Recently got a 1997 T-5, did the PCV but still fails the glove test, likely because the lower channel could not be cleared from above and I need to drop the pan (FCP euro oil pan gasket kit I'm guessing?).

Following forum advice I did a compression test. Hot engine, if taking an hour to get everything undone counts as a hot engine still. 1-2,4-5 read at 155-160 dry and I did not see the need to test wet.

#3 however was at about 130-135, only a marginal increase wet, maybe the width of the needle. I'm assuming this means some sort of valve issue, either faces or seals. First off, is this low enough to be a major concern, and is there a proper way to diagnose? If it's as simple as the stem seals on that cylinder I might prioritize it. From what I understand this is likely also related to the high crankcase pressure yes?

My gut feel from other cars says this isn't a major concern, just wait until there's spare cash or another reason to pull the head, and there's a long shot that an Italian tuneup might clear up carbon and fix it

No CEL.

The higher priorities for me at the moment, and correct me if I'm wrong, in this rough order:
Addressing an oil cooler hose leak (cooler delete?)
Dropping the oil pan to clear the bottom PCV channel.
Fixing A/C Compressor rapid on/off (magnetic clutch re-shim?)

Still really happy I got one of these while I still can, and I'm looking forward to keeping it for life.

 

Valve stem seals have nothing to do with compression
And I agree on a 27 year old Volvo - don't spend any money on a valve job -
Don't delete your oil cooler, it is needed on the turbo cars.
On that engine if the low side ac pressure is low (caused by a leak) the low pressure cut off switch will/can make the clutch cycle. (you could easily use a paper clip and bypass the switch to verify)

 

Hi all, I've had an irregular SES light/P0303 code (chamber #3 failure to fire) for a couple of months. Meddling with the attachments/wires/curls generally made it disappear so I figured it was the start. I put in new wires and fittings seven days prior, however the code returned following 5 days so I at last actually look at the pressure. I took the information OldNuc has suggested in different strings. It's genuinely awful: Chilly test: Cyl PSI #times motor started to get to max PSI #1 210 (5) #2 210 (5) #3 60 (4) #4 195 (5).



192.168.100.1 192.168.1.1

 

the P0303 is a misfire code - which can be caused by compression, fuel mix (say a bad injector), plug/wire/cap. As to compression a 10% difference shouldn't make a huge difference but I'm curious what happens on #3 with a warm engine when you do a dry compression test followed by a wet compression test (to determine if its rings vs valve). One thing you may try also is to swap injectors - say switch #2 and #3's injectors to see if that moves the misfire code. You can also do a stage 0 tune up - new plugs (use OEM or old school copper core for the T's), new wires (Ive seen corrosion inside a boot on what looked like a perfectly good wire), rotor and cap which may help just enough to keep the misfire code under control.