91 940SE turbo
 

Car was operating very nicely, got back from a 1500 mile road trip, no problems. Yesterday while doing some errands locally and stopping and going to several locations upon the last stop when I returned to the car to come home the vehicle would not start. I checked the to see if it was getting fuel, fuel was flowing from the fuel pressure regulator and to the fuel rail. Tested the coil resistance; primary winding was in specs 0.8 ohms (0.5-1.5 ohms). However, the secondary winding was 10.9 kilohms (out of specs) (8-9 kilohms) so I replaced it. Still will not fire. Checked to see if timing belt broke, not. What is left? Radio noise suppression and/or ignition relays? They are less than 3 months old. New plugs, wires, cap and rotor before road trip. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Checked for trouble codes with OBD system 1-1-1 in position 2 and 1-1-1 in position 6.:confused:

Have you checked for spark at the plugs? Do you have a 'noid light to see if injectors are firing? Changed the rotor lately? I know you said you'd replaced some stuff lately, but it's not unheard of for a rotor to crap out after a road trip. Especially nowadays with crappy product. Also, the fuel pump relay is actually 2 relays in one. One side fires the pump(s) but the other side lights the injectors...so if you have no power to the injectors and the radio suppression relay is good might check there.
The crank sensor will crap out and do this...also, less commonly the ignitor on the driver's side inner fender by the battery can crap out.

Thanks act1292! Removed the oil cap on my son's 1991 Volvo 940SE Turbo to verify that the timing belt is broken.

I am worried about getting the right belt and instructions for replacement on the 940SE turbo. Mainly because the local autopart store website does not give the turbo option or 940SE engine option. and it has a bundle with a belt and new tensioner pulley.

https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/CNZTB4032KIT

And maybe I should replace serpentine belt, oil pump bolt and water pump while I am at it!
http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900F...1.html#Engine: Seals, Belts, Crankcase Ventilation


Elmwoodie.

That belt on that looks right... All B230F, B230FT take the same belt, tensioner, etc.
That 1991 SE has no serpentine belt, has several accessory belts.
Oil pump bolt?
Water pump and crankcase vent. are not part of the timing belt change (unlike some newer cars)...

Thanks for the info lev! That's all good news!

Today my son and I will just do a little dissambly following the terribly unspecific Chilton DIY.

See how far we get and if the job seems within range of our capabilities.

Elmwoodie

Throw that Chilton away, it's total garbage. All the info you need is online, just put "volvo b230 timing belt change" in any search engine and you get all you need.

Make sure that you are looking at the right powertrain in the Chilton's manual. Volvo's 2.3 Liter engine was installed in thousands of vehicles; 240, 740, 780, 940, so doing the timing belt should be a straight forward job.

When these cars were newer, we sold hundreds and I did a timing belt in about an hour, including new oil seals. The job is pretty easy and there are easy to find timing marks on the sprockets.

Thanks for the advice.
Turns out the belt is twisted and fallen off.
https://1drv.ms/v/s!AuWMiVd3zVwZn-lbZ6Ik6LbKvAQ5NQ

I thought I was going to be able to ubolt and chain the crankshaft pulley in place to remove it, but it looks like I will now be ordering a crankshaft counterhold to use.
$80 Canadian on ebay: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/2242-CRANKSH...cAAOxyyF5RXBIM

Hopefully find someone who will ship to Canada and also has spring tension pulley, timing belt, alternator belt and powersteering belt, cam seal, intermediate shaft seal and crank seal as well.

Thanks,
Elmwoodie

you don't really need that thing--there are many other ways to get that bolt off...
I have one but before that I used the "rope trick" quite successfully. I also used the "starter womp', that one, I don't recommend.

Thanks all for help! Car is running great yet again. Having the crankshaft holder tool was the easiest solution for us.