Dear Volvo forum members,
I am running into a quite annoying issue with the engine oil plug on my 1997 Volvo 855R. I am wondering if anyone can suggest a different approach as so far nothing worked for me. The drain plug is leaking and it seems there is nothing I can do to stop it. The existing plug and gasket is the third one I have installed to mitigate this issue. Each time, new gasket and/or crash washer and new plug. The seat on the oil pan has been cleaned very well each time. Any help is greatly appreciated, thank you!

 

maybe an oversized plug would work

 

Are the threads original and holding (not stripped) or did someone install a heli-coil and not install it straight? Next time you change the oil take a hi-res pic of the threads and post it here.

 

May seem like a dumb question.. but are you sure it's the drain plug?

The turbo drain line runs above the drain plug, and I mistook a leak from the turbo drain line as a drain plug leak.

The gaskets on the turbo drain line dry out over time, and leak, especially if you park on an incline. Parts to fix are inexpensive and it's not a bad job at all..

 

thank you I will try the oversize plug this weekend

 

I check the treads and they are in good shape, I will take a hi res pic and post it here...thank you so much for All your replies, greatly appreciated.

 

So..the turbo lines are not leaking yet , I will check it again and take some pics. I have done all the upper seals, trap and hoses, main rear seal and oil cooler lines transmission and engine. distributor, wires and alternator are going in next week, yet another opportunity to take more pics. Thank you All for helping me here.....

 

Sorry to confuse you but I wouldn't recommend the over sized plug. If the plug you have is tightening up then the only benefit of an over sized plug would be to try and straighten out the threads as it will be cutting new ones in your aluminum pan. Have you checked that plug 360 degrees to see if the gap is equal all the way around ?? The threads are aluminum so you need to be cautious but if you're getting it "tight" there isn't much benefit to a different plug. It also presents the problem you might not get the over sized plug started straight and then you have trouble.
After all the leak isn't from the fit of the threads it's the seal of the plugs head to the gasket to the surface of the pan.

Have you tried to use a nylon gasket as they will deform easier and will conform more than the aluminum one ??
Have you cleaned the area really well and you're sure it's the plug ?? Not dripping down from above or ....
No nick in the oil pans surface where the gasket sits, no abnormality on the underside of the plug where it mates to the gasket ??

 

Are you torquing the plug down tight enough?

 

Hi Kiss4afrog,
thank you so much for your message.
the plug you are showing in the picture is actually the one I have just installed. one thing I have not tried is to use a nylon gasket....great tip.
in regards of the 360 inspection, I have cleaned the area and applied a colored product (IES-43) we use on troubleshooting high pressure compressors. I then cut a gasket out of a thick paper installed said gasket and tight the plug to see which area was not in contact with the oil pan. it appears that the integrity of the tread is good and the plug lands evenly on the oil pan seat. I have been traveling a lot this week, however this weekend I will have an opportunity to take hi res pictures and posted here.
thank you for taking the time to write me back, greatly appreciated!

 

Hi rspi,
thank you for your reply!
this is something that I am still on the fence, I think I did, 25 ft-lb. What are you recommending 25-30 ft-lb or the 5:30 - 7 rule?

thank you greatly appreciated!

 

What happened to the original drain plug? I've done thousands of oil changes on Volvos with the aluminum pan and I've never seen the stock drain plug with a new washer leak, except for one where another shop damaged the pan. The torque isn't that critical. If it's tightened by hand and then given an extra little crank with the wrench, it's fine.

 

What he said. Don't think you really need to or would be benefited pulling out a torque wrench and I don't know anyone who does or needs to. It's just that it's aluminum so you don't want to try and cure a leak with more force
Lug nuts, every time ... drain plug, never.

The fact that you've done so much already pretty much assures me you're tightening it down enough and it's something with the surfaces of the pan or plug or you just haven't seen something above it leaking down.
Hopefully you'll get a chance to try a nylon gasket and it will seal it up.

18mm or 3/4" Dorman Part # 097-004 or 097-004.1

 

please tell me your not traveling far in this car…

 

A drain plug drip is nothing more than a small mess in your parking spot. I would drive 100,000 miles with an oil pan bolt drip. Never really bothered me. Heck, my 740 GLE probably got 4 new washers in 400,000 miles. As long as the level is fine, what is a few drops overnight.

I don't think I started replacing oil drain plug bolts until I got into a nice house with a nice clean garage. Got tired of cleaning the garage floor of the few spots here and there. I think that was around 2008. Now I replace them all the time.

I believe the book says 17 or 18 FT LBS. I usually do what ES6T does, snug it down, then bump it. I asked about torque because some don't get close. I think 25 is very tight and at that you should not have any leaks. You can try a new washer and back it down to 18 FT LBS to see if it does better with less torque.

I pulled a bolt out of an 850 the other day and boy I tell you, I had to brace myself on the ground and wheel to break it loose. The person before me must have torqued it close to what people do lug nuts because I had to put a breaker on my ratchet. To be honest with you, I think that bolt broke my ratchet. I was afraid to put the bolt back in. I really hope the threads are not damaged on that car. Once damaged, there is not much options for going back. Oil pan replacements are a pain and the previous guy won't take responsibility once someone else pulls the bolt (if they accept the blame before then).

 

Hello and thank you so much for your message!
I have the previous one, I will upload some hi res pics tomorrow. also, looking above the plug and under the intake manifold. thank you for pointing out the torque factor as well.

.....not having a good week, the v70r i have just shot me a p0302 and p0422 code.

 

thank you so much RSPI, I will Exercise caution on all counts. unfortunately other stuff got in my way, the 99 v70r shot a p0302 and p0422 code yesterday. so this is on the plate as well.

 

Hi 97black850,

well...I do a little about 90 miles round-trip a day, I do alternate between the 97-850r, 99-v70r and 04-suburban. I do check all the oils once a week minimum.

thank you for your reply!

 

after all the expert advises I have received from All of You, i am starting to think I have something else going on under the intake manifold. I hope I can get on it in the morning and post some hi-res pics for everyone to look at. you probably seen my comments on the other replies, my 99-v70r shot a p0302 and p0422 code yesterday. so there is that as well to deal with .

thank you for your time and reply, greatly appreciated!

 

Hello Gdog, the attached pictures are from today. I will upload each one separately in my garage as well. thank you!