It can sporadically move gradually. :D

I bet it was the Burger King parking lot that made it hot. ;)

Anyways, get that comp board out of there.

Can you solder?

I'm at expert at soldering....I'm just not sure how to get that part out to do it.

Have you tried getting a heat gun and see what the temps are when the car idle's. Before I pull the gage or spend any more replacing parts I would verify if the engine temp is actual or a gage issue. I'm still thinking that the fan clutch may be the contributor.

Good luck
 

I had a 1990 240 DL with the same problem. it would just randomly overheat. Usually at Idle. Radiator, thermostat, and fan assembly were changed with the same problem. My solution was I upgraded to the 2002 S40. Although I still have the 240 as it is a beautiful car.

Then this will be easy.

1. Remove the cluster
It is held in by four screws. You'll have to remove the plate where the running lights, fog light switch, and dimmer knob is. You will also have to remove the two blanks or gauge bezels on the other side of the cluster. It is best to have a short screw driver. Or you can get creative and tape whatever unique bit you need to a 1/4 wrench.
Attachment 18884

2. Remember where the wires go.
You can't possible put the wrong wires in the wrong places really. Just remember the yellow/red on goes in bottom right corner, and the 90 degree connector goes into your speedometer. If you have a big tachometer, note where that wire goes. The male spade goes to your cluster between the clock/tach and speedometer. the female connector goes to your tachometer.
Attachment 18885
Attachment 18886

3. Temp board removal.
The circuit board is below and between the temp and fuel gauge. The clips holding it back need to be pushed aside and slip one side of the board out. Then do the same for the other side and pull it out.
Attachment 18887
Attachment 18888
Attachment 18889

4. Solder away.
The rest is yours, looking down at the cluster, just like you would if it was in the dash, solder the first pin, to the third pin. Hopefully, you can solder better than me, but it works!
Attachment 18890
Attachment 18891

And yes, my car has been in a flood...

wow! thank you so much for showing me these steps! I will def. do this.

I think I have an additional problem. For the past 3 days my car's thermostat will stay consistently at 3/4 hot...instead of the usual random problem. When I say consistently, I mean only when going through the drive through of Mcdonalds or at red lights. When on the highway it stays cool in the middle. I checked the water level and it was a gallon and a half empty. So I filled it up and I will see how that goes. So far the car engine seems to idle/run ok. Is there a chance I did any damage to the pistons from the heat at red lights or the drive through?