Hey guys. I finally got to try another ecu, it didn't help. And with the new ecu, i still can't get a response from the ECU, so i'm thinking the ecu harness is damaged, how would i go about testing each led with a MM and fixing it, or is this something a volvo specialist should take care of?

 

I would first look on the back of the OBD-I housing to see if there is/are wire that is dislodged. I would thenvisually inspecteach wire for chafed insulation/cut section. It is a painstaking process but you only need to look around where the wire is close to another object. Or, as a last resort you can try spraying electrical contact cleaner on both sides of theOBD-I housing (with the ignition switch off). Speaking of cleaning, I would remove the ECUs and spray contact cleaner onto the female connections of the ECUs. When you remove the ECUs, disconnect the negative battery cable and wait 10-15 minutes before pulling them out, as they may still be powered.


JPN

 

the obd1 housing is basically the diagnostic port right?


Oh, and I did some further testing with the multimeter on the coil and spark wires. I used a standard digi multimeter set at 20k ohms, and these are the readings:

Coil Wire = 2.33
Bank1(longest) = 4.53
Bank2 = 4.46
Bank3 = 3.99
Bank4 = 4.24
Bank5(shortest)= 2.46

What does this mean?

 

Yes the OBD-I port is just a terminal to access the ECUs. It is a very handy system for us DYIers but is superseded by OBD-II, which requires a diagnostic tester. In your case, I would try OBD-II to retrieve possible codes.

As to the ignition coil, the specified Ωvalues are:

Primary: 0.5 - 1.5Ω (not in kΩ, plain 0.5 to 1.5 ohms)
Secondary: 8,000 - 9,000Ω (8K - 9K ohms)

These numbers may slightly vary IAW the ambient temp. If your DMM is in an automatic mode, you would see the unit (K-kilo, M-meg, etc...) on the LCD.

As toeach wire’s resistance specs, Iam still searching through the manual.


JPN

 

according to that spec, aren't my wires way off?

I tried an OBD2 readout yesterday, didn't throw out any codes.

 

I did not find the wire resistance specs in my manual. I know Haynes has them. Did you replace the wires with Bougicord?

No code? How humiliating. I am inclined to think that the problem is in the fuel control rather than the ignition. Fuel seems to be cutting off when you want the RPM to increase. I would check everything that is connected to the turbocharger. And the air filter is not 50-year old and blocking the induction passage, correct?

Refer to some RFs. BTW, do you work at a Japanese restaurant? I used to see Japanese restaurants named Benihana in the States. You probably know that Benihana means red flower.


JPN

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Well i had gotten new bosch wires but they fell apart, and i put the originals that came with the car, they now have 94k on them, they both acted the same, but i don't know if the bosch were faulty or mediocre replacements, i heard newer bosch wires are made in the states, so i don't know if they follow the same standards.

hooked up obd2 scanner, didn't show anything so i thought the port wasn't hooked up, so i disconnected the air mass sensor and it threw a code on the scanner, so we knew it worked and there were no other codes in memory.

check the hoses and stuff on the turbo? I have checked all those, all tight and no leaks. Air filter has less than 6k on it. Behavior is similar to the stock airbox, just louder turbo.

Lol, people always ask me if i worked at benihana, never did. Just had this name from highschool.

 

Yes I knew you have checked all vacuum/induction hoses & replaced many of them, but I wanted to double check to see if there was something that slipped away. However I doubt and I believe you did go after every hose.

When you replaced the ECU with a known good unit, did you replace the fuel control ECU, or the ignition ECU? I watched your vid and the RPM does drop all of a sudden.

Some Bosch products are made in the States, whereas others are made in their homeland; Germany. I do not believe the Boschwires were of poor quality, but Volvos still want to be treated with OEM and in the case of plug wires it is Bougicord; French. 94K is well past the recommended replacement interval IAW the mfg (of course they make the intervals shorter, but I myself do the wires at every 60,000-70,000mls).

At this point all I can say is that you pay some $$$ for Tech to fly to your place. I wonder if there is a fault in the turbocharger itself, though it seems working. If you still have Bosch coppers, I would swap them with genuine Volvo plugs. In the meantime, I hope other experts kick in to help you.

I am going back to studying but will be back in a few hours. Japanese time is approx the opposite as compared to the States’; when it is daytime in the States, it is the night time in Japan or vise-versa.

P.S: I have never seen a restaurant in Japan whose name was Benihana. Those in the States must be run by non-Japanese.


JPN

 

Yeah i've checked and double checked every hose

My car only has 1 ecu for both fuel and ignition, i tested another known working stock ecu.

I think i'll get some new bougicords. I downloaded the haynes manual and all it shows is the info you typed up about the secondary and primary values.

I think i may have to take it to a tech. I have the NGK BKR7E's right now, acted the same as the Bosch FR7DC that i was running.

Benihana over here is a chain, yeah i think they are non-Japanese.

 

What is the plug gap at?
Yes I would also get the Bougicord wires.

 

Also on the OBDI problem flip the connections over and inspect the wiring from the back side. The rubber they put on the end of the wires around the therminals tend to fall apart and the wires will back out.

 

the plug gap is around .022 right now, i've tried .028 and 0.24 as well. I think i will order some bougicords tonight.

well i don't think its the connections on the obd1 port because that socket is getting full power(10v), but i'm gonna check them anyway and see where those wires lead to and check the connection on the other side as well.

 

I just rechecking the turbo inlet blade. When i try to wiggle the blade, it barely moves less than 1mm side to side(doesn't hit the housing at all), and there is no forward to back movement, so that means thats good i guess.

I'm gonna order some new wires from ipd tonight, anyone know how fast their shipping is?

 

Hey guys, i've been doing some research about the A6 bank not working, and this is what i found.

This is from this forum written by billofdurham:

Terminal A6 is only used on cars fitted with the LH 3.2-Jetronic engine management system and the EZ-129K ignition system. It actually reads codes from that ignition system.

Engine types are B5204S, B5234S and in some countries B5254S.

So i'm thinking its not supposed to work then? Anybody have a 95 that can double check?

 

My 1994 Turbo T5 (B5234T) was fitted with Motronic 4.3. This engine only has 2 ECUs; one for the engine control (fuel & ignition combined?) and the other for TCM (Tech, am I wrong?).


JPN

 

with the Motronic 4.3, you only have the tranny ecu, and the ignition and fuel are in 1. But it seems like the Bank A socket 6 isn't supposed to be working with 4.3, only 3.2 that has separate ignition and fuel comps, anybody else can confirm?

 

Mine only has A2.A1 is for transmission A2 is engine. But I don't have A6.

 

Here are the the results of the ignition tests I ran.

As to the ignition coil, the specified Ωvalues are:

Primary: 0.5 - 1.5Ω (not in kΩ, plain 0.5 to 1.5 ohms) (mine tested out to 0.8ohms)
Secondary: 8,000 - 9,000Ω (8K - 9K ohms) (mine came out to 7880 ohms (7.88k) - does this mean it's getting weak and should be replaced? I also tested it while it was still hooked up to the car, but the battery was disconnected, should i take it out completely and check it? It was also cold when i tested, didn't test it after the car was warmed up.

And here are my results of the spark wires

Factory specs:
coil to distr 1.9-2.9k mine = 2.46k
cyl1 3.64-5.46k mine = 4.53k
cyl2 3.24-4.86k mine = 4.46k
cyl3 2.61-3.93k mine = 3.99k Out of spec
cyl4 2.29-3.45k mine = 4.24k Out of spec
cyl5 1.81-2.73k mine = 2.45k

 

I would say the coil looks weak as well. With it running at night rev it up and look right at the coil I will almost bet you will see blue sparks jumping from the black area to the bracket.

 

I already ordered some new wires, they are on the way. but as far as 2 of the wires being out of spec and the coil being lower than spec, could these cause the problems i'm having with the car?