ECC 2 lights blinking, have codes..interpretation?
#1
ECC 2 lights blinking, have codes..interpretation?
I have the ecc lights blinking and so I pulled the codes and the are as follows:
135
325
414
417......interpretations of whats wrong and how to fix it?
My ac hasn't worked and still doesn't. I flip the ac switch and there is no click of the clutch on the compressor or and cycling.
Would these codes stop the ac compressor from turning on?
135
325
414
417......interpretations of whats wrong and how to fix it?
My ac hasn't worked and still doesn't. I flip the ac switch and there is no click of the clutch on the compressor or and cycling.
Would these codes stop the ac compressor from turning on?
#2
#3
Has the AC ever worked ??
Clear the codes until it flashes a 1-1-1 back at you.
For the #414 take a can of compressed air and blow out the temperature sensor fans. The sensor fans are located directly above (behind) the grab bars above the doors. Remove the grab bars and the sensor grills, use some compressed air to blow all of the lint out of them and give them a shot of oil. They will normally come back to life.
135 No signal from engine coolant temperature sensor
Possible cause the sensor failed, the connector is loose and or dirty or a lead may have been pinched or cut.
325 Recirculation damper motor active too long
414 Driver’s side interior temperature sensor inlet fan seized
417 Passenger’s side interior temperature inlet fan seized
Photo is the coolant temp sensor and the coolant temp sensor installed in the thermostat housing just under the upper hose.
Clear the codes until it flashes a 1-1-1 back at you.
For the #414 take a can of compressed air and blow out the temperature sensor fans. The sensor fans are located directly above (behind) the grab bars above the doors. Remove the grab bars and the sensor grills, use some compressed air to blow all of the lint out of them and give them a shot of oil. They will normally come back to life.
135 No signal from engine coolant temperature sensor
Possible cause the sensor failed, the connector is loose and or dirty or a lead may have been pinched or cut.
325 Recirculation damper motor active too long
414 Driver’s side interior temperature sensor inlet fan seized
417 Passenger’s side interior temperature inlet fan seized
Photo is the coolant temp sensor and the coolant temp sensor installed in the thermostat housing just under the upper hose.
Last edited by Kiss4aFrog; 12-17-2012 at 12:02 AM.
#5
#6
Yes it worked great about 2 years a go and all the sudden stopped working. Every time I flip the ac switch I hear no engagement of the compressor clutch. No cycling either.
I'm going to work on those two side sensors and I think the coolant sensor had coolant spilled on it durring my recent radiator swap. But if the sensor is bad, why is my dash displaying a temp and it gradually rises to half way like normal in about 3 to 4 min from cold.
What do I do about the recirculating ac damper motor being open too long? Is it easily acess able?
I'm going to work on those two side sensors and I think the coolant sensor had coolant spilled on it durring my recent radiator swap. But if the sensor is bad, why is my dash displaying a temp and it gradually rises to half way like normal in about 3 to 4 min from cold.
What do I do about the recirculating ac damper motor being open too long? Is it easily acess able?
#8
Well, I'd say you need to do some of the leg work and google your codes and them google different key words from the trouble codes. Matthews Volvo site and Volvospeed are two good resources to search.
If it's the motor that is across from the blower motor that shaft is know to split. The motors rotational output is with a hollow shaft that a metal shaft from the blend door slips into. It gets brittle with age and or something causes the door to bind and the plastic splits allowing the shaft to rotate freely inside it. The motor is working great but it's not moving the door. Maybe ??
If it's the motor that is across from the blower motor that shaft is know to split. The motors rotational output is with a hollow shaft that a metal shaft from the blend door slips into. It gets brittle with age and or something causes the door to bind and the plastic splits allowing the shaft to rotate freely inside it. The motor is working great but it's not moving the door. Maybe ??
#9
If that shaft is split ,,, this is one way to fix that.
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=1&t=18514
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=1&t=18514
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