another pcv thread..sorry
 

ok i was bored last weekend and started taking my car apart.i pulled off my flametrap and it was completely clogged so i changed it. but when putting in the new one i saw the hose was also completely clogged.so was it a waste to change this w/o doing the whole pcv? im holding off on that because i need to purchase the parts,torque wrench,and haynes(anything else?)=$$$. And dont have car ramps or a real place to work on the car other than parking lot(i live in an apartment).Would it be better for me to take it to a shop?how much would the dealership charge? ANY thoughts welcome.thanks guys

Yes you need to do the entire thing to make sure all is good.
Buy the kit from FCPgroton.com. Make sure it comes with an intake manifold gasket.

It depends on how touchy your landlord is. I've had some landlords in the past that put up with me shoving a new transmission in my '69 AMX and others that had a fit if I checked the air pressure on the tires. You know your situation better than any of us. I have never used a torque wrench doing a PCV change. By the time you use the swivel socket the torque wrench readings don't mean much anyway. The full kits at FCP are fairly cheap but they have some stuff that you won't use and then there are other things that you will need.

The kit is shipped with Oetiker clamps that use a special crimp tool. I picked up the tool at Advance Auto parts for around $10.00. Even with the tool there are places where you just can't get to the clamps to crimp them with the cheapy tool so you will also need an assortment of worm type hose clamps - from 3/8" to 1".

I'm sure Tech can give you an idea as to what a shop would charge - I avoid the shops myself unless it involves an alignment or tires.

The writeups that are floating around on the various boards are more valuable than the Haynes on the PCV although you should have a Haynes manual anyway.

Deal with it one way or the other, sooner rather than later, before you blow the rear main seal on the motor. The rear main seal is cheap, the labor isn't.

...Lee

thanks tech and lee..im going to order the kit..i'll find a way to do it on my own.i just bought the car in december so how can i tell if the rear main seal isnt already blown? thanks again and WISH ME LUCK!!!!!

If the rear main is blown oil will be leaking from between the motor and transmission on the bottom.

I think at a shop it will be around $300.00 or so. But I never really keep track of the prices. I have to much other stuff I need to remember.

thanks again tech i just sent an email to scott over at fcp asking if i can order the kit w.o the flametrap. im excited/scared to tackle this job but will post with how it went.I have 1 last question...is it absolutely necessary to put the car on ramps?

I've never put the car on ramps to do a PCV job. There is no reason to do that since it all comes out from the top.

My best tip for you is that the lower bolts on the intake manifold don't need to come all of the way out, just loosen them about half way. The bottom of the intake manifold is slotted and it will simply lift off. The upper bolts do need to be removed.

The farthest bolt on the bottom side, behind the power steering pump, is a Pri(k to get to. I use an additional extension, without a swivel joint, and thread it through the power steering lines to get to that one. You can't see it but you can feel it with your hand.

...Lee

http://www.lakesidedp.com/uploadpics/pcv/


JPN

ok.the reason i asked about the ramps was because of the link JPN posted..but if i dont need them better for me.

thanks guys

If you plan to do much of the maintenance yourself, a pair of ramps would be a great investment, otherwise skip them.

Clean everything while you are in there whilst the intake manifold is out, and do it right the first time (you don't want to dig in there twice).


JPN

The only reason to have the car on ramps is to get under it to unscrew 2 bolts that are holding the manifold and the oil dipstick in place. But those 2 bolts can be managed from the top byt just feeling them with your hands. Usually, its just the first half turn and then you should be able to loosen them with your fingers.
Also, Most of the links mention removing the injector/fuel rail but I managed to just remove the inlet and return gas lines and swivel the manifold to the left (battery side) of the car with the throtle body still connected to it.
This saves some work and possibilities of loosing injector seals and O-rings.

So i ordered it already. $130 w/o flametrap.Not bad.Is there anything else i should look for while in there?I have no service records for this car.and odometer reads 105,000 but its been broken for sometime so actual mileage is unknown.I also plan on cleaning the throttle body.I heard about a TB mod where i can just install a 960 plate in there w/o that chunk of plastic on it for better performance.Thoughts? thanks guys

A quote from Mathew's Volvo Site (MVS) for getting actual miles form the ECU:

As long as you have the DTC boxes up under the hood ('93-'95).

1. Switch ignition on

2. Connect the fly wire to socket - A7

3. Push button 5 times

4. When LED comes on and stays on, enter code 1-1-1 as follows:
- press the button once when LED is still on
- wait for LED to go out and come on again
- press the button once when LED is still on
- wait for LED to go out and come on again
- press the button once when LED is still on
- read off response, which will be the last three digits of the odometer miles

5. Repeat steps #3-4, but enter code 1-1-2 (that is, press the button twice on the last step); read off the response, which will be the first three digits of the odometer miles. If you have less than 100,000 miles, the first digit will read as 10 blinks.

And I would get that odo gear fixed; I believe Moderator JimKW has a sticky post.


JPN

thanks jpn but i have a 96'.gotta get it scanned.