960 head bolt sequence.
 

Can someone tell me the head bolt sequence and torque specs. I have them somewhere but I get a little screwed up at the end. It lists tightening them to two different torques then says something which I think its degrees of turn ?

this is the sequence and torque specs for 94 960
 

http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AF...23827/78976229



Tighten head bolts in the sequence shown (starting from center and working outwards) using 3 separate stages:

Stage 1 - Tighten to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.)
Stage 2 - Tighten to 60 Nm (44 ft. lbs.)
Stage 3 - Tighten an additional 130°

• Use new cylinder head gasket.
• Oil bolts.
• Max. length of M12 head bolts: 158.00 mm

Do I need cam tool to tighten valve cover down ?
 

Do I need the special took for locking the cams ? Anyway I set the cams down in the head some lobs are pushing down on the lifters and I dont want to crank down the valve cover to push the valves down ? Do I need the tool or can the cams be set in by tightening the valve cover ?

You will not need the cam tool, keep the crank at it's timing mark, this has all pistons below the deck, so you will not have to be concerned about the valves hitting them. Once the crank is on it's timing mark the cams will be able to rotate freely without interference.

Something must be wrong with the site, it keeps pulling a different diagram to place in the first response. It would be great to access that library of diagrams.


DanR

pistons below deck
 

When my crank is on its mark two of the pistons are about a 1/4" below the deck is that normal ?

Yes, that is plenty of clearance for the valves.

I used 4 c-clamps to bring down the head top. If you you the bolts, then you will have to turn each of the 42 the same one revolution, it will take some time. They will strip if not done as even as possible, that why I used the c-clamps.

DanR

Valve cover sealant
 

Dan,

Thanks again for all your help. Got the head on lastnight and just snugged bolts finger tight for now incase I need to take it back off.. Spend most the night trying to get intake bolts in.. what a pain ! I have three left on the bottom that are going to be a total pain in the ass. My question is when I put the cam cover back on I have that special pink compound and it says to use a little roller to apply ? Do I apply to one surface or both ? And would I only put it around the outside edge since there are orings inside to keep oil from spillling into plug holes ?

I used a small foam roller to apply the sealant/glue to the top piece, I believe my volvo rebuild book says that is the way to do it.

You might have trouble using the clamps if you have the intake manifold in place, the c-clamps go where the alignment pins are, there is just enough to grip there that overhangs the head.

I have done the process without clamps using just the bolts, but it was painstakingly slow.

The aluminum is soft and the threads pull out easily. The current head has helicoils on all 42 bolt holes.

DanR

I didnt even think about that
 

I didnt even think about that being in the way.. i was trying to get the intake on first because the bolts below are impossible to get to and wanted to make sure I could get it on before I torqued down the head.. one more question.. I read that the back slits on the cams are offset and they need to face the same way when putting the cams in ? Does that make a difference ? What is the point. If the gears are on their marks you can spin each cam one at a time to get them in place ?

I disconnect the intake pieces by separating at the 6 hoses. The stainless steel clamps are reusable it you gently bend them back, use tile nippers to close them.

Since you already have the cam gears attached to the cams, don't concern yourself with the flats at the rear. With the crank on it's mark, the cams will turn freely without interference.

Where to apply the sealing on cam cover
 

Dan,

Where do I put the sealant on the cam cover. Obviously on the outer edge but I am curious about the centers where the o rings are. Do I need to put any on that surface or the mating half of the cam cover.

Timing belt tension
 

dan which way does the motor rotate while looking at it.. I am guessing clockwise. My question is when i rotate by hand counterclockwise the timing belt is not right on the right side of the motor but when i spin it clockwise its tight and the tensioner takes up the slack on the otherside.. I am pretty sure this is how it works since I sput the power steering pump clockwise and I can feel it pumping vs the other way and it feels like its free wheeling. I just have to put the exhaust manifold on and fuel rail and some wires and should find out if it runs. I spun the motor buy hand a bunch of times with no problems. The cam cover bolts are only 13ft #s which really seams light to me. I would thin they would loosen up easy and cause leaks ?

Yes, place the sealant on all surfaces, including the oring areas, except where the cam goes, lightly oil the journal for the cams. Use a decent film, but not to the point that is will sag and drip, somewhat like painting a wall in the home, heavy coverage but not dripping or sagging.

DanR

Just a guess, but I think it is going counterclockwise, the slack in the belt would make sense to be on the weak side with the tensioner pulley.

That is the correct bolt torque, the glue is what really holds the part on, besides any more torque and it would pull out the threads in the holes. Very easy to do.

One thing, be sure to turn the engine over by hand two revolutions after the timing belt is on, then check your marks for all three.

Then before installing the spark plugs, crank the engine for a couple of minutes, this will push some oil up into the head.

DanR


Dan

Thats great.. thats exactly how i did it.. I tell you this is not rebuilding a small block chevy or snowmobiles but Ive done a good job so far.. hope she runs tonight.. My next issue will be making sure the injectors dont leak. I work for a Hydraulic sales company and will use some o ring lube on them.

That great, feels good doesn't it? It is only slightly more complicated than an old 6-8 cylinder. Let us know when you start it up.

The key to the injectors are those little pancake like seals at the top of the injector, and the fit of the fuel rail when tightening it down.

DanR

Hoping for no leaks
 

[quote=dan550i;248395]That great, feels good doesn't it? It is only slightly more complicated than an old 6-8 cylinder. Let us know when you start it up.

The key to the injectors are those little pancake like seals at the top of the injector, and the fit of the fuel rail when tightening it down.

DanR[/quote

I hope I dont have any oil leaks. I am sure i have enough sealing on the cam cover and have the new o rings in where the plugs go. I am just concerned about the four oil seals on the cams. They are all new but I could only do my best to make sure the placement was good on the head before I put the cam cover down.. because thats the blind part of the job.

Thanks again for all of your help ! You've been a savior !

cam position sensor
 

I noticed that the cam position sensor just goes into the bracket but doenst plug into anything ? Seems stranger. It doesnt really look like a connecting wire at all.

There should be a connector on the end of that wire, and there should be a corresponding wire harness connector. The engine will run without that but not very well and will seem sluggish.

There are three separate wires on that bracket, the rpm sensor, cam sensor and a lone female lead with a white/red wire. That lone wire is a test lead for the ignition system.

DanR

lone wire
 

That lone wire is the one I am talking about.. Its the middle one that goes no where. I looked allover for the male mating end but when i looked inside it didnt even look like it connected to anything.. Phew thats a relief. I was getting worried. There are three connections there, Like you said, Rpm, cam, then the lone white female lead.