Hello, I stripped the timing belt tensioner pulley bolt, which i t-45 torx.
I have the new one next to me, and I spun the roller of the new one and old one to just compare, and the old one seems a tiny bit tighter than the new one... No play what so ever....
Do I really need to change the pulley? I changed the idler pulley and tensioner itself...
My car has 140k miles right now, and yes I know the pulley needs to be changed, but the damn bolt won't come off...

I don't know how to remove the bolt, since the space is so tight, I can't use tap&die set... I can't use a bigger torx bit with a hammer because there is not space to hammer it....

Any advice here? I really need to decide what to do before I put everything back....if I must replace the pulley, but if I can't do it, I will take it to a shop and ask them to replace it. That is my final option, but I honestly don't want to do that since it will cost me at least $200..

 

This is a tough call because 140K miles is a lot of mileage on a tensioner. I would try to see if you could maybe drill the bolt some with a small bit and maybe JBwelled something in the hole so that once it dries, you can use a pair of vise grips or something to get the bolt out.

If in the end, you can't get it out, then I guess you would have to leave it. :-\

 

As I remember that bolt is opposite the frame so you're correct, no room to drill, unless you pull the engine but we don't want to go there..

When I did my TB and pulleys I removed that metal ducting for the ECU box that goes toward the firewall; gave me lots more working room. You have to remove the ECUs to do this (be careful).

The torx driver can strip if slips out of the bolt; it needs to held in there with force.

Make sure you have a quality torx driver; if it is now rounded at the edges, go to Sears and get the craftsman or better quality torx tool.

What I did was not use my 3/8" wrench on the torx driver; I attached my vise-grip pliers to it instead (clamp it very tight so it won't slip). Insert into the bolt where you can apply good torque to the pliers. But before you start to apply turning pressure, use the biggest pry bar you have and wedge it between the frame and the end of the torx driver, keeping it from slipping out. If necessary, have a helper apply pressure to the pry bar while you attempt to break the bolt loose.

If this doesn't work you're looking at grinding the head of the bolt off (assuming you can get a grinder in there) or pulling the engine to get better access.

Good luck! BTW: this is what wrenching is all about...

 

Thank you so much for the replies.

I decided to drill a hole on the wheel well and drill the bolt head off. I know it sucks to make a hole on the car, but I think that is the best option I have.
I am going to drill the damn thing out

 

Good luck to you!