Axle seal question
I replaced my passenger side CV axle due to a torn boot on the outer joint. I replaced the axle seal on the transmission due to the age of it and since I already had the axle out. Is it really just a matter of putting it in flush with the transmission? I ask this because mine is leaking right at the axle seal. No RTV sealant or anything else. I have read were they say to get the seal wet with a little bit of trans fluid and then just tap it in (which I did).
Kinda wish I went the route of if it isn't broken, don't fix it. I will also add that it says to put 89 foot-pounds of torque and then an additional 120 degrees on the axle nut, as to which I could only torque it then put only about 40 degrees extra on the nut. Curious to see if anyone has any input on that. I made sure I got a re manufactured Volvo axle, no aftermarket. |
I did a similar job on an Audi and there was a press tool to line it up right (the Audi's was recessed) - but if you noticed, the seal has ribs that hold in the fluid.. Wetting lets it slide in easily...
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I just used my huge 36mm socket and took a mallet to it and tapped it in flush with the trans case. Was wondering if I missed something because it is leaking from the new axle seal...
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Drivers side Axle will have a circlip and will snap in with a click.
Passenger side is held in by the bearing bolted to the block. It just slips in and done. If the seal is pressed in too far it can miss or fall off the end of the axle thus will leak. The seal should be just inside the case, dont push it all the way back. |
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