Most likely you do not need to buy a complete assembly. You would only need the core/motor portion. The OEM is Hella-Pierburg. I would replace the fuel pump relay as well; they are known to fail after years.

http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-ex...37/by_year/45/

Genuine Volvo is $185 + shipping, aftermarket (ARC) is $85 + shipping.


JPN

 

Hi, just went and read your post as well. It looks like you are a little further into the process of throwing parts at this than I am. So far I only have a fuel filter (needed anyway), and a fuel pump relay. I see where you looked at the fuel injector relay as well. I can check that when my daughter gets home from school this afternoon. Trying to avoid the pump replacement, but with 140k miles on the car it might be time anyway.

Good Luck with your car (and daughter),

Kirk

 

Hey now ,
Did the car ever run out of gas? I allowed, not on purpose, the Brick to run out of gas and for the next two weeks the car would stall on acceleration, idling at the light and once in rush hour traffic[:@] . If you did you may have, or had,air in the line. My stalling issue slowly diminished over a two period. Thank god.

Nothing like the grill of a big rig filling the entire rear gate window to make you curse yourself for being absent minded.

This may have only been in my case but it did finally correct itself.

Let us know.

[sm=icon_cheers.gif]

 

If you go back and review the first post you will see that the car was low enough that I was not sure I would make it to a gas station so I added some gas from a can that I had handy. That is when we started having problems. At first I just attributed it to bad gas, but we have been through several tanks now with the trouble continuing. I also changed the fuel filter so that would also introduce air into the lines. Is this a real possibility? Should I just keep driving it and see it it gets any better. I am also considering pulling the pump just to see if the intake is gunked up before I go all the way for a replacement since it does not seem to be too bad a job.

Thanks for any help,

Kirk

 

Thanks,

I have read this post from the start again and see what you're saying. Bummer with the issue. As I mentioned, my issue may not be yours.

Have you had the tank drained?

If there is a concern of an accumulation of sediment/condensationin the tank fouling the pump then this would be the first step and could be done fairly easily.

Let us knowyour solution when you find it.

[sm=icon_cheers.gif]

 

Thanks for your interest in this.

Is there a tank drain that I could do this myself or should I run it until it is almost empty, pull the pump, and see what I can wipe up with a long handled device of some sort? Is there anything else I should be considering besides the fuel system? I am also trying to notice weather conditions when we have trouble, the thought being that it could also be ignition related (wires, distributor, plugs). I would expect these to be an issue if we are having problems when weather is wet.

Kirk

 

Hey now ,

I had tank issues with an old '86 Grand AM (nickel'd and dime'd me to death) and had to siphon out, after running it low, what was left in the tank and removed it and the pump. Washed and wiped it out and let it dry out completly before reinstalling.

All done in the driveway on three different occassions with a set of wheel chocks, jack stands, a proper car jackand simple hand tools and got faster at it each time. Just don't forget to disconnect the wire harness before dropping the tank.

[sm=icon_cheers.gif]

 

OK, car has degenerated to the point it will hardly start at all just today. Have focused on fuel system since no significant error codes were reported, and also since the trouble started after running it so low. Have changed Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump Relay with no improvement, am I on the right track and should I move on to the fuel pump or is it time to start over. At this point I don't think I can even limp it into Autozone to get the codes read again.

Thanks to all who have taken an interest in this,

Kirk

 

when I changed my pump the fuil looked fine with 183000 on the tank. ( but thats in Ca.) going to try the Fuel Pump Relay next.[sm=smiley21.gif]

 

Random references[8D].


JPN

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[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/E3E1884FBF76432988AC5D52C310755A.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/A6E8BAA337E0478F8B6A92EE0932BF94.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/E17FA6430F1B4D38A1F123D79BF7416D.jpg[/IMG]

 

Rather than throwing money at it you can jumper the fuel pump relay so as to either confirm that it is the problem or eliminate it as a problem.

Remove relay number 103 from the upper fuse box. You need to remove the 4 torx screws and the cover to get to it. Once the relay is removed look at the bottom ofthe relayand identify pins number 87 and 15. Fashion a jumper wire and jumper the socket positions associated with those pins. If the car starts up and runs fine then chances are the relay has indeed failed or is in the process of failing.

You can either replace it or if you are handy with a soldering iron and have a nearby Radio Shack you can fix it yourself.

Here is how I fix my relays.

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/cha...pic.php?t=9681

Driving the car for an extended period of time with the relay jumpered can lead to a fire hazard were the car to be in an accident but it is a good diagnostic measure.

...Lee

 

More Symptoms...

Just wanted to see if car would start this morning and it fired right off and sounded pretty normal. Drove it back and forth in the driveway and seemed fine. I don't think my daughter will drive it for quite a while, she is not very experienced and it stalled as she was trying to turn left across a highway at a busy time of day yesterday. It gave her a pretty good scare. Once we had it to the side of the road it just would not start, coughed and hiccuped enough that I thought it might go but never did. Went back a few hours later with a chain intending to drag it back to our driveway and it did manage to start after repeated cranking. Limped it home, but it was struggling to accellerate most of the way home (~2 miles). Once it was in our driveway I revved it and it promptly died and would not start again.

That brings me to this morning and it started right up, go figure...

Any ideas? Should I go ahead and mess with the fuel pump or does this sound like it could be something else. Maybe something that would reset as it cooled over night. I am confused at this point.

Thanks,

Kirk

 

Here is a list of the common "stalling" culprits on the 850. Start at the top and work your way down the list. All the cheap stuff likely need replacing anyway. If one of the cheap things ends up solving the problem, then you've saved yourself some money and avoided replacing some of the more expensive parts unnecessarily. Hope this helps.



Clogged PCV (Remove the Flame trap and check for carbon buildup/blockage)
Dirty MAF Sensor (Get some Electronic cleaner and spray the element - don't touch-$10)
Clogged Fuel Filter (Replace - Behind Rear passenger wheel - $12)
Faulty Thermostat (Easy fix - On top of engine behind P-Steering Resevoir - $8)
Badly Fouled Plugs (Replace - $15)
Bad Distributor Cap or rotor (Replace Both-$30)
Dying Fuel Pump Relay (Replace-$30)
Bad Oxygen sensor (Replace with universal and spice in wires - $25)
Bad Crank Position Sensor (Lower engine on flywheel - $45)
Fuel Injection Relay (Replace -$60)
Fuel Pressure Regulator (Replace - $75)
Bad Throttle Position Sensor (At throttle body $80 )
Bad MAF Sensor (In tube coming out od airbox - $100 )
Bad Cam Position Sensor (Drivers side of engine attached to cam with wires coming out - $130 )
Bad Fuel Pump ( At tank $250 )

 

Your symptoms sound very much like what we went through with our 97 850GLT. My suggestion is to check all of your vacuum lines. We had a broken one that I couldn't see, down behind the power steering pump and alternator. It cause our car to do very much what yours is doing. We could start it, and drive it slowly for a time, then it would shut off and not run. Leave it alone for a few hours, started just fine. Eventually, it was sputter and die again.

We had to have a shop diagnose and fix it, because, as I said, I couldn't see where it was broken. They had to remove some stuff to get to it.

 

I wouldn't use universal type O2 sensor. I would go with direct-fit OEM Bosch. The fuel pump is at $185+ shipping at FCP Groton; you only need the insert, not the entire assembly. The entire assembly only comes with the outer shell, which you can recycle from the original unit.


JPN

 

Put the new Fuel Pump Relay in tonight ($35.) and drove it for 25 miles with no stalling.will let you know after a few days.[sm=wootwoot.gif]

 

Good Luck with your car (and daughter). My childis car shopping, much to my chagrine. Now I need to get the 850 running so my wife can take it back.

BTW, where did you find a relay for $35? I ended up over at the Volvo dealer and it was ~$85 from their parts dept. Could not find one at any of the local parts houses (if ordered in it was still $50-60)and did not want to wait to order one.

Kirk

 

Anybody got a procedure for locating vacuum leaks? I would really like to avoid taking it in, but obviously the shot gun parts approach gets expensive after a while too. So far it is not too bad and really just have done things that probably should have been part of normal Preventative Maintenance anyway.

Thanks for the tip,

Kirk

 

Thanks for this list. I have already replace the thermostat, fuel filter, and fuel pump relay. Are there any of these other pieces that fit the intermittent nature of my trouble?

Kirk

 

How you going with your 850 Kirk? did you try the injetorrelay by the radiator befor you change the fuil pump ?