As stated above my batt on my wagon keeps going dead about every 3 days I think it might be the wire that runs from the alt to the batt but I installed some 2 gauge wire from alt to batt just in case it was that but the battery still dies anyone have any ideas on what it could be??? I'm a noob not a mechanic at all but want to learn to do my own work any help would be greatly appreciated

 

The most common battery drain is the glove compartment light. Toss your phone in there and do a short video recording with the compartment closed and see if that light stays on. If so, you can pull the bulb or do something to get it to go off.

You should also read the new 850 thread and there is a battery drain thread in the DIY thread.

 

I will try the video today also another question I have noticed that on my digital display the clock stays on 24/7 is that normal or could that be what is causing it?

I will be sure to read the DIY section

 

Mine used to do it quite often if I didn't drive it daily. I'm not sure what fixed it but I think I might have been closing the rear hatch but not insuring it latched fully. I think it left the cargo light on and you don't notice it during the day.
I make sure it's fully latched now but giving it a little tug after closing. Likely needs an adjustment but I'm surprised how often I think it's closed and it's still loose. I replaced the cargo light with a LED that can go for days without draining the battery. Something worked because it's not happening anymore.

 

The digital clock stays on and pulls so little power that it'll take 12 years to drain the battery.

 

I replaced all my interior courtesy lights with LEDs but the cargo was the easiest as it just dropped in place.
The hard part was prying the light out. It's hard to get the screwdriver on the metal retaining clip. It feels like the plastic is going to break at any second.

 

Can you tell me where you got all your LED lights

Ok well I did the DIY battery drain and it narrowed down to the #33 fuse the description says DIAGNOSTIC UNIT,(POWER SEATS), BEAN WIDTH ADJUSTMENT), (REAR WIPER/WASHER) can anyone tell me what I can do to narrow it down and fix it? Sorry for being a noob but I do appreciate the help

 

You can reach under the seats and disconnect the connector and then recheck to see if it's cured your draw.Has it rained in your area lately ?? Does your rear windshield wiper work ??
If it doesn't or it moves really slow it might be badly corroded and not returning to park and so staying on.
To find out you'd have to pull the trim off the back hatch and feel the motor. If it's hot, it hasn't parked and it's still "on" even if you don't see it moving and have the switch at the wheel in the off position.
Bad thing is to pull the trim off the door you almost always break some of the retainers.

If all else fails you can always do what Honda owners do

 

Hahah I used to own a Honda I disconnected the seats it i didn't solve my problem I also took the back molding off and disconnected everything back their it still dint solve my problem and you are very correct I did break about 3 clips and I will feel the motor tomorrow morning that I did not do.

 

The LEDs were not just plug in. I bought cheap festoon style bulbs from ebay. Festoon is the round long style bulb with a pointy connector at each end. That cargo light was the only one that just dropped in. The others I modified by soldering wires to the two ends and then wiring them in. It's delicate work to mate the wire to the end without desoldering the end from the board.
The front dome light was the best. I can actually see and read something with those lights now.
Next time or as these burn out (they were cheap 10ea for 12 or 15 bucks) I'd buy better bulbs with the adapters. The picture of the package with the adapters has a regular incandescent bulb in there the LED was already installed when I thought to get a shot of the package.
Main thing is to measure the size. The dome and floor lights at the bottom of the dash I used the same as for that back bulb and the dome lights are on solid wire. The solid wire is what allowed me to position them more centered over the lens as stranded wired wouldn't be form-able.
The floor lights had to be angled as they were just a hair too big to fit correctly.
If you buy a panel with the adapters you'll save yourself a ton of work.
For the lights over the back doors I did need to get a smaller panel of lights. Those I bought with the bulb adapters as I couldn't find any way to wire into it and still retain the function of the switch. It's a pain trying to get that bulb out and the adapter base in. These bulb kits would also fit fine into the under dash lights.
I couldn't find the suppliers I purchased them from but I've used superbrightleds for most of my recent purchases.

 

With the bulbs installed.
It's a big enough difference people notice at night even with tinted windows.

 

Did you ever try to see if the light in the glove box was on?

 

Yeah I went to go do that but turns out I don't have a light in the glove box

 

ok patience and being amazing ( just kidding) helped me finally find the problem so im pretty sure I fixed it but I didn't at the same time some how one of the connectors on the passenger side seat stopped working

so some one took a bridge wire and jumped between 2 slots which left the seat pulling power at all times I went back and started all over and went step by step on trouble shooting..

When I noticed tape going around the plastic of one of the connectors so I took off the tape and found the bridge wire I removed it and checked the DMM I went from 0.87 to 0.07 so a little high but I think based on what I have read the battery will now be fine. The down side is my passenger seat will not move so I have to order the connector and replace that next.. hopefully the pictures help show what I am saying..

I appreciate all the input and suggestions on where to check I received it was a help and it ultimately led to me finding what I think the problem was. So thank you to the people who offered guidance

 

Wasn't that special