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So I bought a 1994 850 Wagon with a blown engine and lots of mile to replace my wifes rusting Suzuki Sidekick.
Figured since I'm a goodwrench master tech, I can handle this no problem. Swapping the bad engine = easy !
Before I installed the used engine I figured, what a great time to replace the timing belt,a practice in which I've always done. I've got a copy of the shop engine manual and it clearly showed the cam timing marks, However I can't find any markings on the crankshaft........O.K. line everything up an paint a dot on the top crankshaft tooth and block just in case something moves like I've always done. Turn the engine over several times and check all the marks---everything seems O.K.
Finish installing engine, Drive car, (GOES LIKE A BAT OUTTA HELL:)) Check engine light comes on, Check codes, Code for skipping cylinder ( Bad plug wire) Change wire from old blown engine,clear codes, Light comes back on with code 143 Front knock sensor signal .Did the following EXCEPT FOR step 2 WHERE IS THE CRANK TIMING MARK ? Is there a special tool for holding the crank in position(saw something on that when rebuilding complete engine)? Everything else is fine,even tried swapping knock sensors.

Code 1-4-3 (Front Knock Sensor Signal) &

Code 4-3-3 (Rear Knock Sensor Signal)

1) If fault is intermittent, check camshaft setting. See the

2.3L article in the ENGINES section. If camshaft setting is okay,

check all wiring and connectors for poor contact. If fault is

permanent, go to next step.

2) Turn ignition off. Check camshaft setting in relation to

crankshaft. Repair as necessary. If camshaft setting is okay, gain

access to knock sensor(s) by removing upper charge air cooler pipe and

engine cooling fan. To gain access to rear knock sensor also remove

intake manifold support bracket.

3) Ensure ignition is still off. Wait 2 minutes. Disconnect

knock sensor. Connect an ohmmeter between knock sensor connector

terminal No. 2 and ground. If ohmmeter reads about zero ohms, go to

step 5). If ohmmeter does not read about zero ohms, go to next step.

4) Ensure ignition is still off and knock sensor is

disconnected. Ensure ECM connector is making good electrical contact

and is connected securely to ECM. Connect an ohmmeter between knock

sensor connector terminal No. 2 and ground. If ohmmeter reads about

zero ohms, code was caused by poor contact in ECM connector. If

ohmmeter does not read about zero ohms, check wiring between knock

sensor connector terminal No. 2 and ECM connector terminal A17 for an

open circuit.

5) Ensure ignition is still off and knock sensor is

disconnected. Connect an ohmmeter between knock sensor connector

terminal No. 1 and ground. If ohmmeter reads about zero ohms, check

wiring between knock sensor connector terminal No. 1 and ECM connector

terminal A2 (Code 1-4-3) or terminal A30 (4-3-3) for short to ground.

If ohmmeter reads about one megohm, go to step 7). If ohmmeter reads

infinite resistance, go to next step.

6) Ensure ignition is still off and knock sensor is

disconnected. Ensure ECM connector terminals are free of resistance

and oxidation. Reconnect ECM. Connect an ohmmeter between knock sensor

connector terminal No. 1 and ground. If ohmmeter reads about one

megohm, code is caused by poor contact in ECM’s connector. If ohmmeter

does not read about one megohm, check wiring between knock sensor

connector terminal No. 1 and ECM terminal A2 (Code 1-4-3) or terminal

A30 (Code 4-3-3) for an open circuit.

7) Reconnect knock sensor(s). Start and warm up engine.

Increase engine speed to slightly greater than 3500 RPM. Use Volvo

Scan Tool (998-8686) to check knock sensor value. If knock sensor

value is 2-6 at speeds greater than 3500 RPM, source of code is poor

contact at knock sensor connector. If knock sensor value is not 2-6 at

speeds greater than 3500 RPM, test system using a new knock sensor.