Brand new injectors still getting 1-1-3 code

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Old 08-29-2023, 01:06 AM
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Default Brand new injectors still getting 1-1-3 code

Trying this again since I didn’t get a good response last time, got a 1990 Volvo 760 turbo with 220k miles will start up and run just fine but as soon as the engine starts to warm up it gets rough and idles poorly eventually stalling. It’s slow at accelerating. Upon starting it and letting it warm up I can kinda smell what appears to be raw fuel. I’ve replaced injectors, o2 sensor, crankshaft position sensor, tps, idle air control, and maf, along with fuel regulator. I’ve checked for vacuum leaks and found none. I had a code for o2 sensor and maf being faulty which have been fixed could it be spark plugs? I haven’t looked at those yet but it’s on the list of things to replace, others have said it could be my coolant temp sensor or cold start valve, although it doesn’t have a hard time starting when it’s cold I wouldn’t think it’s any of those. Compression is good so I know that’s not an issue, it was taken to a shop as well for 2 new fuel pumps and filter as well to try and fix the problem to no avail. I’m running out of ideas and there’s no where on the internet that I can find with a solution. I’m about to scrap this car down and use it for parts if I can’t get this beloved b230ft running right
 
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Old 08-29-2023, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Whereis509
will start up and run just fine but as soon as the engine starts to warm up it gets rough and idles poorly eventually stalling. It’s slow at accelerating.
If there is a voltage drop or bad connection to generally any component - you will have problems.

That car should have a couple of relays (don't have a wiring diagram for 90, below is for a 94) that commonly develop cracks in solder joints on the circuit board. That creates resistance and a voltage drop. Resistance creates heat, heat makes voltage drop worse, car shuts off and restarts when relay cools down. The relays usually crack where the solenoid wires are soldered to the circuit board. Most humans need a magnifying glass to see the cracks. (my shop has replace hundreds of bad ones over the years)

The relay 2/12 sends power to the injectors, through 20/15 the ballast resister. Check connections at the ballast resister also. (I haven't looked but isn't your code an injector code that might have convinced you to replace them?) And yes you should check your spark plugs /cap rotor wires - probably not causing your problems but the basic stuff should always be checked FIRST.





 
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