My wife was driving the car yesterday and it suddenly died and won't restart. When I turn the key all the warning lights come on and the engine will crank but it will not start. About 6 months ago I put in a new main relay and sub relay and a new fuel pump. Recently I have been smelling fuel after I park the car.
Any suggestions where to start looking would greatly be appreciated.

 

When you turn the key it's normal for all the lights to come on. In fact that's a way to test is all the bulbs are good.

Since it died while running something failed and it's likely missing fuel or spark. The fuel smell may or may not be related to this failure so I'd start with either finding out if you have fuel pressure at the rail or spark.

To check for spark you can pull the lead to the distributor and set it near a metal ground (1/8-1/4) and see if it jumps.

For fuel you should have it quit as possible and turn the key to "ON". You should hear the fuel pump cycle on for a couple seconds, a buzzing. If you have the buzzing you should pickup a fuel pressure tester and screw it onto the schrader valve on the fuel rail to see if you have the proper pressure.

If it sounds "different" when you crank it there is always a chance you have a broken or slipped timing belt. If it's broken you need to pull the belt cover or the distributor cap to see if the belt or rotor is turning.

It's a place to start at least.

 

I replaced the timing belt about 3 months ago. I'll check the fuel pressure and spark this weekend, I hope since I don't have a covered place to work and it's pouring rain.

 

If you did the belt 3mo ago it's very unlikely it's the belt ... BUT ... even new parts go bad or you had an installation "opps" that finally surfaced. It would be the last thing to check but don't rule anything out you haven't checked.

If it's raining on you try to be happy it's not 8 degrees with 14 inches of snow on the ground. I'm in Minnesota.


When in Minnesota, always roll your windows up BEFORE the plow comes by

 

Check for codes.

 

OBD2 showed no codes but I'll check the others when it stops raining.
kiss4afrog, that looks just bad glad my windows are up even if it is only rain and not snow.

 

I had time to do some testing today and I am getting no codes but I connected a volt meter to the plug to the fuel pump and when I turn on the ignition I get 12 volts for about 2 or 3 seconds. This does not make sense and I'm thinking either the main relay or the secondary relay is bad. When they changed the relays just before I got the car I never saw where they were located, can anyone tell me where the relays are located.

 

Getting power to the fuel pump for a couple of seconds is normal. It's just enough to prime the system for starting and you wouldn't see a constant power supply to the pump until the engine builds RPM above cranking speed.
So your pump is likely ok. When you have it plugged in, can you hear it for those first two seconds ?? Have you checked spark yet ??

Here is a link:
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...p-relay-64044/

It may be marked on top, if it is it would be #103 on a turbo

 

I don't hear the pump but when I checked a second time I was getting voltage when I was cranking the engine. I need to get an angle adapter so I can hook up my fuel pressure gauge because there is not enough room to get it connected the way it is now.
I have not had a chance to check spark yet. I did check at the diagnostic blocks at the front of the car and when I checked at "#2" ,fuel and exhaust systems, it says all "no fault detected" but when I checked at "#6", engine electrical systems, I get nothing at all. I don't get a no fault or fault and when I press the test button the light doesn't even come on.
Could this be caused by a main relay? When the main and fuel pump relays were changed out they gave me the old ones and I can't find a relay that looks like what they called a main one. What they called a main relay was obviously mounted in the engine area considering how dirty it is. This relay has 4 round pins on the bottom and a mounting clip attached to it.

 

My buddy that is a Volvo dealership Tech warned me about a no start condition on my 850 that involved lack of fuel, would most likely be a failure of the fuel pump relay that is located below the fuse box in the cowl panel under the hood. You would have to take out the top section of the fuse box that contains the fuses, and the relays are located underneath. He told me they can be replaced easily, or even repaired if you are good with a soldering gun by solidifying the soldered components in the relay once it's opened up. He told me this is a very common problem on 850s. Remove the 4 torx screws on the corners of the fuse box and lift the fuse panel up to see the relays

 

The "main" relay is next to the cooling fan relay above the cooling fan attached under a black plastic "ledge" attached to the radiator support.

 

Check for spark. My guess would be that the ignition coil failed.

You can also check for fuel pressure by opening the valve and seeing if fuel comes out of the valve. A good squart means the pump and relay are working.

 

I'll check for spark. I never heard the pump run. When I pressed the schrader valve I didn't get much pressure. Is the any good reason why I get no red light when I tried to run codes on connection #6?

 

If I remember the wiring for the fuel pump the relay grounds the circuit like a horn circuit. Most horns have battery voltage present all the time and when you hit the horn button you supply a circuit to ground to complete the circuit.

If you're testing at the pump you may be "seeing" 12 volts but if the circuit isn't going to ground the pump will not kick on. Might be back looking at the relay after all.

 

You should check for fuel pressure within a few minutes of trying to start it. If it doesn't have pressure check the relay (jump the pump) and if the pump doesn't jump, you likely have a bad pump.

 

Get an adapter for your fuel pressure gauge. With a fuel pressure gauge and VOM you could have this diagnosed in ten minutes.

1. The fuel pump has a hard-wired ground; ck the ground (blk wire) connection at the pump for continuity to the car frame.
2. Ck for 12v on red wire a pump when cranking (think you already did that).
3. If #1 and #2 ck out, do you hear the pump run while 12v is applied to the pump? If yes, then ck pressure at the fuel rail; 43 psi is what it should be.

I suspect (from reading this thread so far) that the pump isn't running; possibly you're previous pump wiring job has gone awry or the pump failed again. Did you replace the pump with an aftermkt, Bosch, or used pump?

 

When I tested the voltage I connected to both terminals at the connector next to the fuel pump so the ground must be good. I have been fooled by that before.

 

I replaced the pump with one from AutoZone and it was a core that you put in the old housing. I did that because it was a lot cheaper. Maybe I got what I paid for and should have bought a better one.

 

I have one from Autozone too. It's sold as an Airtex but it was actually a reboxed Walbro and it was laser etched with their name and part number on it's case. Everyone's always talking about upgrading to a Walbro.
The pump should be covered under a one year warranty.

You can always get a bad new part no matter who made it but the chances of the pump going bad are not that likely.

 

New update. The fuel pump is not running and of course no fuel pressure. I had a friend turn on the ignition while I had my ear to the pump and no sound at all.