Cold Shift Problem
 

I've been having this issue for some time, basically what happens is when the temp outside drops below freezing the transmission does not want to shift out of first gear, usually I have to put it into neutral and then back into drive to get it to upshift. When the temps above freezing it shifts perfect. Any ideas?

RE: Cold Shift Problem
 

This could be because of the PNP switch going south. the oil film inside the switch tends to freeze and act as a insulator on the contacts and make the transmission act funny. Try ratcheting your shifter from extreame positons about 10 times and this might help.

RE: Cold Shift Problem
 

Some recommendations:

- PNP sensor needs cleaning/replacing.
- Check fluid level/condition.
- Shift solenoid response slow due to freezing temp.
- Fluid temp sensor on the tranny may not be working right.
- Check Mode Selector position (winter-mode).
- Pull codes from TCM.

If the car drives fine after the engine/tranny warms up, I would drive it as is. However, if it still concerns/bothers you, try using synthetic ATF but make sure it is compatible with Dexron-III/Mercon. Some synthetic ATFs, though they say are compatible, seem to invite troubles. I myself would not use synthetic ATF in my 850.

Wait for others opinions as well.


JPN

RE: Cold Shift Problem
 

Well, I know it's not a winter mode thing, because mine doesn't have one. I did try the gearstick trick with no success. A temp sensor going bad would be the logical choice, I suppose I should see if there is a code strored? Would I pull that the same way as an engine code, or is it a different terminal?

RE: Cold Shift Problem
 

+1 for JPN. Pulling the codes for tranny is similar process other then that you use A1 port instead of A2. If the shifting gets normal after warmup, I wouldnt suspect sensor going bad. Shifter solenoid might be acting lazy in freezing temperatures and that is quite normal for any machine to misbehave when the working temperatures are not reached.

RE: Cold Shift Problem
 

Low or really old fluid can also cause this. I would try the simple stuff first. SInce it shifts fine after warming up, I think it is something simple

RE: Cold Shift Problem
 

I don't think it's fluid related, I replaced the fluid with synthetic when I bought the car a year ago, and the level is always right on when I check it.

850 automatic cold up shift issue.
 

Hi Jmana, I know it's many years later, but I'm having the exact same issue with my 1996 Volvo 850T5. Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I have new fluid and runs great when warm outside or after engine warms up.I have only 140,000 miles on this 23 year old car that keeps on running fantastic. I have no codes or flashing lights.
Thanks

I have the same issue. FOr me it was freezing temps on my t-5R. The solution was rowing the gears. She did come back to life. I believe the oil is the only issuer here... getting a oil change with Redline I think is the key.
I had to even turn her off, put her in gear, pump the clutch THEN start her just to get her going... I would reccommend a 15m warm up before even attempting to drive if you have this issue.

the shifter row trick is for the automatics to clean up the contacts on the PNP switch. Its a good idea to do this regularly on any older volvo even before the automatic acts up. Another common problem is the contacts to the TCM. On my S40, we fixed some shifting issues by removing and cleaning the contacts on the TCM. for the manual transmissions, doing a drain fill with some full synthetic like Redline MT90 is a good move (just make sure to use a GL4 product since some GL5s contain additives that can corrode the brass in the tranny's synchro rings. GL5 is ok for differentials). I'm not sure if you can also lube the shifter cables (lol yes I know you've been shopping for replacements) I did the same on an Audi Quattro (Redline GL4 in the manual transmission, GL5 in the rear diff) and it made a huge difference in the winter. As to automatics, the key is to use the correct fluid for your specific model. Many Aisin automatics use JWS3309 (same as Toyota T-IV) or DEX-III so best to consult the owners manual or google around. There are full synthetic ATFs that meet these specs but you'd need to research which products fit (bobistheoilguy.com is a good resource for this kind of info)